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To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: REBEL:- Re: Landing Gear
Message-Id: <E0xnDev-0002Ex-00@mail.istar.ca>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:13:26 -0500
At 03:25 PM 12/30/97 -0600, you wrote:
I know of 3 Rebels that lost at least part of a gear leg -To the List:
I was talking to another fellow Rebel Builder this morning. He was telling
me that 6-8 Rebels have lost their Bungee landing gear. I know of 3 of
them myself I also know that none of them failed due to landing gear
faults( a few were ground loops). He was telling me that they replaced
the aluminum landing gear with a 4130 steel landing gear. They make the
parts the same demensions as the factory landing gear just substituted
steel for aluminum. They also used Bungee loops which I know makes it
easier. Certainly the steel would add some wieght but would also be
vastily stronger and less prone to wear. Of course the other option is the
spring steel gear. My rebel is basically ready to fly therefore I dread to
tear the floor apart for the upgrade. Any comments from anyone.
Del
Rebel 286R
ALL were groundloops or dropped in from over 30 feet !!
I also know of ONE flying Rebel that had the gear replaced
with 4130 Steel - it has failed TWICE that I have heard of !! Be VERY
careful about "beefing up" one part of the aircraft - it may well MOVE
the stresses to an area you don't want or expect !!!
The Rebel has been designed to PROTECT THE PILOT - almost
everything in the design was meant to CRUMPLE PROGRESSIVELY, absorbing
energy. The double floor in the cockpit adds strength, AND will save
your spine if you really hit hard !
The 2 local Rebels that bent the gear were flying again within
a few days, with relatively little damage. The pilots didn't get a scratch
!! Perhaps if the gear was stronger, the fuselage frame, wings, and the
pilots
might not have been so lucky !!
Don't worry ! If you built your gear according to the plans,
it is plenty strong enough !!! (It's also about 28 lb. lighter !) If you
build streamlined fairings for all the gear legs (alum. or 1/32 LEXAN),
you can pick up about 10 mph, as well. (The Lexan is MUCH easier to
work, paints well, and allows peep holes for easy inspection !)
The pre-made bungee rings are a GREAT idea - Ron Barber has
an easy method for making your own, pre-stretched. I may be able to find
a drawing here somewhere ... If you want to buy them, the part number
is > 9044 < (this means 9/16" dia. by 4.4 inches inside dia of loop)
I use 2 on the front and 2 on the back, on each side, and you can drop
a third one on top if you have a heavier airplane. The trick is to put
the bolts through the gear legs so that the top bolt has the head at
the FRONT and the bottom bolt has the head at the BACK - this leaves
the head and washer to slip the ring over, then you can stretch the
ring down with a come-along, or even a ratchet tie-down strap from Can.
Tire. When you have the ring stretched, just slip a large screwdriver in
& pop it over the bolt stem. One more, then add the washer, and go to the
other side.
Using rings instead of one long piece of bungee is a LOT easier -
both to install, AND to guarantee that you have consistent tension. Almost
EVERY Rebel I know of that used one-piece bungees had them go SLACK after
a few hours of flying. It is just VERY difficult to pull that bungee on
around the bolts and get it tight enough !!
Glad to hear you're so far along - look forward to hearing about the
first flights !! If there's anything we can do here to help, just call !
If you get down to Toronto, our next Rebel Builders meeting is :
Sunday Jan. 11, at 1:00 pm at the RAA clubhouse at the north end of
Brampton Airport (NC3). Everyone welcome - we have Rebels, Super Rebels,
a Maverick, some Renegades, and maybe an Elite !!
Good luck !!! .....bobp
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