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murphy-rebel Digest for 23 Dec 2000

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Ron Barber

murphy-rebel Digest for 23 Dec 2000

Post by Ron Barber » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:38 pm

Hi guys, I'm doing final assembly on Rebel #061 and would appreciate some
input as to degree deflection for flaperons, with and without flaps and
reflex, also elevator rudder and elevator travel....
Planning for final inspection in Jan. and hopefully the first flight on
ski's as soon as the paper work completes...

Happy New Year
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "list-server" <list-server@dcsol.com>
To: <rbarber@primus.ca>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 9:00 PM
Subject: murphy-rebel Digest for 23 Dec 2000


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murphy-rebel Digest for 23 Dec 2000

Topics covered in this issue include:

1: Re: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14
by Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
2: Re: new builder
by Legeorgen@cs.com [mailto:Legeorgen@cs.com]
3: Back up
by "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
4: Wow - great Photos Grant!
by hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
5: Thamks Guys !
by "Rick Harper" <rjwh@ozemail.com.au>
6: Re: Re - previous "HELP" e-mail
by travis underwood <travisunderwood@yahoo.com>
7: Contributions
by "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
8: Old Bungee and an gear question.
by hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
9: corner wraps
by Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
10: Re: new builder
by Legeorgen@cs.com
11: Turning wing
by "carol51" <carol51@attcanada.ca>
12: Re: Old Bungee and an gear question.
by Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
13: Re: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14
by Drew and Jan <drewjan@execulink.com>
14: mixing epoxy
by Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
15: Re: new builder
by Legeorgen@cs.com [mailto:Legeorgen@cs.com]
16: mixing epoxy
by Richard DeCiero [mailto:rsdec1@star.net]
17: corner wraps
by Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>



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1 Message:0001 1
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From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14

Bob

I think that you would be grinning so much behind this thing that you
would
feel
no pain at all. I wish I could find a use for something like this! Maybe
a
clipped wing SR for an extra 20 KNOTS.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson [mailto:bob.patterson@canrem.com]
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 10:24 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List
Subject: Re: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14



I agree completely - the M-14 looks like THE BEST BUY out there !
All I was saying is that running the SR-3500 was definitely going to
be a bit more painful than running a C-150 !!! :-) :-)

.....bobp

-------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 07:10 PM 12/22/00 -0500, you wrote:
Hello ALL, even if you only get 800 hours out of an M14, consider the
fact
that to most recreational flyers this computes to between 8 and 20 years
before overhaul! Or considering that the cost is only around $18,000 U.S
(or
a little more or less) you could just throw it away and install the spare
M14 that you are carrying around with you in the back of your SR3500, as
spare baggage! A new Lyco 260 H.P. IO-540, through MAM, is $40,000U.S and
a
300 H.P one is $45,000 U.S. and I believe they are 2000 or 2400 hr TBO
engines. Do the math and it pretty much comes down to how you want the
nose
of your SR to look and the bonus is 360 H.P for take off! Even an
overhauled
IO-540 from Leavens (or most others) for a homebuilt is going to set you
back around $40,000 Cdn, + prop + prop governor. The propellor for the
M14
can also be purchased for a lot less money than a new $9,000 + U.S
Hartzell
prop can be!

Apparently the only thing that really ever happens to these engines is
they
do like all radials and bend connecting rods (or blow cylinders off) due
to
"hydraulic" oil lock in the bottom cylinders. Buy one of the cylinder
"drain" kits that's available (and I hope MAM is putting in the FWF kit)
and
also pull the engine through by hand prior to start and you shouldn't
have
any problems.

FWIW, I don't know about the M14, but LOM's M-462 (that is, for all
practical purposes, essentially a de-rated M14 putting out 315H.P) is
allowed 5 overhauls by the LOM factory to remain certified. That is a
Total
Time of 4800 hours before it becomes a "homebuilt" engine!

Best Regards and a Merry Christmas,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14

Add those two factors to the stated TBO of only 800 hours
(although they claim they run MUCH longer ....), and you get a
fairly large number for the hourly operating cost !!
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2 Message:0002 2
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From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: new builder

Hi Bruce

I doubled the lower ones which are under compression & riveted mid span as
well. These ones under compression would be more apt to fail. Having
them
overlapped looks just fine. I have seen a few that began to fail at the
cross over area so that is when I decide to do this. Much easier to do
now
obviously than later. Whatever you do, don't just stick with the 0.020"
lower corner wraps. In my humble opinion only.

Happy Building

Brian #328R

PS Building is satisfying but flying the Rebel is a blast!

-----Original Message-----
From: Legeorgen@cs.com [mailto:Legeorgen@cs.com]
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 11:14 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: new builder



Bob,

I was at the Factory last month and picked up two corner raps and they are
stilled called fus 10, and are still .20 (I just measured one). I was
considering cutting the firewall back but decided not to.

I hear some are doubling up the corner raps? I was not going to take apart
what has been made to install heaver ones, but is it recommended to just
cut
the .20 fus 10's short and rivet them over the originals?

Bruce G 357R
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3 Message:0003 3
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From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Back up

Well the system is back up... don't know for sure what happened yet.

Mike


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4 Message:0004 4
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From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@ozemail.com.au>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Wow - great Photos Grant!

G'day from HOT , sunny OZ Scott !

I made the / a suggestion to MAM four years ago (when we received our
Rebel
kit)
that they should supply a set of photographs with each section to show
exactly what the builder is supposed to make it end up looking
like.....never even got a reply !

They say "a picture is worth a thousand words"......I reckon that if
you're
building an
aeroplane from a couple of manuals, that a picture is worth a MILLION
words
!

Rick & Wendy Harper
Rebel # 541 R

----- Original Message -----
From: hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 20 December 2000 13:39
Subject: Wow - great Photos Grant!

I just received the new manual with tons of photos from Murphy. I am in
heaven. There are probably 150 photographs of things I really needed to
see. They are not labeled or organized real well, but I will spend a
couple of hours doing that. I am quite impressed.


--
Best Regards,

Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
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5 Message:0005 5
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From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@ozemail.com.au>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>,
Subject: Thamks Guys !

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Fellow Rebellers ;

Thanks for all your replies regarding the Navaid Wings Leveller / Auto =
Pilot !

I've e-mailed my order through to Navaid....but I think I missed 'em =
...

Wendy and I hope to have 541 R in the air "Februaryish / Marchish" next =
year .... :-)

Thanks again....and

Merry Chrissy and a Happy New Year to ALL !!!

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C062D7.E4652B20
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>Dear Fellow Rebellers ;</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>Thanks for all your replies regarding the Navaid =
Wings=20
Leveller / Auto Pilot !</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>I've e-mailed my order through to Navaid....but =
I think I=20
missed 'em ....</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>Wendy and I hope to have 541 R in the air =
"Februaryish /=20
Marchish" next year ....&nbsp; :-)</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>Thanks again....and</EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><EM>Merry Chrissy and a Happy New Year to ALL=20
!!!</EM></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C062D7.E4652B20--


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6 Message:0006 6
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From: "Rick Harper" <rjwh@ozemail.com.au>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: Re - previous "HELP" e-mail

G'day Travis !


----- Original Message -----
From: travis underwood <travisunderwood@yahoo.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 20 December 2000 8:43
Subject: Re: Re - previous "HELP" e-mail

G'Day from sunny Arizona-

From someone who lived in New Zealand, the superior
island ;-).
I was told by those "in the know"....that Noooo Zeeland was referred to
as
"the Land of the Wrong Whits Crowd" ?!?!?!?!? :-)
Ok enough of that.. I do not know if the controls are
heavy, but I am guess they are not.

I looked at the Nav Aid device and I think it looks
like a grand idea, especially since you can get an add
on to have it track a hand held GPS. I am going to put
it on my list of "toys/knobs" to add once I get my
airplane.

If you get it please do report on it.

Travis


--- Rick Harper <rjwh@ozemail.com.au> wrote:
Dear Fellow Rebellers :

G'day from sunny (hot) Australia !

I sent an e-mail of a week or so ago regarding a
Flight Instrument (Navaid's Autopilot / Wings
Leveller) .....but because I had "fallen off the
list again"...I'm not sure as to wether it
actually got to you all or not ....so here goes
again ..(my apologies if you've already
seen this one ).

I'm considering buying NAVAID'S..."Autopilot /
Wings Leveller".....as I think it would be
a good thing to have on
l............o..........n...........g......
cross country flights...(don't forget
that OZ is as big as the US of A...with a lot of
NOTHING in the middle !)
And before I get another barrage of comments like"
aw , who told you Australia was as big as
the US of A" comments...PLEASE go and LOOK at a
world GLOBE (spinning ball) and NOT a Mercator chart
(which has LOTS of distortion in it).
The globe (spinning ball) shows the world in true
proportions.....(notice how Greenland is about
1/3rd the size of Australia....but on a Mercator
chart it is shown TWICE as big !)

Anyway...back to the story .

Does anyone out there HAVE one of these items fitted
to their plane ??????

Does anyone KNOW of anyone else with one of these
items fitted to their plane who can give
me an idea of whether or not it is POWERFUL enough
to control a Rebel.
(apparently , the device "has trouble controlling a
plane with HEAVY controls")

Does a Rebel have "heavy controls" compared to a
"regular" plane ?????

Any input would be greatly appreciated ...there are
only twenty or so Rebels being built in OZ...
with only three flying so far...(and I've flown two
of 'em !)

Merry Chrissy everyone !

Rick & Wendy Harper
16 Tor rd, Dee Why,
N.S.W. 2099
Australia
rjwh@ozemail.com.au
rjwh56@hotmail.com
Ph : 02 9971 7889
Mbl : 0416 041 007
O'seas Ph : 612 9971 7889

=====
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Love 'em, but the house is full?
You can still save a life with a R.E.S.C.U.E. sponsorship.
http://www.azrescue.org/
*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products.
http://shopping.yahoo.com/
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7 Message:0007 7
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From: "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Contributions

Just wanted to thank everyone for helping out by contributing towards the
upgrade. As of today I've received $332, so we're all set to move
forward.
Hopefully have the new system ready to ship shortly after the holidays...
could probably have it done before then if it wasn't for the holidays!
Got
to enjoy that family time when you've got it, so I won't be sitting in
front
of the computer all day Christmas day!

Hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season.

Mike


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8 Message:0008 8
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From: hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Old Bungee and an gear question.

I admit that I am cheap. The kit I bought was partially finished. The
uncut/unstretched bungee have been in a dark box for 7 years. I know
that sun and oils will damage the bungees, but can anyone think of a
reason not to use the ones that came with the kit?

Same landing gear, different question: The manual says I have to put
LG-60 & LG-47 as cross-pieces between the main gear and the drag tube.
The LG-XX that Murphy sent is .020 and is C channel. I don't see it
doing a thing to help. Has anyone left out the LG-47 or 60? Has anyone
replaced them with maybe 1 1/2" tube? I guess that I am saying that the
manual and parts don't make any sense at all in this area.


--
Best Regards,

Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com

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9 Message:0009 9
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: corner wraps


Bruce,
You <could> do that - it would definitely help. I did that on one
of my earlier Rebels, when the original FUS-10 cracked - it was just a
temporary repair. Eventually, the old FUS-10's had to have the rivets
drilled out, and were replaced with FUS-70's (.025). Today, I would
just go to the latest FUS-(532 ??) of .032 thickness.

I guess they still sell the FUS-10's, but <I> sure wouldn't use
them up front, unless I were building a Very Light Rebel for use with
a Rotax 912 ONLY.

Personally, if you're not going to move the firewall, I would
strongly recommend replacing at least the bottom FUS-10's with the
heavier corner wraps - if you're going on floats, you WILL have to do
this someday, anyway !
-------
....bobp

-----------------------------orig.----------------------------------------
--
At 11:13 PM 12/22/00 EST, you wrote:
Bob,

I was at the Factory last month and picked up two corner raps and they
are
stilled called fus 10, and are still .20 (I just measured one). I was
considering cutting the firewall back but decided not to.

I hear some are doubling up the corner raps? I was not going to take
apart
what has been made to install heaver ones, but is it recommended to just
cut
the .20 fus 10's short and rivet them over the originals?

Bruce G 357R
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10 Message:0010 10
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From: Legeorgen@cs.com
Subject: Re: new builder
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com

Hi Brian,

Would you drill out the existing rivets on the corner raps, to install the
doublers? Or would you just cut the new ones short and drill new holes
just
inside of the existing rivets?

Spring gear would be a "BIG" job to take apart if I use the existing rivet
holes (one of the reasons I chose not to cut back the firewall).

I don't remember, did you cut back your own firewall?

Bruce G

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11 Message:0011 11
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From: "carol51" <carol51@attcanada.ca>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Turning wing

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Roger 687 =20

Don't worry about bending the spars, they will bend a little.
Two people, one at each end can take hold of the front and rear spar, =
lift off table and turn over. You might want to pull the rear spar off =
the table and roll the wing on the front spar
not taking all the weight off the table. You do not have to disassemle =
the ribs from spars.If you pick the wing up using the rear spar only the =
spars will bend about 2". this did not bend my spars or do any damage to =
the ribs. It's good to be cautious but the spars are pretty strong.

Good luck

------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C06AB6.D5892160
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Roger 687&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Don't worry about bending the spars, they will bend =
a=20
little.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Two people, one at each end can take hold of the =
front and=20
rear spar, lift off table and turn over. You might want to pull the rear =
spar=20
off the table and roll the wing on the front spar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>not taking all the weight off the table. You do not =
have to=20
disassemle the ribs from spars.If you pick the wing up using the rear =
spar only=20
the spars will bend about 2". this did not bend my spars or do any =
damage to the=20
ribs. It's good to be cautious but the spars are pretty =
strong.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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12 Message:0012 12
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: Old Bungee and an gear question.


Hi Scott !

That old bungee is likely still OK - there's lots of it out there
<on aircraft> that is a lot older than 7 years !! :-)

You might find it a LOT easier to install if you make it up into
rings ahead of time - there's a sketch of a tool to do this on the FTP
photos section of the dcsol.com/murphy-rebel site. (bungeetool.jpg ??)

LG-60/47 - this might be a place where a picture would really
help ! I know there is one C channel at the top, between the two tubes,
and another from the front top to the middle of the back tube - both
of these channels are attached to the tubes by triangular gusset plates.
The top (closed side) of the C should be UP, so it doesn't collect water.
The channel is lighter than a tube, adds the strength needed, and is
likely the easiest way to join the square front tube to the round rear
tube. It is also a nice, convenient flat surface to fasten either the
factory-prescribed fabric covering, OR - my preferrence, a formed
Lexan cover for the gear legs. As an aid for this, you might want to
bend up an extra channel, about 1/8" wider than the front tube, and
bolt it onto the back of the front tube using the existing bolts.
This gives you something to rivet the fairing to (with large-head
fabric rivets), as you MUST NOT drill extra holes in the landing gear
tubes for rivets or bolts. (There is a VERY good chance it will
BREAK at the holes if you do !!! :-( )

While early Rebels did not have the diagonal brace, the
factory ADDED it for a good reason ! Without it, the drag tube could
buckle back under heavy loads ....

......bobp

------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 10:59 AM 12/23/00 -0800, you wrote:
I admit that I am cheap. The kit I bought was partially finished. The
uncut/unstretched bungee have been in a dark box for 7 years. I know
that sun and oils will damage the bungees, but can anyone think of a
reason not to use the ones that came with the kit?

Same landing gear, different question: The manual says I have to put
LG-60 & LG-47 as cross-pieces between the main gear and the drag tube.
The LG-XX that Murphy sent is .020 and is C channel. I don't see it
doing a thing to help. Has anyone left out the LG-47 or 60? Has anyone
replaced them with maybe 1 1/2" tube? I guess that I am saying that the
manual and parts don't make any sense at all in this area.


--
Best Regards,

Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
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13 Message:0013 13
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Drew and Jan <drewjan@execulink.com>
Subject: Re: Super (Beaver) Rebel MP-14

My next door neighbor at the hangar is building a pitts model 12
he claims 15-17gph at cruise and 30gph at full throttle
drew

At 08:39 PM 12/19/00 -0500, you wrote:
I've got a question for anyone who knows about the Radial engine for
the Super Rebel. WHAT'S THE FUEL BURN ON THAT BABY? Thanks.
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/


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14 Message:0014 14
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From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: Rebel Builders <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: mixing epoxy

Hello,
Here is a minor tip that may help others. This is handy when you
need to install a small quantity of rivets and don't want to waste a lot
of epoxy. Get yourself a set of measuring spoons that are used in the
kitchen. I confess that I simply took the set that I noticed my wife had
not used for a while. It has spoons from 1/8 teaspoon up to 1 tablespoon
and works great for those small quantity jobs.
Happy holidays to all,
Rick D.


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15 Message:0015 15
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: new builder

HI Bruce

I would be inclined to drill out the existing rivets & back drill to
install
the corner wraps. The area at the cross over (2" square tube area), is
the
one I believe is critical. That is where I have seen cracking in other
Rebels. At that spot, I would definitely want all the material I could
get
to make it stiff in compression & also all corners well radiused to ensure
no crack propogation sites.

As far as the bigger rivets, as they are not stainless here, I would have
no
problem removing these rivets & sliding in the new pieces. This is where
the problems would take place & therefore you want the thickest material.
The large rivets are not really much harder to remove than the smaller
ones
& there would be no more than six per side. In my opinion, just do it.

I also have spring gear & did shorten the firewall. I'm sorry but I don't
understand your explanation for not cutting the firewall back.

Best Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Legeorgen@cs.com [mailto:Legeorgen@cs.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 3:51 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: new builder


Hi Brian,

Would you drill out the existing rivets on the corner raps, to install the
doublers? Or would you just cut the new ones short and drill new holes
just
inside of the existing rivets?

Spring gear would be a "BIG" job to take apart if I use the existing rivet
holes (one of the reasons I chose not to cut back the firewall).

I don't remember, did you cut back your own firewall?

Bruce G
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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16 Message:0016 16
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From: "rebelair" <rebelair@idirect.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: RE: mixing epoxy

Hi

I agree. I did all my epoxy measuring with cheap plastic & stainless
measuring spoons. The stainless ones stand up longer & are easier to wipe
clean which you will want to do after measuring.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard DeCiero [mailto:rsdec1@star.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 8:00 PM
To: Rebel Builders
Subject: mixing epoxy


Hello,
Here is a minor tip that may help others. This is handy when you
need to install a small quantity of rivets and don't want to waste a lot
of epoxy. Get yourself a set of measuring spoons that are used in the
kitchen. I confess that I simply took the set that I noticed my wife had
not used for a while. It has spoons from 1/8 teaspoon up to 1 tablespoon
and works great for those small quantity jobs.
Happy holidays to all,
Rick D.

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17 Message:0017 17
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To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com> (Murphy Rebel Builders List)
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: corner wraps


Hi Bruce !

If you're going to drill the rivets out anyway, you would be
better off to go to the thicker corner wraps ! If you still want to
double-up, you should liberally coat the pieces with epoxy chromate
& put them together wet, then rivet. Without the epoxy, this will
become a moisture trap, and you could have hidden corrosion.

If you DO go to new, thicker corner wraps, many builders now
do NOT trim them - they leave the extra material extending inward, and
add another row of rivets. This will add to the strength of the floor
and side walls....

......bobp

PS
I changed the SUBJECT line above - this is always a "GOOD THING"(tm)
to do when the topic shifts ! :-)

------------------------------orig.-------------------------------------
At 10:53 PM 12/23/00 -0500, you wrote:
HI Bruce

I would be inclined to drill out the existing rivets & back drill to
install
the corner wraps. The area at the cross over (2" square tube area), is
the
one I believe is critical. That is where I have seen cracking in other
Rebels. At that spot, I would definitely want all the material I could
get
to make it stiff in compression & also all corners well radiused to
ensure
no crack propogation sites.

As far as the bigger rivets, as they are not stainless here, I would have
no
problem removing these rivets & sliding in the new pieces. This is where
the problems would take place & therefore you want the thickest material.
The large rivets are not really much harder to remove than the smaller
ones
& there would be no more than six per side. In my opinion, just do it.

I also have spring gear & did shorten the firewall. I'm sorry but I
don't
understand your explanation for not cutting the firewall back.

Best Regards

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: Legeorgen@cs.com [mailto:Legeorgen@cs.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 3:51 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: new builder


Hi Brian,

Would you drill out the existing rivets on the corner raps, to install
the
doublers? Or would you just cut the new ones short and drill new holes
just
inside of the existing rivets?

Spring gear would be a "BIG" job to take apart if I use the existing
rivet
holes (one of the reasons I chose not to cut back the firewall).

I don't remember, did you cut back your own firewall?

Bruce G
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