1st, thanks Bob for the name and address of the fellow with the sling
seats. I wrote him a letter and if I get any photos, I'll send them to
Wray and post them on my site as well.
2nd, I am testing my fuel tank (the top is not on yet) by using water.
The molecular size is smaller than gas. Anyone else used water for the
1st test (the 2nd will be air once the top is on)? Is there any reason
to think that leaks might show up better as a reaction to gas
(separation, bubbling, etc.)? The spec sheet on proseal shows it has
been test with salt water and jet fuel.
Leakless (so far) in Vancouver
Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
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Gas vs H20 and back seat thanks
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
Gas vs H20 and back seat thanks
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Your following message has been delivered to the 155 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 10:28:23 on 14 May 2000.
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Scott, the only thing with water is that it has a better "surface tension"
than fuel and won't leach through as well on pin holes. Should give you a
good enough indication to get you to the pressure stage though! I prefer to
tip the wing "nose down" so you can get as much fuel in them as you can
before putting the top skin down. Just put your cigarette out before you
start, have all the light switches turned on that you will need on, and
don't start up your bench grinder! If you don't have another plane to dump
the fuel into when you are done, or already own 5- 20litre jerry cans, the
water method looks better already! (that's how I did my first set)
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: Gas vs H20 and back seat thanks
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Archives located at:
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Your following message has been delivered to the 155 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 10:28:23 on 14 May 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Scott, the only thing with water is that it has a better "surface tension"
than fuel and won't leach through as well on pin holes. Should give you a
good enough indication to get you to the pressure stage though! I prefer to
tip the wing "nose down" so you can get as much fuel in them as you can
before putting the top skin down. Just put your cigarette out before you
start, have all the light switches turned on that you will need on, and
don't start up your bench grinder! If you don't have another plane to dump
the fuel into when you are done, or already own 5- 20litre jerry cans, the
water method looks better already! (that's how I did my first set)
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Hibbs <hibbs@pacifier.com>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders List <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 10:01 AM
Subject: Gas vs H20 and back seat thanks
---------*1st, thanks Bob for the name and address of the fellow with the sling
seats. I wrote him a letter and if I get any photos, I'll send them to
Wray and post them on my site as well.
2nd, I am testing my fuel tank (the top is not on yet) by using water.
The molecular size is smaller than gas. Anyone else used water for the
1st test (the 2nd will be air once the top is on)? Is there any reason
to think that leaks might show up better as a reaction to gas
(separation, bubbling, etc.)? The spec sheet on proseal shows it has
been test with salt water and jet fuel.
Leakless (so far) in Vancouver
Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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-
Bob Patterson
Gas vs H20 and back seat thanks
You might also send the JPG's along to Mike to post for this list ...
Several builders have used water for the first test - it certainly
is safer. :-) It seems that fuel will find leaks that water doesn't -
I'm surprised that the molecules of fuel are larger !
Something mentioned at yesterday's builders meeting - you might
check first with a LIGHT, in a darkened room ! One of our builders
suggested he could have saved a lot of grief (and gas) by doing this first !!
One comment was that you won't have leaks anywhere where you have a good
fillet. Some folks are fitting the top stringers with 2 J patches, one on
each side, prosealing after fitting the first, then adding the second.
Make sure the J cutout is open enough for lots of proseal to ooze through.
Some are even fitting the top stringers & prosealing with the top in place,
held with clecoes, BEFORE the final fastening of the top. They put waxed
paper between the tank top & the proseal, so the top doesn't get stuck
down at this point. The top comes off, additional proseal is added where
needed, THEN the final layer of proseal goes on, and the top is positioned
with lengths of drill rod in the holes, slid down & clecoed. The top is
rivetted with the air pressure about 20 lb. - enough to tension the rivets,
but not break them. This continues until all the rivets are in, and the
proseal has oozed a bit. The air pressure is then turned up, and the
rivets re-pulled. Then the air pressure is turned to normal, and the
rivets are popped.
Good luck !!
....bobp
-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 07:06 AM 5/14/00 -0700, you wrote:
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Several builders have used water for the first test - it certainly
is safer. :-) It seems that fuel will find leaks that water doesn't -
I'm surprised that the molecules of fuel are larger !
Something mentioned at yesterday's builders meeting - you might
check first with a LIGHT, in a darkened room ! One of our builders
suggested he could have saved a lot of grief (and gas) by doing this first !!
One comment was that you won't have leaks anywhere where you have a good
fillet. Some folks are fitting the top stringers with 2 J patches, one on
each side, prosealing after fitting the first, then adding the second.
Make sure the J cutout is open enough for lots of proseal to ooze through.
Some are even fitting the top stringers & prosealing with the top in place,
held with clecoes, BEFORE the final fastening of the top. They put waxed
paper between the tank top & the proseal, so the top doesn't get stuck
down at this point. The top comes off, additional proseal is added where
needed, THEN the final layer of proseal goes on, and the top is positioned
with lengths of drill rod in the holes, slid down & clecoed. The top is
rivetted with the air pressure about 20 lb. - enough to tension the rivets,
but not break them. This continues until all the rivets are in, and the
proseal has oozed a bit. The air pressure is then turned up, and the
rivets re-pulled. Then the air pressure is turned to normal, and the
rivets are popped.
Good luck !!
....bobp
-------------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 07:06 AM 5/14/00 -0700, you wrote:
---------*1st, thanks Bob for the name and address of the fellow with the sling
seats. I wrote him a letter and if I get any photos, I'll send them to
Wray and post them on my site as well.
2nd, I am testing my fuel tank (the top is not on yet) by using water.
The molecular size is smaller than gas. Anyone else used water for the
1st test (the 2nd will be air once the top is on)? Is there any reason
to think that leaks might show up better as a reaction to gas
(separation, bubbling, etc.)? The spec sheet on proseal shows it has
been test with salt water and jet fuel.
Leakless (so far) in Vancouver
Scott Hibbs
hibbs@pacifier.com
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
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*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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