Rebel project :-)

Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be worth the effort to put it back to stock? It has spring gear (I would have gone with bungee). Would like to put more than just a "Penny" washer on top of carrythroughs on outside bolts, Any suggestions? Also plan to do the other mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really thinking of the Subaru engine but this thing came with all the stuff for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320. The wings & Tail are done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is good. Is there any critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its been done correct? It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is there a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air again.

Bruce

klehman · Post by **klehman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Flyin B Ranch wrote:

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a
guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be
worth the effort to put it back to stock?

NO ! not for a Subaru or Lycoming, MAM is recomending it cut back and
it is a lot of work to reverse, see below and archives

It has spring gear (I would
have gone with bungee).

Think of all the fairings around the struts that you won't have to make
and the smooth taxiing and see below.

plan to do the other mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really
thinking of the Subaru engine but this thing came with all the stuff
for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320. The wings & Tail are
done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is good. Is there any
critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its been
done correct?

I would check all of MAM's bulletins. Although meaningless in itself,
I've
always thought a good indicator of workmanship is whether all the
exterior
corners of the pieces that you do see are nicely rounded (rather than
left
square). Maybe the builder isn't concerned about cosmetics but it also
indicates how much attention he might be paying to details that do
matter.
One of the nice things about the Rebel is that I don't think there is
much
in the way of "critical points" unless you ignore the manual completely.

It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is
there a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as
the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air
again.

Bruce

Bruce if you really mean your last sentence stick with the Lycoming and
try
to minimise any changes. Enjoy your building and congratulations.

Ken

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Bruce, I am TOTALLY against the windshield sitting overtop of the engine compartment (was always terrified of an engine fire in my Father-n-laws Avid flyer, with only the fiberglass cowl sealing off the firewall!), especially if you put an aluminum extension on like is spelled out in the manual! If you at least use stainless you are returning the protection to the same grade as the firewall. The other problem with the full extension and braces, is that it cuts the access to mags, oil screen etc, considerably. On the fuselage that I just completed, for a customer, we compromised and I put a 1 1/2 inch extension past the firewall. This is only for the fiberglass windshield retainer to sit on (leaves 1 inch for retainer and a 1/2 inch for cowling overlap!) and the windshield bottom will be trimmed back until it sits flush with the firewall. That way it is totally behind the stainless lip of the firewall, doesn't sit overtop of the engine compartment at all and we didn't need the braces for the extension that get in the way of mag access, etc, as it was made from .040. I have seen another one that was done similar to this (Glen Cooke's, ie bottom of windshield trimmed back to pull it in closer to cabin) so I know it will work and the steeper windshield angle is no worse than the original method of using the sheet of lexan and centre post!

Regards,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: Flyin B Ranch (flyinb@kfalls.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 10:08 AM
Subject: Rebel project :-)

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be worth the effort to put it back to stock? It has spring gear (I would have gone with bungee). Would like to put more than just a "Penny" washer on top of carrythroughs on outside bolts, Any suggestions? Also plan to do the other mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really thinking of the Subaru engine but this thing came with all the stuff for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320. The wings & Tail are done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is good. Is there any critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its been done correct? It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is there a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air again.

Bruce

wrayt · Post by **wrayt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Not sure what you mean by all the stuff for a lyc but Dave Bangle at http://subielyc.com/ sells all the stuff to mount a Subaru to a lyc mount.
Flyin B Ranch wrote:

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be worth the effort to put it back to stock? It has spring gear (I would have gone with bungee). Would like to put more than just a "Penny" washer on top of carrythroughs on outside bolts, Any suggestions? Also plan to do the other mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really thinking of the Subaru engine but this thing came with all the stuff for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320. The wings & Tail are done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is good. Is there any critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its been done correct? It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is there a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air again. Bruce

--
Wray Thompson ...Rebel 306 ...home page http://wrayt.tripod.com/
My ICQ number is 29764664

Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hi Bruce !

If the spring gear isn't installed yet, and the tabs haven't
been cut off, you could still go with the bungee gear - it might be
worth it ! If it's on already, check the archives - Alister has
done some pretty radical fixes, including solid inserts for the
bottom tubes to give crush resistance ....

Dave Bangle, at SubieLyc, supplies a Subaru that fits right onto
Lycoming mounts - worth a look. No reason you couldn't do what Rick
Harper has done, and use the Thorp T-18 nosebowl & metal sides for
your cowling. (Hey Rick - could you please post some 3/4 front photos
of that cowl when you can spare a minute from having fun flying ??!! ;-) )

You should check for the tail support mod that Wayne suggested -
it's almost certain that wasn't done. You also might want to do the
"Ontario mods" - an extra wrap around the extreme rear tailcone, to
tie the rudder post, stab, and front tailspring bolt together, replace
the FUS-27 side skins under the doors with duplicates of .032, and
replace door frame channels with the thicker (.032) ST-28 (were ST-31),
and a few extra ST-31 channels under the floor, in the baggage area,
and under the seat rails .....

Do all of the "Floatfix" mods.

Take Wayne's suggestion and minimize the windshield overhang -
and it wouldn't hurt to use .018 stainless there ! Make sure you
grind enough off of the windshield near the top so it doesn't touch the
triangular supports, or it will crack !

When rigging, make sure you have at least 27 degrees of UP
elevator.

You might want to check the thickness of the front corner
wraps (FUS-10 or FUS-70) - they should be at least .025, or replace
them with new ones (the latest ones are .032 - can't remember the number,
but it's something like FUS-542 ??)

I'm assuming the tanks have been tested and don't leak - you
should find out asap ! And - it's not a pleasant possibility -
but you should check, with a mirror & light, to see that all the stringers
do indeed run right through the tank area. There HAVE been Rebels
built without them !! Needless to say, they wouldn't fly very far
like that !!!!

Congratulations, and Good Luck !!

.....bobp

-------------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 07:08 AM 5/26/01 -0700, you wrote:

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a guy

that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be worth the
effort to put it back to stock? It has spring gear (I would have gone with
bungee). Would like to put more than just a "Penny" washer on top of
carrythroughs on outside bolts, Any suggestions? Also plan to do the other
mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really thinking of the Subaru engine but
this thing came with all the stuff for a lyc. so will probably go with an
0-320. The wings & Tail are done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship
is good. Is there any critical points one could check out at this stage to
assure its been done correct? It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed
cowl). Is there a way to install the windshild without going over the
cowling as the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the
air again.

Bruce
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
<META content="MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old

project

from a guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be worth
the effort to put it back to stock? It has spring gear (I would have gone with
bungee). Would like to put more than just a "Penny" washer on top of
carrythroughs on outside bolts, Any suggestions? Also plan to do the other

mods

suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really thinking of the Subaru engine but

this

thing came with all the stuff for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320.

The

wings & Tail are done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is

good. Is

there any critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its
been done correct? It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is

there

a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as the

firewall is

cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air again.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Bruce</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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rebelair · Post by **rebelair** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

HI Ken

I was not quite sure what you meant by your following comment. Could you
please clarify?

'NO ! not for a Subaru or Lycoming, MAM is recomending it cut back and
it is a lot of work to reverse, see below and archives'

How is the building going by the way? Hope to see you at the next meeting.

Best Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman@albedo.net
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 3:17 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Rebel project :-)

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Flyin B Ranch wrote:

Got my Rebel sooner than I expected. Got a 5 year old project from a
guy that gave up on it. He has cut back the firewall, Would it be
worth the effort to put it back to stock?

NO ! not for a Subaru or Lycoming, MAM is recomending it cut back and
it is a lot of work to reverse, see below and archives

It has spring gear (I would
have gone with bungee).

Think of all the fairings around the struts that you won't have to make
and the smooth taxiing and see below.

plan to do the other mods suggested buy Wayne & MAM. Was really
thinking of the Subaru engine but this thing came with all the stuff
for a lyc. so will probably go with an 0-320. The wings & Tail are
done and the Fuselage is 75% done. Workmanship is good. Is there any
critical points one could check out at this stage to assure its been
done correct?

I would check all of MAM's bulletins. Although meaningless in itself,
I've
always thought a good indicator of workmanship is whether all the
exterior
corners of the pieces that you do see are nicely rounded (rather than
left
square). Maybe the builder isn't concerned about cosmetics but it also
indicates how much attention he might be paying to details that do
matter.
One of the nice things about the Rebel is that I don't think there is
much
in the way of "critical points" unless you ignore the manual completely.

It also came with Bob Ps favorite cowl (speed cowl). Is
there a way to install the windshild without going over the cowling as
the firewall is cut back? Yaahoo..Cant wait to get back in the air
again.

Bruce

Bruce if you really mean your last sentence stick with the Lycoming and
try
to minimise any changes. Enjoy your building and congratulations.

Ken

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klehman · Post by **klehman** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hi Brian

MAM recommends the cutback firewall for the 0-320 and I've heard Daryl
Murphy recommend it for the 0-235 as well. The Subaru ej22 is as heavy
as the 0-320.

Advantages include:
-may be able to mount battery on firewall
-less up elevator required which may help cruise speed and landing flare
-less yawing moment of inertia so possibly less tendancy to ground loop
and slightly stronger firewall if you do groundloop

Disadvantages include:
-seat moves back as well which may give less visibility and comfort
-controls normally don't move back which means you may need to purchase
new control sticks with more bend
-Instrument panel also moves back and windshield installation is more
complicated.

There is no question that the aircraft flies fine either way and that
the differences are small, however since Bruce's firewall has already
been moved, I personally could not justify the extra expense and time to
reverse the change, especially in light of his comment "Can't wait to
get back in the air again."

Ken

ps-unfortunately I haven't made much progress on my machine so far this
year -think I need to retire and move to a warmer climate :)
I am planning to be at the next meeting as well.

rebelair wrote:

HI Ken

I was not quite sure what you meant by your following comment. Could you
please clarify?

'NO ! not for a Subaru or Lycoming, MAM is recomending it cut back and
it is a lot of work to reverse, see below and archives'

How is the building going by the way? Hope to see you at the next meeting.

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Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Bruce,

I agree with Ken as far as the firewall goes. It's probably not worth
changing it if it's already done. I bought a project in progress as well, and
would suggest getting the new manual on CD. You can read through both manuals
and compare the differences (and there are several) as well as obtain all of
the service bulletins on the MAM's web sight. I incorporated most of the
builder mods such as Wayne calls out in the archives. Great bunch of guys, by
the way, and willing to give lots advice and support.

If you give MAM a $100 you can use their tech support as well.

My wings where already done so I cut several inspection holes (now called out
in the new manuals) and had a good look inside as much as I could (for my own
comfort). The right wing tank had a leak. I cut three inspection holes on the
outside of the tank and located the offending holes, then pro sealed the hole
side and back of the tank from the outside. It's the top skin that was
leaking. I was intimidated by the process but it wasn't that bad.

I have since found many things I would have done different but I got a deal
and, well, life is a compromise is it not? I think most guys building believe
they are going to fly their planes so for the most part they do a good job.
But it's your plane now so read the manuals and study the hole plane then go
through it with a fine tooth come. Good luck and have fun.

Bruce 357R

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Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Yea Wayne,
I like the idea of moving the windshield back. Probably a good idea to wait till all the insterments and wiring are in before putting on the top skin and windshield. Also this Rebel must have a Elite or Super Rebel insterment panel as it is round on top rather than flat across. Hope that dont make things more difficult.

Take care,
Bruce

Bruce, I am TOTALLY against the windshield sitting overtop of the engine compartment (was always terrified of an engine fire in my Father-n-laws Avid flyer, with only the fiberglass cowl sealing off the firewall!), especially if you put an aluminum extension on like is spelled out in the manual! If you at least use stainless you are returning the protection to the same grade as the firewall. The other problem with the full extension and braces, is that it cuts the access to mags, oil screen etc, considerably. On the fuselage that I just completed, for a customer, we compromised and I put a 1 1/2 inch extension past the firewall. This is only for the fiberglass windshield retainer to sit on (leaves 1 inch for retainer and a 1/2 inch for cowling overlap!) and the windshield bottom will be trimmed back until it sits flush with the firewall. That way it is totally behind the stainless lip of the firewall, doesn't sit overtop of the engine compartment at all and we didn't need the braces for the extension that get in the way of mag access, etc, as it was made from .040. I have seen another one that was done similar to this (Glen Cooke's, ie bottom of windshield trimmed back to pull it in closer to cabin) so I know it will work and the steeper windshield angle is no worse than the original method of using the sheet of lexan and centre post!

Regards,
Wayne

Flyin B Ranch · Post by **Flyin B Ranch** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hello Bob,
Too late, The tabs are cut off. Will do whatever mods and run the spring gear.
I been looking at the SubieLyc engine setup, If I could buy bits and pieces and build up my own engine and save a few bucks would help. Would the Subaru fit in the speed cowl? Anyway this project came with the Lyc. FWF package. Oil cooler, Exhuast, Alt, Ect. So unless I sell all that I am farther ahead to just use Lyc. I guess.
The float hard points are installed and float fix mod is done. I have reserched all the other mods and plan to do them as well. Did not know about the front corner wraps, I will check them out. (If you mean the ones on the bottom between the firewall and carrythroughs). One is rivited on already. I will do a good check of the wings and tanks now i know what to look for.

Thanks Bob and to a great group of people on the list. (The RV crowd that I have been involved with for 16 years has got so big that it lost that "small town" feel that you guys still have) Look forward to meeting some day.

Bruce

Hi Bruce !

If the spring gear isn't installed yet, and the tabs haven't
been cut off, you could still go with the bungee gear - it might be
worth it ! If it's on already, check the archives - Alister has
done some pretty radical fixes, including solid inserts for the
bottom tubes to give crush resistance ....

Dave Bangle, at SubieLyc, supplies a Subaru that fits right onto
Lycoming mounts - worth a look. No reason you couldn't do what Rick
Harper has done, and use the Thorp T-18 nosebowl & metal sides for
your cowling. (Hey Rick - could you please post some 3/4 front photos
of that cowl when you can spare a minute from having fun flying ??!! ;-) )

You should check for the tail support mod that Wayne suggested -
it's almost certain that wasn't done. You also might want to do the
"Ontario mods" - an extra wrap around the extreme rear tailcone, to
tie the rudder post, stab, and front tailspring bolt together, replace
the FUS-27 side skins under the doors with duplicates of .032, and
replace door frame channels with the thicker (.032) ST-28 (were ST-31),
and a few extra ST-31 channels under the floor, in the baggage area,
and under the seat rails .....

Do all of the "Floatfix" mods.

Take Wayne's suggestion and minimize the windshield overhang -
and it wouldn't hurt to use .018 stainless there ! Make sure you
grind enough off of the windshield near the top so it doesn't touch the
triangular supports, or it will crack !

When rigging, make sure you have at least 27 degrees of UP
elevator.

You might want to check the thickness of the front corner
wraps (FUS-10 or FUS-70) - they should be at least .025, or replace
them with new ones (the latest ones are .032 - can't remember the number,
but it's something like FUS-542 ??)

I'm assuming the tanks have been tested and don't leak - you
should find out asap ! And - it's not a pleasant possibility -
but you should check, with a mirror & light, to see that all the stringers
do indeed run right through the tank area. There HAVE been Rebels
built without them !! Needless to say, they wouldn't fly very far
like that !!!!

Congratulations, and Good Luck !!

.....bobp

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Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Hi Bruce !

Oh, well ..... lots of people are flying around hapilly with
the spring gear. I would definitely follow those who have made up
solid pieces to fill the bottom tubes - this will add strength and
crush resistance, and spare you grief later. Also, double check
those gear bolts for correct torque, as the factory suggests.

Dave Bangle (SubieLyc) actually ENCOURAGES people to buy bits
and pieces and assemble his mounts and drives, as this makes them
more knowledgable, and better equipped to maintain the installation.
It should fit into the speed cowl (although you <know> that <I> would
just chuck it, and get something that would make maintenance possible ! ;-) )

If you do the Lyc., ask here before you mount the oil cooler -
there is a much better way than suggested in the manual. Also, be
sure to seal the space between the scoop and the carb. air filter
with rubber - otherwise, you'll likely have cooling problems.

Sounds like you've got the "optional high panel" off the Elite.
If you like it, fine - otherwise, <I'd> rather see more of the REAL
horizon. You really can't use much of that space near the top anyway,
because of the slope, and it will likely make windshield installation
a bit more difficult. In any case, I would run a 1 1/2" aluminum angle
strip all along the bottom of the panel, to stiffen it, and mount
the throttle, mixture, primer, etc. on it. The panel IS structural.
You will find it easier to work on, and better for the life of the
instruments, if you cut the holes slightly oversize, and mount the
instruments on a separate 'floating' panel with shock mounts at
the corners. The same idea will make the electrical panel on the
left angle MUCH easier to work on. The electrics don't have to float,
the panel can be secured with 2 piano hinges top & bottom....
It's just SO much easier to swing this down & wire, rather than
crawling in over that control tube and working upside down on
your back under the panel !!

The corner wraps are on the bottom AND the top corners - both
are important, as they get a lot of loading from the engine. The oldest
ones were called FUS-10, and were .020 - later ones were FUS-70, and
were .025 (these are OK). Now they are supplying (FUS-542 ???) the
wraps from the Elite, and they are .032 - this is thicker than you
really need, and harder to work with, but it saves the factory
inventory hassles by just using one part for all models. (and
as everyone says - a little extra thickness won't hurt ;-) )

These same wraps are used at the back of the cabin area,
and, if you're feeling really ambitious, or they're not on yet,
it would be good to upgrade those as well.

Welcome to the "Rebel Builders group" - we hope we'll always
be friendly and helpful. We have SO much FUN flying our Rebels,
we're unlikely to turn into snobs !! ;-)

......bobp

---------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 09:06 AM 5/27/01 -0700, you wrote:

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Hello Bob,
Too late, The tabs are cut off. Will do whatever mods and run the spring gear.
I been looking at the SubieLyc engine setup, If I could buy bits and

pieces and build up my own engine and save a few bucks would help. Would the
Subaru fit in the speed cowl? Anyway this project came with the Lyc. FWF
package. Oil cooler, Exhuast, Alt, Ect. So unless I sell all that I am
farther ahead to just use Lyc. I guess.

The float hard points are installed and float fix mod is done. I have

reserched all the other mods and plan to do them as well. Did not know about
the front corner wraps, I will check them out. (If you mean the ones on the
bottom between the firewall and carrythroughs). One is rivited on already. I
will do a good check of the wings and tanks now i know what to look for.

Thanks Bob and to a great group of people on the list. (The RV crowd that I

have been involved with for 16 years has got so big that it lost that "small
town" feel that you guys still have) Look forward to meeting some day.

Bruce

Hi Bruce !

If the spring gear isn't installed yet, and the tabs haven't
been cut off, you could still go with the bungee gear - it might be
worth it ! If it's on already, check the archives - Alister has
done some pretty radical fixes, including solid inserts for the
bottom tubes to give crush resistance ....

Dave Bangle, at SubieLyc, supplies a Subaru that fits right onto
Lycoming mounts - worth a look. No reason you couldn't do what Rick
Harper has done, and use the Thorp T-18 nosebowl & metal sides for
your cowling. (Hey Rick - could you please post some 3/4 front photos
of that cowl when you can spare a minute from having fun flying ??!! ;-) )

You should check for the tail support mod that Wayne suggested -
it's almost certain that wasn't done. You also might want to do the
"Ontario mods" - an extra wrap around the extreme rear tailcone, to
tie the rudder post, stab, and front tailspring bolt together, replace
the FUS-27 side skins under the doors with duplicates of .032, and
replace door frame channels with the thicker (.032) ST-28 (were ST-31),
and a few extra ST-31 channels under the floor, in the baggage area,
and under the seat rails .....

Do all of the "Floatfix" mods.

Take Wayne's suggestion and minimize the windshield overhang -
and it wouldn't hurt to use .018 stainless there ! Make sure you
grind enough off of the windshield near the top so it doesn't touch the
triangular supports, or it will crack !

When rigging, make sure you have at least 27 degrees of UP
elevator.

You might want to check the thickness of the front corner
wraps (FUS-10 or FUS-70) - they should be at least .025, or replace
them with new ones (the latest ones are .032 - can't remember the number,
but it's something like FUS-542 ??)

I'm assuming the tanks have been tested and don't leak - you
should find out asap ! And - it's not a pleasant possibility -
but you should check, with a mirror & light, to see that all the stringers
do indeed run right through the tank area. There HAVE been Rebels
built without them !! Needless to say, they wouldn't fly very far
like that !!!!

Congratulations, and Good Luck !!

.....bobp
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wrayt · Post by **wrayt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Check here for the corner wraps and thickness mods.
http://wrayt.tripod.com/construction.html click on the corner wrap picture for a
larger view.

Bob Patterson wrote:

[quote]*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

Bob Patterson · Post by **Bob Patterson** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Thanks Wray !

Had a look at the picture - one correction. The Fus-10's
are .020, not .010 ....

Looked at Wayne's FUS-30 mod - personally, I would bring the
doubler farther forward, maybe another 3" or so, picking up more
rivets at the top, and all of those on the bulkhead .... but that's
just me !

.....bobp

--------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
At 01:44 PM 5/27/01 -0700, you wrote:

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The list archives are located at:
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username: rebel password: builder
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Check here for the corner wraps and thickness mods.
http://wrayt.tripod.com/construction.html click on the corner wrap picture

for a

larger view.

Bob Patterson wrote:

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

wrayt · Post by **wrayt** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Thanks Bob

Legeorgen · Post by **Legeorgen** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:56 pm

Bob,

Tell me more about this optional oil cooler location. I'm just now getting
ready to make my baffles.

Bruce G 357R

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