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[rebel-builders] Doublers
[rebel-builders] Doublers
Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
FWIW we have had some discussion about wrinkles at the bottom of the
wheel well sides just aft of the bulkhead that the gear mounts on. I
decided to increase the strength of the diagonal stringers and to tie
them into the vertical angles (FL202 ??) with a doubler there. A
doubler bonded with proseal might help but I'd sure prefer rivets into
the stringer and the vertical angles.
Drew - Princess Auto has a pneumatic angle drill advertised for $29.
this week. That's even cheaper than that angle attachment thingme for
dremels. Neither will get in as tight as the specialty aviation angle
attachments.
Ken
Walter Klatt wrote:
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wheel well sides just aft of the bulkhead that the gear mounts on. I
decided to increase the strength of the diagonal stringers and to tie
them into the vertical angles (FL202 ??) with a doubler there. A
doubler bonded with proseal might help but I'd sure prefer rivets into
the stringer and the vertical angles.
Drew - Princess Auto has a pneumatic angle drill advertised for $29.
this week. That's even cheaper than that angle attachment thingme for
dremels. Neither will get in as tight as the specialty aviation angle
attachments.
Ken
Walter Klatt wrote:
Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right angle
attachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only on
both sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
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riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right angle
attachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only on
both sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
DrewDrew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
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From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right angle
attachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only on
both sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner
and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess
that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:DrewDrew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to
bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
hi drew let me give you my opinion as to why landing and taxying with
those suspenionless pucks!!!
all that force has to be a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
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those suspenionless pucks!!!
all that force has to be a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right angle
attachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only on
both sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner
and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess
that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:DrewDrew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to
bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
At 09:39 AM 6/27/2007 -0400, you wrote:
was installing the die spring suspension.
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I hope you're right Bob. My pucks are history I found the cracks while Ihi drew let me give you my opinion as to why landing and taxying with
those suspenionless pucks!!!
was installing the die spring suspension.
Drewall that force has to be a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right angle
attachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only on
both sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner
and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess
that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:DrewDrew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to
bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Which pucks did you have, Drew, original thin ones that squish out, or the
newer stiff thick ones?
I still have my blue Elite nosewheel ones on mine, and they are still firm
as new.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 7:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
At 09:39 AM 6/27/2007 -0400, you wrote:
was installing the die spring suspension.
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newer stiff thick ones?
I still have my blue Elite nosewheel ones on mine, and they are still firm
as new.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 7:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
At 09:39 AM 6/27/2007 -0400, you wrote:
I hope you're right Bob. My pucks are history I found the cracks while Ihi drew let me give you my opinion as to why landing and taxying with
those suspenionless pucks!!!
was installing the die spring suspension.
angleall that force has to be a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a right
onattachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float only
Drewboth sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner
and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess
that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
aDalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to
bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get
DrewDrewright angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Mine were the origional ones that came withthe kit. Yellow and yes they
squished out they also seemed to set in the squished state. On Bob Fishers
floats you can bounce up and down on them and see lots of movement on mine
there was nothing.
At 07:11 AM 6/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:
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squished out they also seemed to set in the squished state. On Bob Fishers
floats you can bounce up and down on them and see lots of movement on mine
there was nothing.
At 07:11 AM 6/27/2007 -0700, you wrote:
DrewWhich pucks did you have, Drew, original thin ones that squish out, or the
newer stiff thick ones?
I still have my blue Elite nosewheel ones on mine, and they are still firm
as new.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 7:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
At 09:39 AM 6/27/2007 -0400, you wrote:I hope you're right Bob. My pucks are history I found the cracks while Ihi drew let me give you my opinion as to why landing and taxying with
those suspenionless pucks!!!
was installing the die spring suspension.
angleall that force has to be a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Thanks for the responses guys. I guess the concensus is that it needs
riveted. I don't have a compressor at the hangar so I'll get a rightonattachment for an electric drill. The cracks are on the left float onlyDrewboth sides of the wheelwell side skins right at the bottom front corner
and
just behind the attach angle. As for what caused them I can only guess
that
it taxiing on rough surfaces or a bad landing I don't remember any real
stinkers but thet're the ones you want to forget. I'll try to get some
pictures this week.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:aDrewDrew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
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about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
DrewDrew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks are,
and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float wheelwell.
No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear apart
to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Drew
The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season is over?
Ray
-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
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-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
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-> >
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-> >
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-> >
-> >
-> Drew
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The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season is over?
Ray
-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to bond
-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to get a
-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be fairly
-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> >
-> >
-> Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
At 10:09 PM 6/30/2007 -0900, you wrote:
Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers today
about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping that
is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be to
remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way to
the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more structure
tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle plus
the bottom skin.
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over?Drew
The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season is
Mine is similar to what Ken described and the springs are the same as bothRay
Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers today
about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping that
is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be to
remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way to
the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more structure
tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle plus
the bottom skin.
bond-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary to
get a-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to
fairly-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
Drew-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
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-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
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-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> Drew
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi Drew
My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
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My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Hmmm, you guys have me worried now. I am going to have a closer look at
mine. I assume these cracks and creases are only visible from inside the
wheel well. There is a lot of grease and crap in there on mine, and haven't
had a close look for a while. However, I have had my fair share of rough
water landings and take-offs, as well as been on some rough landing strips.
I will say, though, that I have not had to retighten any of my drag wires
since the first tightening after the initial flights on floats many years
ago (400+ hours). Also, my rear float hard points, which don't have that
doubler, have not shown any sign of buckling on the side. And I do check
them real carefully every time after a rough water landing.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Angus
McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 5:59 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi Drew
My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
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mine. I assume these cracks and creases are only visible from inside the
wheel well. There is a lot of grease and crap in there on mine, and haven't
had a close look for a while. However, I have had my fair share of rough
water landings and take-offs, as well as been on some rough landing strips.
I will say, though, that I have not had to retighten any of my drag wires
since the first tightening after the initial flights on floats many years
ago (400+ hours). Also, my rear float hard points, which don't have that
doubler, have not shown any sign of buckling on the side. And I do check
them real carefully every time after a rough water landing.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Angus
McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 5:59 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi Drew
My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
I thougt I did a good inspection at the end of the season last year but
missed it completely. If the gear is down it's hard to see the cracks from
below but you can see them by looking through the inspection hatch. The
cracks were only on the left float and my rear hard points have no damage
yet either. As for rough water I try to avoid waves over a foot high. I
scared myself last year on lake huron in big waves when I got sideways in
the surf and had gallons of spray coming in through the open window. I was
soaked and there was water sloshing around on the floor.
At 07:04 AM 7/3/2007 -0700, you wrote:
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missed it completely. If the gear is down it's hard to see the cracks from
below but you can see them by looking through the inspection hatch. The
cracks were only on the left float and my rear hard points have no damage
yet either. As for rough water I try to avoid waves over a foot high. I
scared myself last year on lake huron in big waves when I got sideways in
the surf and had gallons of spray coming in through the open window. I was
soaked and there was water sloshing around on the floor.
At 07:04 AM 7/3/2007 -0700, you wrote:
DrewHmmm, you guys have me worried now. I am going to have a closer look at
mine. I assume these cracks and creases are only visible from inside the
wheel well. There is a lot of grease and crap in there on mine, and haven't
had a close look for a while. However, I have had my fair share of rough
water landings and take-offs, as well as been on some rough landing strips.
I will say, though, that I have not had to retighten any of my drag wires
since the first tightening after the initial flights on floats many years
ago (400+ hours). Also, my rear float hard points, which don't have that
doubler, have not shown any sign of buckling on the side. And I do check
them real carefully every time after a rough water landing.
Walter
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Angus
McKenzie
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 5:59 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi Drew
My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
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[rebel-builders] Doublers
Hi Angus Were you scouting Port Dover for docking space on the 13th? :)
At 08:59 AM 7/3/2007 -0400, you wrote:
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At 08:59 AM 7/3/2007 -0400, you wrote:
DrewHi Drew
My floats are cracked like yours.
Have to retighten the front drag wires today, landing and take-off from Lake
Erie yesterday with waves near 1 meter and got pounded.........Angus
----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also put
up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
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