I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in thickness,
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of steel
and temper would be appropriate?
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SR building questions
-
John Worden
SR building questions
Mike;
I mistakenly left my wraps long so that the angle where the two meet
was not too great. I was able to use a mallet and a sand bag to bend the
top piece back to match the underlying corner wrap. As I recall it did not
take too much and the fit is good. However, I think I need to go back and put a
dummy bulkhead under this joint now. If you cut the top wrap to length so it
lands on the
first bulkhead behind the cabin you will have more forming to do than I did.
Maybe I did the right thing after all. I think when you start fitting you
should
drill at the center only and cleco out in both directions rather than
starting at the bottom
and working up.
The other two pieces go between the front door post and the firewall at the
top of the panel. The 90 degree end gets notched to fit around the side of
the post.
Check the length needed for the front two - you may be able to experiment a
little
with forming the end of one and still have enough material when you trim off
the sections
you beat on.
John Worden
SR012
At 07:53 PM 6/24/01 -0800, you wrote:
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I mistakenly left my wraps long so that the angle where the two meet
was not too great. I was able to use a mallet and a sand bag to bend the
top piece back to match the underlying corner wrap. As I recall it did not
take too much and the fit is good. However, I think I need to go back and put a
dummy bulkhead under this joint now. If you cut the top wrap to length so it
lands on the
first bulkhead behind the cabin you will have more forming to do than I did.
Maybe I did the right thing after all. I think when you start fitting you
should
drill at the center only and cleco out in both directions rather than
starting at the bottom
and working up.
The other two pieces go between the front door post and the firewall at the
top of the panel. The 90 degree end gets notched to fit around the side of
the post.
Check the length needed for the front two - you may be able to experiment a
little
with forming the end of one and still have enough material when you trim off
the sections
you beat on.
John Worden
SR012
At 07:53 PM 6/24/01 -0800, you wrote:
thickness,*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of steel
and temper would be appropriate?
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-
klehman
SR building questions
Mike
For the firewall and tailwrap on the standard Rebel I pulled the wraps
pretty much into position with ratcheting cargo straps and rope and wood
strips near the top and bottom rivet lines before drilling. I don't
think pulling it around the curve as you rivet will work very well. If
things do shift slightly, I like to use a 5/32" rivet rather than put a
1/8" rivet in an oval hole but only after the part is otherwise
finished.
Instead of being unhappy with the result or ruining the part you might
want to practice shrinking the end on a homemade part. If you want to
get really picky there is a section in Ron Fournier's "Metal
Fabricator's Handbook" US$17. on shrinking with a wooden mallet. Nice to
know the theory but it didn't really help me much with 6061T6 other than
to realize that a metal hammer stretches metal whereas a wooden mallet
over a hardwood form can be used to shrink gathered or fluted metal.
I have seen someone with more experience than me use some small flutes
in the corner wrap, positioned between rivets, to shrink the edge. They
can not be seen from the exterior. My experience has been to form the
part before you drill any holes, and don't count on clecos to pull
anything into position that doesn't fit before you drill.
Ken
"Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" wrote:
--*
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
For the firewall and tailwrap on the standard Rebel I pulled the wraps
pretty much into position with ratcheting cargo straps and rope and wood
strips near the top and bottom rivet lines before drilling. I don't
think pulling it around the curve as you rivet will work very well. If
things do shift slightly, I like to use a 5/32" rivet rather than put a
1/8" rivet in an oval hole but only after the part is otherwise
finished.
Instead of being unhappy with the result or ruining the part you might
want to practice shrinking the end on a homemade part. If you want to
get really picky there is a section in Ron Fournier's "Metal
Fabricator's Handbook" US$17. on shrinking with a wooden mallet. Nice to
know the theory but it didn't really help me much with 6061T6 other than
to realize that a metal hammer stretches metal whereas a wooden mallet
over a hardwood form can be used to shrink gathered or fluted metal.
I have seen someone with more experience than me use some small flutes
in the corner wrap, positioned between rivets, to shrink the edge. They
can not be seen from the exterior. My experience has been to form the
part before you drill any holes, and don't count on clecos to pull
anything into position that doesn't fit before you drill.
Ken
"Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" wrote:
--*
I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
tjpackard
SR building questions
Mike:
My Super Rebel is #043, and it sounds like we're moving along at about the
same pace. I just finished my corner wraps and I also thought the baseball
bat idea didn't make sense. I believe the curved portion of the top wraps
needs to be stretched in the center portion of the curve, not shrunk , to
fit the shape of bulkhead 'A'. I did this using a bag of sand (from
Menards) and a 1/8" thick sheet of red silicone rubber between the sand bag
and the corner wrap. To stretch it to fit, I simply used a curved steel
hand dolly used for body work (hitting the inside of the curve). If you
use this technique, use a dolly with a gentle curve (large radius). Mine
came out smooth, with no visible dimples.
Tom Packard
SR #043
"Kim, Sarah,
and Mike To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Kimball" cc: (bcc: Thomas J. Packard/US-Corporate/3M/US)
<agt@mosquitone Subject: SR building questions
t.com>
06/24/2001
10:53 PM
Please respond
to murphy-rebel
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
thickness,
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a
standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of
steel
and temper would be appropriate?
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
My Super Rebel is #043, and it sounds like we're moving along at about the
same pace. I just finished my corner wraps and I also thought the baseball
bat idea didn't make sense. I believe the curved portion of the top wraps
needs to be stretched in the center portion of the curve, not shrunk , to
fit the shape of bulkhead 'A'. I did this using a bag of sand (from
Menards) and a 1/8" thick sheet of red silicone rubber between the sand bag
and the corner wrap. To stretch it to fit, I simply used a curved steel
hand dolly used for body work (hitting the inside of the curve). If you
use this technique, use a dolly with a gentle curve (large radius). Mine
came out smooth, with no visible dimples.
Tom Packard
SR #043
"Kim, Sarah,
and Mike To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Kimball" cc: (bcc: Thomas J. Packard/US-Corporate/3M/US)
<agt@mosquitone Subject: SR building questions
t.com>
06/24/2001
10:53 PM
Please respond
to murphy-rebel
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
thickness,
attached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is something
more used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a
standard
"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits, but
would just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of
steel
and temper would be appropriate?
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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-
Al & Deb Paxhia
SR building questions
Mike,
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
thickness,I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
somethingattached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is
standardmore used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a
but"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits,
steelwould just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*and temper would be appropriate?
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-
Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimb
SR building questions
Murphy wrote back about the pork chop method of attaching the floats and said that Darrel didn't like the way it applied inward stress on the landing gear torsion box. Instead, two little triangular pieces of aluminum are used somehow. The ones I saw on the demonstrator seemed so insubstantial compared to the massive steel landing gear legs. I guess since the landing forces are split between the fore and aft float attach points, the attach point at the main landing gear attach don't have to be as strong. I think I will forego the incredible shipping costs from Murphy and just buy some 1/4 inch (that's what they looked like to me, but I'll confirm with Murphy) aluminum locally to make the parts. I guess I need to ask Murphy if they have any manual pages on float installation to see how the whole thing has been designed.
Mike Kimball
SR#044
----------
From: Al & Deb Paxhia
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 6:44 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Mike,
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Mike Kimball
SR#044
----------
From: Al & Deb Paxhia
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 6:44 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Mike,
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
thickness,I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
somethingattached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is
standardmore used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a
but"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits,
steelwould just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*and temper would be appropriate?
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Al & Deb Paxhia
SR building questions
Mike,
The new brackets were made from 2024-T3. When you find out how things are
attached please post it.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: SR building questions
Murphy wrote back about the pork chop method of attaching the floats and
said that Darrel didn't like the way it applied inward stress on the landing
gear torsion box. Instead, two little triangular pieces of aluminum are
used somehow. The ones I saw on the demonstrator seemed so insubstantial
compared to the massive steel landing gear legs. I guess since the landing
forces are split between the fore and aft float attach points, the attach
point at the main landing gear attach don't have to be as strong. I think I
will forego the incredible shipping costs from Murphy and just buy some 1/4
inch (that's what they looked like to me, but I'll confirm with Murphy)
aluminum locally to make the parts. I guess I need to ask Murphy if they
have any manual pages on float installation to see how the whole thing has
been designed.
Mike Kimball
SR#044
----------
From: Al & Deb Paxhia
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 6:44 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: SR building questions
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username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Mike,
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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The new brackets were made from 2024-T3. When you find out how things are
attached please post it.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: SR building questions
Murphy wrote back about the pork chop method of attaching the floats and
said that Darrel didn't like the way it applied inward stress on the landing
gear torsion box. Instead, two little triangular pieces of aluminum are
used somehow. The ones I saw on the demonstrator seemed so insubstantial
compared to the massive steel landing gear legs. I guess since the landing
forces are split between the fore and aft float attach points, the attach
point at the main landing gear attach don't have to be as strong. I think I
will forego the incredible shipping costs from Murphy and just buy some 1/4
inch (that's what they looked like to me, but I'll confirm with Murphy)
aluminum locally to make the parts. I guess I need to ask Murphy if they
have any manual pages on float installation to see how the whole thing has
been designed.
Mike Kimball
SR#044
----------
From: Al & Deb Paxhia
Reply To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 6:44 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: SR building questions
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The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Mike,
I asked Darrell about the change in float attachment. He said the "pork
chop" had a problem so they designed the new attachment bracket but no
testing has been done that I'm aware of.
Al Paxhia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kim, Sarah, and Mike Kimball" <agt@mosquitonet.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:53 PM
Subject: SR building questions
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
thickness,I am still struggling with how to form the piece on my SR that goes from
the rear of the cabin to the first corner wrap. The part has a near
ninety degree bend at the cabin side that I can easily pull into place
to fit the ninety degree rear cabin point, and the other side has a
slight, continuous curve that is supposed to be increased to match the
curve of the corner wrap. (Why Murphy didn't curve it to match, or at
least be close to begin with beats me!!!). Using a sand bag and a
rubber mallet has been suggested, but I don't know how I would keep the
part smooth doing that. Murphy's manual say hang the piece over the
edge of the table and beat it with a large dowel like a baseball bat.
You've got to be kidding me. Murphy says only do the baseball bat thing
if you don't have a shrinker. I can see how a shrinker would be useful
in getting the edges to fit under the sill on the bottom but I can't see
how a shrinker can be used to form the whole piece to lay flat where it
lays over the corner wrap. Which reminds me. I have four pieces that
have a near ninety degree bend on one side and a slight curve on the
other, to be used at the rear cabin to corner wrap area on the top. Why
four? One on the left and one on the right equals two. They can't be
used on the bottom because that piece needs to be fitted to match the
curve of the sill on one side and the curve of the corner wrap on the
other. Can the side of the piece on the top that is supposed to match
the curve of the corner wrap merely be pulled into place by drilling and
clecoing on the bottom, then working my way up, pulling the curve into
place as I go? I'm sure an english wheel could do the job but I ain't
got that kind of money, and have no idea how to use one anyway.
Help?!
Mike Kimball
SR#044
P.S. I saw two triangular pieces of aluminum, about a quarter inch in
somethingattached just above the main landing gear attachment on the demonstrator
Super Rebel (the one with the radial) at the show in Anchorage recently.
I assume these have to do with the float attachment. Are these the only
attachments for floats at the main landing gear attachment, or is
standardmore used, to fit where the landing gear fits as well? If they were the
only things the float struts (is "strut" the right term?) attach to they
seemed inadequate for the loads involved. I was planning on making a
but"pork chop" attachment that would fit exactly as the landing gear fits,
steelwould just protrude through the hole enough to attach the float struts.
Assuming I go the pork chop direction, can anyone tell me what kind of
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*and temper would be appropriate?
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