Door opinions wanted

Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Is there and advantage over the gullwing style door vs the stock door. Can ya fly with the gullwing open? May start fitting doors soon and thought I would get some opinions. Thanks guys.

Bruce

Rick and Cathy Ford · Post by **Rick and Cathy Ford** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Bruce

Yes, you can fly with the gull wing doors open. I've done it.
The plane really cools down fast that way and it's excellent for taxiing.

I find that working around the plane with the gullwing doors open is nice, as I never have them shutting on me while I'm half way in the plane.

The only down side I've found with my installation is that I initially wanted to latch the door at the bottom center only.
But the front part of the door gets sucked out and causes a draft.
The best method would be to latch the door at the front and rear.

That's my experience Bruce.

Rick Ford

----- Original Message -----
From: Flyin B Ranch (flyinb@kfalls.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 10:37 AM
Subject: Door opinions wanted

Is there and advantage over the gullwing style door vs the stock door. Can ya fly with the gullwing open? May start fitting doors soon and thought I would get some opinions. Thanks guys.

Bruce

Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hi Bruce !

The swing-up doors can be easier for floats, but they will
add many hours to your build time ...... you could just build it stock
and GO FLYING !! The doors can be changed later.

The stock doors are very nice to fly with, even with the window
open. It certainly gives a large enough opening to dive out of if you
get into trouble on floats ! ;-)

......bobp

--------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 07:37 AM 5/31/01 -0700, you wrote:

Is there and advantage over the gullwing style door vs the stock door. Can

ya fly with the gullwing open? May start fitting doors soon and thought I
would get some opinions. Thanks guys.

Bruce
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<DIV><FONT size=2>Is there and advantage over the gullwing style door vs the
stock door. Can ya fly with the gullwing open? May start fitting doors soon

and

thought I would get some opinions. Thanks guys.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Bruce</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Bruce,

You will discover flying with the gull doors open (as Rick can probably
attest) you will lose the lift over that portion of your wing. It's an
attention getter if your not expecting it.

Bruce G

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A G Yeoman · Post by **A G Yeoman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Talking about the top front corner of the door being sucked out and causing a draft, --- Mine does that with the standard doors over about 100kts.

Has anyone else noticed this? has anyone bothered to do anything about it?

Cheers

Alister

The only down side I've found with my installation is that I initially wanted to latch the door at the bottom center only.
But the front part of the door gets sucked out and causes a draft.
The best method would be to latch the door at the front and rear.

Rick Harper · Post by **Rick Harper** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

G'day Alistair...

Jim Stonier, who has built kit #326 here in Sydney has also had problems with the doors
flexing open in flight....Jim has fitted a number of extra latching devices...and riveted the
window to the lower door section ( so it does open any more).....all in attempt to stop the
door letting in excess air.

We've only been flying for two hours as yet...standard doors...and no "flexing" or draught
problems to speak of as yet.

I've just spent the last 3 days full time retro fitting some reinforcing plates to the firewall
on each side , under the top engine mounts as per Wayne's diagrams...
Hope to finish it off tomorrow morning.

Our new oil cooler has arrived, so I'll be fitting that in as well.

Hope to be in the air again soonish...................(sooner than I expected) :-)

Rick & Wendy Harper
541R

----- Original Message -----

From: A G Yeoman (yeoman@voyager.co.nz)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Monday, 4 June 2001 17:24
Subject: Re: Door opinions wanted

Talking about the top front corner of the door being sucked out and causing a draft, --- Mine does that with the standard doors over about 100kts.

Has anyone else noticed this? has anyone bothered to do anything about it?

Cheers

Alister

The only down side I've found with my installation is that I initially wanted to latch the door at the bottom center only.
But the front part of the door gets sucked out and causes a draft.
The best method would be to latch the door at the front and rear.

Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Thanks all for your opinions,
It will be a while before it flys as i still need to get an engine, Radios, Insterments. So i have some time to decide on a few things. Just finished the tail mod yesterday and hope to get it on its feet. I attached the spring gear also, Made a 1/8"stainless steel U shaped piece that rivits to the top of the carrythroughs and catches the two outer saddle bolts. I hope that will help beef it up a bit. Anyone know best place to get tire tubes? One of my tubes hade a bad valve stem where it comes out of the tire...Darn

Bruce

Bruce

Yes, you can fly with the gull wing doors open. I've done it.
The plane really cools down fast that way and it's excellent for taxiing.

I find that working around the plane with the gullwing doors open is nice, as I never have them shutting on me while I'm half way in the plane.

The only down side I've found with my installation is that I initially wanted to latch the door at the bottom center only.
But the front part of the door gets sucked out and causes a draft.
The best method would be to latch the door at the front and rear.

That's my experience Bruce.

Rick Ford

Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hi Alister !

We've definitely had to do something about the front of the
window here - winter gets cold !!

The easy solution is just to run a strip or 2 of window insulating
foam tape up the front (the self-adhesive stuff). This fills the gap,
and provides a bit of friction to slow the opening.

Another solution is to position the window latch a few inches
further forward than the manual calls for, and/or twist the window frame
slightly inward before attaching the Lexan.

Some more ambitious souls have added a small latch at the front,
and this <does> fix the problem.

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.------------------------------
At 07:24 PM 6/4/01 +1200, you wrote:

Talking about the top front corner of the door being sucked out and causing

a draft, --- Mine does that with the standard doors over about 100kts.

Has anyone else noticed this? has anyone bothered to do anything about it?

Cheers

Alister

The only down side I've found with my installation is that I initially

wanted to latch the door at the bottom center only.

But the front part of the door gets sucked out and causes a draft.
The best method would be to latch the door at the front and rear.

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Talking about the top front corner of the door
being sucked out and causing a draft, --- Mine does that with the standard

doors

over about 100kts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Has anyone else noticed this? has anyone bothered
to do anything about it?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cheers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Alister</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px;

PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">

<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The only down side I've found with my
installation is that I initially wanted to latch the door at the bottom

center

only.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>But the front part of the door gets sucked out
and causes a draft.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The best method would be to latch the door

at the

front and rear.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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A G Yeoman · Post by **A G Yeoman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Well then!
It sounds like I'm not on my own with the door leak!!

If you fitted a latch to the front it would have to be able to be accessed
from the outside for emergency exit or possibly use a detent ball type
latch, I guess.

Well, I just paid my airfares to Oshkosh so I might be able to catch up with
one or two of you over there, will there be a few Rebels there?

Cheers

Alister

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Door opinions wanted

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Hi Alister !

We've definitely had to do something about the front of the
window here - winter gets cold !!

The easy solution is just to run a strip or 2 of window insulating
foam tape up the front (the self-adhesive stuff). This fills the gap,
and provides a bit of friction to slow the opening.

Another solution is to position the window latch a few inches
further forward than the manual calls for, and/or twist the window frame
slightly inward before attaching the Lexan.

Some more ambitious souls have added a small latch at the front,
and this <does> fix the problem.

.....bobp

<

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Rick and Cathy Ford · Post by **Rick and Cathy Ford** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

I don't think so!
I pop my door open and the only thing I notice is cool air and lots of
noise.
You'll have to turn the squelch down on your mike.
I honestly haven't noticed a difference in the performance with the door
open.

Rick Ford.

----- Original Message -----
From: <Legeorgen@cs.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: Door opinions wanted

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Bruce,

You will discover flying with the gull doors open (as Rick can probably
attest) you will lose the lift over that portion of your wing. It's an
attention getter if your not expecting it.

Bruce G

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:01 pm

Alister,

I will be AirVenture this summer. Perhaps we should all arrange to meet at a
designated time and place.

Bruce G

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:01 pm

Hi Rick,

The gull doors on my Kitfox open and almost touch the lower wing surface.
This disrupts the air flow under the wing destroying lift. There has to be a
decrease in performance as a result. It is VERY noticeable on my Kitfox.

Bruce G

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Drew and Jan · Post by **Drew and Jan** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:02 pm

Hi all I'm using foam tape on my windows too. I haven't installed any
ventilation yet so I just rip off the tape in the summer to let some fresh
air in. One thing I've noticed when flying with the window open is a lot of
oil-canning in the tail. does anyone else have this problem?
Drew

At 03:13 PM 6/4/01 -0400, you wrote:

Hi Alister !

We've definitely had to do something about the front of the
window here - winter gets cold !!

The easy solution is just to run a strip or 2 of window insulating
foam tape up the front (the self-adhesive stuff). This fills the gap,
and provides a bit of friction to slow the opening.

Another solution is to position the window latch a few inches
further forward than the manual calls for, and/or twist the window frame
slightly inward before attaching the Lexan.

Some more ambitious souls have added a small latch at the front,
and this <does> fix the problem.

.....bobp

-----------------------------------------------------

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