fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

Keith Leitch · Post by **Keith Leitch** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so they
are level. What is best to use to form them to be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I use a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Jones, Michael · Post by **Jones, Michael** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

keith

ribs straightened out ?? the wing ribs ?? what's wrong with them ?/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Keith Leitch
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 3:34 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders
Subject: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so they
are level. What is best to use to form them to be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I use a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Keith Leitch · Post by **Keith Leitch** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

They are rather curved. Especially the solid ones.
Just wanted them to be a little straighter befor
assembling them. Makes it easier to work with.
Keith

--- "Jones, Michael" <Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
wrote:

keith

ribs straightened out ?? the wing ribs ?? what's
wrong with them ?/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Keith Leitch
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 3:34 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders
Subject: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so they
are level. What is best to use to form them to be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I use
a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

Use the shrinker/stretcher and you won't have to worry about where rivets
are...as you will if you use the fluting pliers. There should be very little
work required to get the wing ribs to sit straight though. Don't over do it
and a few places CAN be slightly tweeked using the fluting pliers...there'll
be no way around it on the very front edges of the FUS-27's (fus root ribs)
when you get there. Once you've used the shrinker/stretcher enough it
becomes second nature and you'll find how little pressure it takes to form
thing properly. I've made good use of mine over the years, including such
things as shrinking the edges of a Super Cub tank cover skin, for a nice
fit, with minimal effort much to the amazement of numerous fellow RAA
chapter members that had played with the fit for over a week. I made it fit
the curve of the wing perfect in 15 minutes tops!

I just did all the bulkheads and false bulkheads for a set of 1800 amphibs
this week. Looks like a daunting task, from the way MAM supplies them, with
all those joggles from rough forming facing out....but less than 6 hours had
all 26 bulkheads and 14 false bulkheads shaped and formed to sit flat
...without working up a sweat (or too many curse words!)

Wayne

Keith Leitch · Post by **Keith Leitch** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

Thanks Wayne! That is the reason I wanted to use the
shrinker/stretcher..to avoid worrying about the
rivets.
Most of the ribs a re pretty good..its the solid ones
that need some work.
Keith

--- "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca> wrote:

Use the shrinker/stretcher and you won't have to
worry about where rivets
are...as you will if you use the fluting pliers.
There should be very little
work required to get the wing ribs to sit straight
though. Don't over do it
and a few places CAN be slightly tweeked using the
fluting pliers...there'll
be no way around it on the very front edges of the
FUS-27's (fus root ribs)
when you get there. Once you've used the
shrinker/stretcher enough it
becomes second nature and you'll find how little
pressure it takes to form
thing properly. I've made good use of mine over the
years, including such
things as shrinking the edges of a Super Cub tank
cover skin, for a nice
fit, with minimal effort much to the amazement of
numerous fellow RAA
chapter members that had played with the fit for
over a week. I made it fit
the curve of the wing perfect in 15 minutes tops!

I just did all the bulkheads and false bulkheads for
a set of 1800 amphibs
this week. Looks like a daunting task, from the way
MAM supplies them, with
all those joggles from rough forming facing
out....but less than 6 hours had
all 26 bulkheads and 14 false bulkheads shaped and
formed to sit flat
...without working up a sweat (or too many curse
words!)

Wayne
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Leitch" <im_planecrazy@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: RE: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

They are rather curved. Especially the solid ones.
Just wanted them to be a little straighter befor
assembling them. Makes it easier to work with.
Keith

--- "Jones, Michael"
<Michael.Jones@snclavalin.com>
wrote:

keith

ribs straightened out ?? the wing ribs ?? what's
wrong with them ?/

mike#007

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Keith Leitch
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 3:34 PM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders
Subject: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so
they
are level. What is best to use to form them to
be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I
use
a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Mike Kimball · Post by **Mike Kimball** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

I spent a pleasant afternoon sitting on the deck with my fluting pliers and
a pile of ribs and had no trouble getting them straight that way. I have a
shrinker/stretcher as well and have not found it to be very useful. You
could do it with either tool, but I think the fluting pliers are a lot
easier and works just fine.

In answer to Mike Jones question, I assume Keith's ribs are not straight as
a result of the manufacturing process that created the flange. That gives
them a bit of a curve that needs to be removed. Again, an easy process with
the pliers.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Keith
Leitch
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 11:34 AM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders
Subject: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so they
are level. What is best to use to form them to be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I use a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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lawsondj · Post by **lawsondj** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

Only problem with the fluting pliers is you have to avoid the plier indenations when laying out the rivet holes whereas the shrinker leaves a flat surface to rivet against.

Jack, SR193

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Mike Kimball <mkimball@gci.net>

I spent a pleasant afternoon sitting on the deck with my fluting pliers and
a pile of ribs and had no trouble getting them straight that way. I have a
shrinker/stretcher as well and have not found it to be very useful. You
could do it with either tool, but I think the fluting pliers are a lot
easier and works just fine.

In answer to Mike Jones question, I assume Keith's ribs are not straight as
a result of the manufacturing process that created the flange. That gives
them a bit of a curve that needs to be removed. Again, an easy process with
the pliers.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Keith
Leitch
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 11:34 AM
To: Murphy Rebel Builders
Subject: fluting pliers/shrinker-stretcher

I am trying to get the ribs straightened out so they
are level. What is best to use to form them to be
level? I have a shrinker/stretcher, or should I use a
fluting plier?

Thanks,
Keith R661

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

Yes but it's easy to put a mark where the rivets go and fluting pliers
don't leave those indent ridges from the shrinker jaws running through
a rivet hole and itching to start a crack. Perhaps I just haven't
figured out how to use a shrinker gently enough but I'm not impressed
with the surface mine leaves behind. It shrinks wonderfully but I don't
like what's left behind for structural parts??
Ken

lawsondj@comcast.net wrote:

Only problem with the fluting pliers is you have to avoid the plier indenations when laying out the rivet holes whereas the shrinker leaves a flat surface to rivet against.

Jack, SR193

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Drew Dalgleish · Post by **Drew Dalgleish** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

At 08:47 AM 1/21/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Yes but it's easy to put a mark where the rivets go and fluting pliers
don't leave those indent ridges from the shrinker jaws running through
a rivet hole and itching to start a crack. Perhaps I just haven't
figured out how to use a shrinker gently enough but I'm not impressed
with the surface mine leaves behind. It shrinks wonderfully but I don't
like what's left behind for structural parts??
Ken

Hi Ken I found that small squeezes work best then clean up all the little
lines with a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder.
Drew

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John Kramer · Post by **John Kramer** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

The Tin Man (Kent White) http://www.tinmantech.com/index.php was
showing replacement jaws (at Oshkosh) for a Lancaster that don't
groove the surface like the regular Lancaster's. He had a shrinker
hooked up on a washing machine vacuum pump to free both hands to the work.

John...

At 07:02 PM 01/22/06, you wrote:

At 08:47 AM 1/21/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Yes but it's easy to put a mark where the rivets go and fluting pliers
don't leave those indent ridges from the shrinker jaws running through
a rivet hole and itching to start a crack. Perhaps I just haven't
figured out how to use a shrinker gently enough but I'm not impressed
with the surface mine leaves behind. It shrinks wonderfully but I don't
like what's left behind for structural parts??
Ken
Hi Ken I found that small squeezes work best then clean up all the little
lines with a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder.
Drew

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Ken · Post by **Ken** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:45 pm

That's interesting. I've considered smoothing the jaw serrations a bit
since they are not much good to me the way they are anyway.
thanks John and Drew.

Ken

John Kramer wrote:

The Tin Man (Kent White) http://www.tinmantech.com/index.php was
showing replacement jaws (at Oshkosh) for a Lancaster that don't
groove the surface like the regular Lancaster's. He had a shrinker
hooked up on a washing machine vacuum pump to free both hands to the work.

John...

At 07:02 PM 01/22/06, you wrote:

At 08:47 AM 1/21/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Yes but it's easy to put a mark where the rivets go and fluting pliers
don't leave those indent ridges from the shrinker jaws running through
a rivet hole and itching to start a crack. Perhaps I just haven't
figured out how to use a shrinker gently enough but I'm not impressed
with the surface mine leaves behind. It shrinks wonderfully but I don't
like what's left behind for structural parts??
Ken

Hi Ken I found that small squeezes work best then clean up all the little
lines with a scotchbrite pad on a die grinder.
Drew

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