[rebel-builders] windshield retainer

[Drew Dalgleish]

From my canoe building memories I believe that the supplied fabric was
about 6oz/sq/yd. I used west system epoxy instead of the supplied
polyester resin that had turned to jello by the time I got around to
needing it.

On 24/07/2011 6:16 PM, Garry Wright wrote:

Can anyone tell me what weight of fabric Murphy is referring to when they
say to lay up four layers of 45* cut glass? I think I am working with
fabric that is too light from the looks of it.

Garry




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[Garry Wright]

Thanks Drew. I was afraid of that. My material is way light.

Garry

On 2011-07-24, at 9:12 PM, Drew Dalgleish <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:

From my canoe building memories I believe that the supplied fabric was
about 6oz/sq/yd. I used west system epoxy instead of the supplied
polyester resin that had turned to jello by the time I got around to
needing it.

On 24/07/2011 6:16 PM, Garry Wright wrote:

Can anyone tell me what weight of fabric Murphy is referring to when they
say to lay up four layers of 45* cut glass? I think I am working with
fabric that is too light from the looks of it.

Garry




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[Ken]

Hi Gary

Extra layers won't hurt if you already have the material. The thinner
cloth (about 3 oz. I think) is nice on the top surface anyway if you
want a smooth surface but a bit more work to make sure there are no
trapped air bubbles I guess.

I think the stuff Canadian Tire sells for automotive repair is at least
twice that weight, easier to work with, and similar to what was in my
kit. Probably easier to use on compound curves now that I think about it
but I think the key for me was to overlap relatively short pieces (6 or
8" ?). I also made it oversize and trimmed it back later (wear a dust
mask). I used a fair number of fabric rivets to install the retainer
which let me keep the retainer fairly thin.

As always, test harden a bit of resin before you use it unless you know
it is fresh.

Ken

On 7/25/2011 12:52 AM, Garry Wright wrote:

Thanks Drew. I was afraid of that. My material is way light.

Garry

On 2011-07-24, at 9:12 PM, Drew Dalgleish<drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:

From my canoe building memories I believe that the supplied fabric was
about 6oz/sq/yd. I used west system epoxy instead of the supplied
polyester resin that had turned to jello by the time I got around to
needing it.

On 24/07/2011 6:16 PM, Garry Wright wrote:

Can anyone tell me what weight of fabric Murphy is referring to when they
say to lay up four layers of 45* cut glass? I think I am working with
fabric that is too light from the looks of it.

Garry

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[Garry Wright]

Thanks Ken. I had not thought of CTC on this. I bought a sheet from
Industrial Plastics and cut my own 45* bias strips. Seems to work fine but
with no experience glassing stuff I guessed at material that was too light.
Because it is a redo, there are lots of rivet holes to use. : )
Good tips as usual Ken.

Garry

On Mon, Jul 25, 2011 at 5:33 AM, Ken <klehman@albedo.net> wrote:

Hi Gary

Extra layers won't hurt if you already have the material. The thinner
cloth (about 3 oz. I think) is nice on the top surface anyway if you
want a smooth surface but a bit more work to make sure there are no
trapped air bubbles I guess.

I think the stuff Canadian Tire sells for automotive repair is at least
twice that weight, easier to work with, and similar to what was in my
kit. Probably easier to use on compound curves now that I think about it
but I think the key for me was to overlap relatively short pieces (6 or
8" ?). I also made it oversize and trimmed it back later (wear a dust
mask). I used a fair number of fabric rivets to install the retainer
which let me keep the retainer fairly thin.

As always, test harden a bit of resin before you use it unless you know
it is fresh.

Ken

On 7/25/2011 12:52 AM, Garry Wright wrote:

Thanks Drew. I was afraid of that. My material is way light.

Garry

On 2011-07-24, at 9:12 PM, Drew Dalgleish<drewjan@cabletv.on.ca> wrote:

From my canoe building memories I believe that the supplied fabric was
about 6oz/sq/yd. I used west system epoxy instead of the supplied
polyester resin that had turned to jello by the time I got around to
needing it.

On 24/07/2011 6:16 PM, Garry Wright wrote:

they

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[Ken]

Michael

Being on dial up I don't see your photos and generally ignore large
emails however:

Aircraft Spruce is often the cheapest source but shipping is another
issue. Sheet aluminum can be obtained at any commercial metal supplier
providing you identify the grade positively. Most Rebel skins are
labeled 60601T6 which is a common commercial grade. Some fittings etc
are stronger material though and I have no experience at all with the
Moose. You are free to use any part that you judge adequate and that the
inspector is happy with but the inspector is only looking for major
departures from standard practice. You are responsible for everything.

For a new aircraft I believe you MUST go through MDRA who have a
website. You need at least two inspections (preclose and finished) so
that is at least two visits by an inspector. Travel costs may be
significant. I did it in only two visits. They chose who the inspector
will be. Check out their site for all the rules and inspections.
Don't forget the RAA site. (raa.ca I think)

Don't think you will find much use for parts from any wrecked aircraft
unless it is also a Moose. Used stuff is often more time and money than
it seems at first glance.

Suggest you ask question on the list for better answers and more local
info. Also there is a wealth of info in the archives.

Ken



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