SR Brake lines

[Dave Qualley]

SR Builders:

What tubing did everyone else receive with their kit for brake lines?

Mine came with a 9' length(Part #485-4), and a 30inch length(Part #NNR).

Obviously there must be some error, as there's no way to connect up two
wheels with that little tubing..

To keep me progressing over the weekend: What are the two types of tube
meant to be used for.. I could at least hook the master cyl's up to the
reservoir, and connect the two brake cyl on each wheel to each other..
Just leaving the long run from the Master cyl. to Brake Cyl for later..

Dave Q.
#057SR






-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Phil McGrogan]

Hi Dave: I just picked up a SR Quick Build Kit and checked the Packing
Slip. Like you
Part #485-4 is a 9' length but in my kit, Part #NNR is a 20' length of 1/4"
nylon Brake line. This is for the tail dragger version, but I don't think
that that would really matter. Looks like there was a mistake in your
order.

Phil McGrogan
SR3500


Subject: SR Brake lines
SR Builders:
What tubing did everyone else receive with their kit for brake lines?
Mine came with a 9' length(Part #485-4), and a 30inch length(Part #NNR).
Dave Q.
#057SR








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Dave Qualley]

OK.. Now I know I'm short some brake line from Murphy.. I'll work on
getting that from them this week, at least I'm only an hour away from
the factory..

Now I need to know..

How should I connect up the two brakes on each wheel? I've seen it done
two ways and I'm wondering if one way is better than another..

The first I saw was the line running down the gear leg, into a "Tee",
then splitting to the two brakes.
The second way ran down the gear leg straight into the first brake at
the top, then a second line connecting to the other brake.

Looking at the parts I have I'm guessing that Murphy intends to go with
option 1. However option 2 seems to have less connections between
hoses and fittings. (3 vs. 5)

Another thing I've been wondering about.. I've read that using Teflon
tape in threaded fittings is a big no-no for fuel lines, does this also
apply to brake lines? What is the accepted way to seal threaded joints
in fuel and brake lines?

Lastly.. When I get the brake system all installed, is there any
special brake fluid that I should use, or is something from Canadian
Tire OK to use..

Thanks,
Dave
#057SR





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Al & Deb Paxhia]

Dave,
I used a tee from a single line running down the gear leg. Seemed like the
best way to be sure they work. I was told that MIL-H-5606 is what should be
used in aircraft brake systems. I know that other fluids can be used in
landing gear systems but not brakes. For fittings I have been using Permatex
(14A) it's a thread sealant with Teflon, leaving the first 2 or 3 threads
clean.
Al
SR#26
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Qualley" <dqualley@home.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 9:23 PM
Subject: SR Brake Lines

OK.. Now I know I'm short some brake line from Murphy.. I'll work on
getting that from them this week, at least I'm only an hour away from
the factory..

Now I need to know..

How should I connect up the two brakes on each wheel? I've seen it done
two ways and I'm wondering if one way is better than another..

The first I saw was the line running down the gear leg, into a "Tee",
then splitting to the two brakes.
The second way ran down the gear leg straight into the first brake at
the top, then a second line connecting to the other brake.

Looking at the parts I have I'm guessing that Murphy intends to go with
option 1. However option 2 seems to have less connections between
hoses and fittings. (3 vs. 5)

Another thing I've been wondering about.. I've read that using Teflon
tape in threaded fittings is a big no-no for fuel lines, does this also
apply to brake lines? What is the accepted way to seal threaded joints
in fuel and brake lines?

Lastly.. When I get the brake system all installed, is there any
special brake fluid that I should use, or is something from Canadian
Tire OK to use..

Thanks,
Dave
#057SR



** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Or you can just use Dextron III transmission fluid, which is cheaper and
easier to acquire. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE should you use anything referred to
as brake fluid! Dextron III works great for the brakes and also in MAM's
amphib float hydraulic systems. Normal brake fluid will swell the
seals/o-rings in the brake pedal cylinders and wheel calipers.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al & Deb Paxhia" <paxhia2@home.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: SR Brake Lines

Dave,
I used a tee from a single line running down the gear leg. Seemed like the
best way to be sure they work. I was told that MIL-H-5606 is what should

be

used in aircraft brake systems. I know that other fluids can be used in
landing gear systems but not brakes. For fittings I have been using

Permatex

(14A) it's a thread sealant with Teflon, leaving the first 2 or 3 threads
clean.
Al
SR#26
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Qualley" <dqualley@home.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 9:23 PM
Subject: SR Brake Lines

OK.. Now I know I'm short some brake line from Murphy.. I'll work on
getting that from them this week, at least I'm only an hour away from
the factory..

Now I need to know..

How should I connect up the two brakes on each wheel? I've seen it done
two ways and I'm wondering if one way is better than another..

The first I saw was the line running down the gear leg, into a "Tee",
then splitting to the two brakes.
The second way ran down the gear leg straight into the first brake at
the top, then a second line connecting to the other brake.

Looking at the parts I have I'm guessing that Murphy intends to go with
option 1. However option 2 seems to have less connections between
hoses and fittings. (3 vs. 5)

Another thing I've been wondering about.. I've read that using Teflon
tape in threaded fittings is a big no-no for fuel lines, does this also
apply to brake lines? What is the accepted way to seal threaded joints
in fuel and brake lines?

Lastly.. When I get the brake system all installed, is there any
special brake fluid that I should use, or is something from Canadian
Tire OK to use..

Thanks,
Dave
#057SR



** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Patterson]

**********************************************
Hi !

I just added a big bunch of stars above !! This message
from Wayne is VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!

If you haven't added brake fluid, DON'T !!! Even the Murphy
factory ALWAYS use standard AUTOMOTIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.
It will work as well, not damage seals, and won't damage paint jobs
like brake fluid. It is ideal for brakes and the amphib floats.

.....bobp

**************************************************

---------------------------------orig.-------------------------------
At 09:36 AM 10/22/01 -0400, you wrote:

Or you can just use Dextron III transmission fluid, which is cheaper and
easier to acquire. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE should you use anything referred to
as brake fluid! Dextron III works great for the brakes and also in MAM's
amphib float hydraulic systems. Normal brake fluid will swell the
seals/o-rings in the brake pedal cylinders and wheel calipers.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al & Deb Paxhia" <paxhia2@home.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 1:26 AM
Subject: Re: SR Brake Lines

Dave,
I used a tee from a single line running down the gear leg. Seemed like the
best way to be sure they work. I was told that MIL-H-5606 is what should

be

used in aircraft brake systems. I know that other fluids can be used in
landing gear systems but not brakes. For fittings I have been using

Permatex

(14A) it's a thread sealant with Teflon, leaving the first 2 or 3 threads
clean.
Al
SR#26
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Qualley" <dqualley@home.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2001 9:23 PM
Subject: SR Brake Lines

OK.. Now I know I'm short some brake line from Murphy.. I'll work on
getting that from them this week, at least I'm only an hour away from
the factory..

Now I need to know..

How should I connect up the two brakes on each wheel? I've seen it done
two ways and I'm wondering if one way is better than another..

The first I saw was the line running down the gear leg, into a "Tee",
then splitting to the two brakes.
The second way ran down the gear leg straight into the first brake at
the top, then a second line connecting to the other brake.

Looking at the parts I have I'm guessing that Murphy intends to go with
option 1. However option 2 seems to have less connections between
hoses and fittings. (3 vs. 5)

Another thing I've been wondering about.. I've read that using Teflon
tape in threaded fittings is a big no-no for fuel lines, does this also
apply to brake lines? What is the accepted way to seal threaded joints
in fuel and brake lines?

Lastly.. When I get the brake system all installed, is there any
special brake fluid that I should use, or is something from Canadian
Tire OK to use..

Thanks,
Dave
#057SR



** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**


** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

Just to clarify.

I know you are saying not to use automotive brake fluid because most of
it is alcohol based, it absorbs water, and it is incompatible with MAM's
seals.

However, I presume there is no problem whatsoever if someone chooses to
use the product sold as light aircraft brake fluid which is petroleum
based.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

**********************************************
Hi !

I just added a big bunch of stars above !! This message
from Wayne is VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!

If you haven't added brake fluid, DON'T !!! Even the Murphy
factory ALWAYS use standard AUTOMOTIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.
It will work as well, not damage seals, and won't damage paint jobs
like brake fluid. It is ideal for brakes and the amphib floats.

.....bobp

**************************************************

-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Basically Ken, I'm sure that there is some other compatible stuff out there,
but if it ain't red don't use it!! Why try something else, that probably
costs more money and may damage your equipment, when CTC is around the
corner and sells Dextron III in quarts and gallons for "peanuts" compared to
MIL spec fluids. I have had absolutely NO seepage from any brake systems
and/or amphib hydraulic systems in 8 years using Dextron III. Howard's
amphibs after 4+ years still hold 125 psi for DAYS, with no bleed down, so
none of his cylinders etc have started to leak past the cylinder piston
seals, or rod seals. The 1500 amphibs I just pulled off C-FOKM today are
probably 7+ years old and have absolutely no leakage either, and have been
using DEXTRON III.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca


----- Original Message -----
From: "klehman" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: SR Brake Lines

Just to clarify.

I know you are saying not to use automotive brake fluid because most of
it is alcohol based, it absorbs water, and it is incompatible with MAM's
seals.

However, I presume there is no problem whatsoever if someone chooses to
use the product sold as light aircraft brake fluid which is petroleum
based.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

**********************************************
Hi !

I just added a big bunch of stars above !! This message
from Wayne is VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!

If you haven't added brake fluid, DON'T !!! Even the Murphy
factory ALWAYS use standard AUTOMOTIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.
It will work as well, not damage seals, and won't damage paint jobs
like brake fluid. It is ideal for brakes and the amphib floats.

.....bobp

**************************************************

** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with

**

** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself

**

** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm

**

** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

**




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------