Leaking Fuel Tank

Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:38 pm

I need advice on how to repair a leaking fuel tank. I did not build my Rebel
and the builder is no longer in the area but I do have the construction
manual. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Jim Stevens
C-IFXO
Surrey, B.C.

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:38 pm

Jim,

Most builders cut 2 or 3 inspection holes in the offending tank. After it's
open you can stick your hand inside and clean up the area, then re-Proseal.
Try pressurizing the tank and brush with soapy water, if you don't already
know where the leak(s) is. Be careful if you have had gas in the tank already.

My tank, when pressure tested, leaked at the rear top seam and not the
rivets, so I cut my inspection holes in the bottom skin, in the bays aft of
the tank and sealed the seam(s) from the outside of the tank (inside the
wing). Clean everything up well with MEK before applying new Proseal.

The original builder tried to seal the leak in my tank with Randolph tank
sealant. This is an option although some builders don't like it (the leak
must be small for this to work). Some tank sealant will dissolve due to the
alcohol in gas. I have soaked a piece of aluminum with the tank sealant on it
in a jar of alcohol gas for over a year and see no affect. I pull it out
every few months and inspect it. Your call.

Bruce G 357R

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Charles Bailey · Post by **Charles Bailey** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:38 pm

Jim,
I have S/N 176 and at that time the tanks used std. Avex Rivets, Not the
"Tank Rivets" that are now used in the fuel tanks. I had some rivets that
weeped from the mandrel hole. (look like weeping around the rivet on the
skin) I used thinned Randolph Sloshing Sealer # 912 (Alcohol resistant)
on a toothpick to fill the mandrel hole. It dries to an off white (yellow)
color. $18.95 from Aircraft Spruce. It may take several tries to fill each
hole. Pro Seal can be used if you have, dries dark. gray.

Chuck,
R176 N225PC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stevens" <jimthepilot@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: Leaking Fuel Tank

I need advice on how to repair a leaking fuel tank. I did not build my

Rebel

and the builder is no longer in the area but I do have the construction
manual. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Jim Stevens
C-IFXO
Surrey, B.C.

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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:38 pm

Hi Jim !

It's an ultralight ! Do you have the 912, or a Lycoming ??
If you can tell us where it's leaking, there are several 'well-proven' (?)
methods to fix it. Don't use "sloshing" liquids, if you can
possibly avoid it - there have been numerous cases of the stuff
peeling off & clogging filters & lines !

It may be possible to seal it with ProSeal without even cutting
inspection covers, depending on where it's leaking. Is it just
a few rivets, or along the top rear seam, or at a stringer ??
Some of these can be sealed from outside the tank. There is a
thinner ProSeal that is suitable for brushing, that works well
for repairing small leaks. I think the number was mentioned recently
in the archives - last few months . You can search the archives
by keyword "ProSeal" or "tank" ...

If you're not sure of the location, you can try pressurizing
(gently - just 1 psi will do !) the tank, and brushing the seams
with soapy water & looking for bubbles.

Let us know, and we'll try to give a more detailed suggestion.

....bobp

---------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 10:07 PM 1/26/02 -0800, you wrote:

I need advice on how to repair a leaking fuel tank. I did not build my Rebel
and the builder is no longer in the area but I do have the construction
manual. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Jim Stevens
C-IFXO
Surrey, B.C.

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Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Hi Bob,
Thanks for your quick response. My Rebel is an ultralight with a 912
engine.

I don't know exactly where the leaks are but I can tell you this much, it
doesn't leak at the top of the tank, but it weeps in several places around
many of the rivets at the bottom of the tank and just last fall it really
began to leak badly at the wing root.

I was told by the previous owner that the weeping at the bottom of the tank
was caused by putting Mohawk fuel into the tank which damaged the ProSeal.

I am currently on a winter holiday in Arizona and will return to Surrey at
the end of March where the plane is and this tank project is my priority
this spring. I am not very far from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty so I can
easily acquire any materials by courier that I may need for this repair.

Any details you can provide on pressurizing the tank would be appreciated.

Jim Stevens
C-IFXO, Serial # 097

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Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Hi Chuck,
Thanks for your prompt response. I have S/N 097 which use Avex rivets in
the tanks and much of the weeping is on the bottom of the tank however last
fall the tank began to leak bady near the wing root. This spring my priority
is to fix this tank.

Thanks again for your comments.

Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Bailey <baileyca2@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: January 27, 2002 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank

Jim,
I have S/N 176 and at that time the tanks used std. Avex Rivets, Not the
"Tank Rivets" that are now used in the fuel tanks. I had some rivets that
weeped from the mandrel hole. (look like weeping around the rivet on the
skin) I used thinned Randolph Sloshing Sealer # 912 (Alcohol resistant)
on a toothpick to fill the mandrel hole. It dries to an off white

(yellow)

color. $18.95 from Aircraft Spruce. It may take several tries to fill

each

hole. Pro Seal can be used if you have, dries dark. gray.

Chuck,
R176 N225PC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Stevens" <jimthepilot@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: Leaking Fuel Tank

I need advice on how to repair a leaking fuel tank. I did not build my
Rebel
and the builder is no longer in the area but I do have the construction
manual. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.

Jim Stevens
C-IFXO
Surrey, B.C.

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LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

In a message dated 1/28/02 8:17:31 AM Central Standard Time, jimthepilot@hotmail.com writes:

I was told by the previous owner that the weeping at the bottom of the tank
was caused by putting Mohawk fuel into the tank which damaged the ProSeal

JIM
From all I've read MEK is supposed to be the only thing to effect Pro-Seal. Gas, aero or auto and their additives aren't supposed to bother the stuff. Was you're tank sloshed previously?
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D

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Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Hi Bruce,
Thanks for your prompt response.

Since I'm not a builder could you please provide details on cutting and
sealing inspection holes in case I decide to go this route.

Also I'm not familiar with MEK and pressurizing the tank.

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@cs.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: January 27, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank

Jim,

Most builders cut 2 or 3 inspection holes in the offending tank. After

it's

open you can stick your hand inside and clean up the area, then

re-Proseal.

Try pressurizing the tank and brush with soapy water, if you don't already
know where the leak(s) is. Be careful if you have had gas in the tank

already.

My tank, when pressure tested, leaked at the rear top seam and not the
rivets, so I cut my inspection holes in the bottom skin, in the bays aft

of

the tank and sealed the seam(s) from the outside of the tank (inside the
wing). Clean everything up well with MEK before applying new Proseal.

The original builder tried to seal the leak in my tank with Randolph tank
sealant. This is an option although some builders don't like it (the leak
must be small for this to work). Some tank sealant will dissolve due to

the

alcohol in gas. I have soaked a piece of aluminum with the tank sealant on

it

in a jar of alcohol gas for over a year and see no affect. I pull it out
every few months and inspect it. Your call.

Bruce G 357R

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Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Another method I have seen done with success is to put a lite vacume on the filler cap and use ether sloshing compound or thinned proseal applied to the areas that leak. It will draw it in. But you must be very carefull as to much vacume could crush the tank.

Bruce in Oregon

Hi Bruce,
Thanks for your prompt response.

Since I'm not a builder could you please provide details on cutting and
sealing inspection holes in case I decide to go this route.

Also I'm not familiar with MEK and pressurizing the tank.

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@cs.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: January 27, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank

Jim,

Most builders cut 2 or 3 inspection holes in the offending tank. After
it's
open you can stick your hand inside and clean up the area, then
re-Proseal.
Try pressurizing the tank and brush with soapy water, if you don't already
know where the leak(s) is. Be careful if you have had gas in the tank
already.
My tank, when pressure tested, leaked at the rear top seam and not the
rivets, so I cut my inspection holes in the bottom skin, in the bays aft
of
the tank and sealed the seam(s) from the outside of the tank (inside the
wing). Clean everything up well with MEK before applying new Proseal.

The original builder tried to seal the leak in my tank with Randolph tank
sealant. This is an option although some builders don't like it (the leak
must be small for this to work). Some tank sealant will dissolve due to
the
alcohol in gas. I have soaked a piece of aluminum with the tank sealant on
it
in a jar of alcohol gas for over a year and see no affect. I pull it out
every few months and inspect it. Your call.

Bruce G 357R

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Jim,

There are many different ways to cut inspection holes and use Pro Seal (you
can get Pro Seal from Aircraft Spruce, MEK at any hardware) and every builder
seems to have a different method.

I used a two headed fly wheel circle cutter to cut inspection holes (bought
at Harbor Freight) because you can use it free hand with a drill. Practice on
some scrap, aluminum to gain confidence, before attempting to use it on the
under wing skin.

If you cut the holes in the tank you will need to make doubler rings that
rivet to the tank skin and over lap the hole you cut out, leaving a 1/2"
flange to attach the cover plate you will have to make. Use tank rivets and
Pro Seal to seal everything. You will most likely have to make two or three
holes in each leaking tank.

If the holes are cut in the bay aft of the wing tank (like I did) you will
only need to make cover plates to over lap the hole and attach them with
Truss screws, anchor nuts and bolts or clip nuts.

To pressurize the tank and test for leaks, keep it simple. Rubber band a
latex glove over the tank filler cap. Put a rubber hose on the tank shut off
valve, plug all other openings and blow into the hose until the glove stands
up and shut the value to trap the air. If you have a leak the glove will
visibly deflate in a short time. Be sure to maintain a constant temperature.
If you come back the next day and the temperature is colder or warmer the
glove will deflate or expand accordingly. This is not a leak. bring the room
up to the same temperature and check the glove again. Barometric pressure
changes may effect this as well but I never experienced a noticeable
difference.

MEK is not good to touch or breath so protect your hands with gloves and use
a painters mask. Pro Seal comes in thick and thin. I have never used the thin
but many builders say it works well to patch holes because it can be brushed.
I use pop sickle sticks to apply the thick type. Good luck.

Bruce G 357R

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Charles Skorupa · Post by **Charles Skorupa** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Check out:

http://communities.msn.com/NWRebelExper ... plate.msnw

for a template.

Chuck Skorupa
Elite SN 500E

From: Legeorgen@cs.com
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank
Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:03:05 EST

Jim,

There are many different ways to cut inspection holes and use Pro Seal (you
can get Pro Seal from Aircraft Spruce, MEK at any hardware) and every
builder
seems to have a different method.

<<<snip>>>

_________________________________________________________________
Join the world

LisaFly99 · Post by **LisaFly99** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

In a message dated 1/28/02 8:53:39 AM Central Standard Time, jimthepilot@hotmail.com writes:

Also I'm not familiar with MEK

JIM
Take Bruces warning about MEK (methel-ethel-keytone). The first MSDS (material safety data sheet) I read said it hasn't been clinically proven BUT is believed to cause irreversible nerve damage if breathed or absorbed. That was from DuPont Inc.
Phil&Lisa Smith

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klehman · Post by **klehman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Jim
Probably a silly question, but did the previous owner build it and are
you certain you have pro-sealed tanks?
I think 097R would have originally shipped with molded plastic tanks
like 119R. The upgrade kit was of course available shortly thereafter
though.
Ken

Jim Stevens wrote:

snip
I was told by the previous owner that the weeping at the bottom of the tank
was caused by putting Mohawk fuel into the tank which damaged the ProSeal.

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Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Ken,
Thanks for your inquiry. This system of asking for help works well, I've
received some excellent ideas and information.
This kit wasn't registered until 1998 so it was built over a long period
of time. The builder did check with Murphy from time to time for upgrades
and incorporated them.
Now I'm not sure if the tank in trouble is coated with ProSeal because
one of the e mails I received said that ProSeal dries a dark grey color. The
material inside my tank is an off white color so probably it isn't ProSeal.

Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: klehman <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: January 28, 2002 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank

Jim
Probably a silly question, but did the previous owner build it and are
you certain you have pro-sealed tanks?
I think 097R would have originally shipped with molded plastic tanks
like 119R. The upgrade kit was of course available shortly thereafter
though.
Ken

Jim Stevens wrote:
snip
I was told by the previous owner that the weeping at the bottom of the

tank

was caused by putting Mohawk fuel into the tank which damaged the

ProSeal.

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Jim Stevens · Post by **Jim Stevens** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:39 pm

Hi Phil & Lisa,
Yes my tank was coated on the inside with something that is an off white color, one of my e mails said that ProSeal should be a dark grey color. Unfortunately the builder moved from the area and I can't confirm the name of the material.

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: January 28, 2002 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: Leaking Fuel Tank

In a message dated 1/28/02 8:17:31 AM Central Standard Time, jimthepilot@hotmail.com (jimthepilot@hotmail.com) writes:

I was told by the previous owner that the weeping at the bottom of the tank
was caused by putting Mohawk fuel into the tank which damaged the ProSeal
JIM
From all I've read MEK is supposed to be the only thing to effect Pro-Seal. Gas, aero or auto and their additives aren't supposed to bother the stuff. Was you're tank sloshed previously?
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D