Does anyone have any float rigging (rudder) pictures available for the
Rebel? I am looking for how the cables were routed especially the ones, to
lift the water rudders.
Also has anyone added a step to the float struts to aid in entering and
exiting the airplane.
Thank You,
Del Schmucker
Information Systems Manager
Keewatin-Patricia District School Board
807-223-1254
807-221-8769 Cell
807-223-4703 Fax
del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca
www.kpdsb.on.ca
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float pictures
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Legeorgen
float pictures
Del,
I'm not sure any pics are left on the list but you can contact MAM and pay
them $20 (?) for their CD with several hundred pictures of the factory Elite on
floats, from every angle. It was a great help in mounting the floats.
Bruce
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I'm not sure any pics are left on the list but you can contact MAM and pay
them $20 (?) for their CD with several hundred pictures of the factory Elite on
floats, from every angle. It was a great help in mounting the floats.
Bruce
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Bob Patterson
float pictures
Hi Del !
No photos, but most folks do add a step - or 2 ! Often the front one
joins the 2 front supports, and extends forward a foot or so, to make it
easier to refuel. A rear step would be a bit lower, and would join the
front & rear struts - NOTE: they are on different angles, so you must
make up an angled spacer under one end to get it straight.
For material - I used a piece of the streamlined strut material, wide
side up, but many builders have used 1 1/2" alum. angle. Saw a nice one
made from 2 pieces of 1 1/2" angle back-to-back - provided a 3" step without
too much weight.... ground off the corners to reduce weight & injury ! ;-)
.......bobp
---------------------------------------orig.--------------------------
On Thursday 24 June 2004 09:41 am, del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca wrote:
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No photos, but most folks do add a step - or 2 ! Often the front one
joins the 2 front supports, and extends forward a foot or so, to make it
easier to refuel. A rear step would be a bit lower, and would join the
front & rear struts - NOTE: they are on different angles, so you must
make up an angled spacer under one end to get it straight.
For material - I used a piece of the streamlined strut material, wide
side up, but many builders have used 1 1/2" alum. angle. Saw a nice one
made from 2 pieces of 1 1/2" angle back-to-back - provided a 3" step without
too much weight.... ground off the corners to reduce weight & injury ! ;-)
.......bobp
---------------------------------------orig.--------------------------
On Thursday 24 June 2004 09:41 am, del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca wrote:
Does anyone have any float rigging (rudder) pictures available for the
Rebel? I am looking for how the cables were routed especially the ones, to
lift the water rudders.
Also has anyone added a step to the float struts to aid in entering and
exiting the airplane.
Thank You,
Del Schmucker
Information Systems Manager
Keewatin-Patricia District School Board
807-223-1254
807-221-8769 Cell
807-223-4703 Fax
del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca
www.kpdsb.on.ca
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N.Smith
float pictures
Hi All
I have a collection of float pics, mostly Elite.
If you are on a broadband connection let me know and I'll send them over to
you
Nigel
745E
admin@airnig.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Legeorgen@aol.com
Sent: 24 June 2004 15:28
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float pictures
Del,
I'm not sure any pics are left on the list but you can contact MAM and pay
them $20 (?) for their CD with several hundred pictures of the factory Elite
on
floats, from every angle. It was a great help in mounting the floats.
Bruce
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I have a collection of float pics, mostly Elite.
If you are on a broadband connection let me know and I'll send them over to
you
Nigel
745E
admin@airnig.co.uk
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Legeorgen@aol.com
Sent: 24 June 2004 15:28
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: float pictures
Del,
I'm not sure any pics are left on the list but you can contact MAM and pay
them $20 (?) for their CD with several hundred pictures of the factory Elite
on
floats, from every angle. It was a great help in mounting the floats.
Bruce
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Ken
float pictures
Have uploaded 3 pics of steps and one of a rudder.
Don't forget to consider Wayne's spring mod on the water rudder.
The factory elite has a nice lever on the floor to retract the water
rudders but I don't think they did anything special with the cables.
Ken
del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca wrote:
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Don't forget to consider Wayne's spring mod on the water rudder.
The factory elite has a nice lever on the floor to retract the water
rudders but I don't think they did anything special with the cables.
Ken
del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca wrote:
Does anyone have any float rigging (rudder) pictures available for the
Rebel? I am looking for how the cables were routed especially the ones, to
lift the water rudders.
Also has anyone added a step to the float struts to aid in entering and
exiting the airplane
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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Wayne G. O'Shea
float pictures
Del, Posted a picture of the way I do the steps. These allow to walk right
up and sit down in the seat. The front one is extended past the forward
strut and you can stand on it backwards and put a 5 gallon can into the tank
without falling off. I also extend the rear step past the rear strut so you
can look up over the wing or clean your skylights.
Material is extruded angle that just happens to come out as a nice level
step. Top surface is ridged for a no slip surface. Extremely strong and the
safest way to do it. Using the steamline strut tubes for steps can be a VERY
hazourdous way and 90* angle just doesn't do the trick (and not too fun in
bare feet either!!). I've seen lots of "on the cheap" ways to do steps, and
most look just that "cheap" or ugly. Figure you have $$$$$ tied up in the
airplane already, why not expend another $300 or so for the proper material.
Probably can get it cheaper if you live closer to Kenmore Air, but I pay
anywhere between $22 and $31/foot for the stuff from Orillia Aviation. I use
6' per side for a total of 12'
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 9:41 AM
Subject: float pictures
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up and sit down in the seat. The front one is extended past the forward
strut and you can stand on it backwards and put a 5 gallon can into the tank
without falling off. I also extend the rear step past the rear strut so you
can look up over the wing or clean your skylights.
Material is extruded angle that just happens to come out as a nice level
step. Top surface is ridged for a no slip surface. Extremely strong and the
safest way to do it. Using the steamline strut tubes for steps can be a VERY
hazourdous way and 90* angle just doesn't do the trick (and not too fun in
bare feet either!!). I've seen lots of "on the cheap" ways to do steps, and
most look just that "cheap" or ugly. Figure you have $$$$$ tied up in the
airplane already, why not expend another $300 or so for the proper material.
Probably can get it cheaper if you live closer to Kenmore Air, but I pay
anywhere between $22 and $31/foot for the stuff from Orillia Aviation. I use
6' per side for a total of 12'
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 9:41 AM
Subject: float pictures
Does anyone have any float rigging (rudder) pictures available for the
Rebel? I am looking for how the cables were routed especially the ones, to
lift the water rudders.
Also has anyone added a step to the float struts to aid in entering and
exiting the airplane.
Thank You,
Del Schmucker
Information Systems Manager
Keewatin-Patricia District School Board
807-223-1254
807-221-8769 Cell
807-223-4703 Fax
del.schmucker@kpdsb.on.ca
www.kpdsb.on.ca
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Rebflyer
float pictures
Hi Del, for the step on my floats I found "t" stock 2.5 on the top with 1in
on the bottom t. I ran the top thru a table saw carbide blade to make groves
the length and then drilled holes with a step drill to lighten. the taper of
the step drill looks good too. When mounting on the struts I mixed an epoxy
putty, wrapped in plastic wrap squished into place and let dry. then trimmed the
dried block to length and finished bolting it on. 23.00 us cost. be sure to
let the step hang by enough to use to reach the fuel fill. sorry no pic's Curt
n97mr
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on the bottom t. I ran the top thru a table saw carbide blade to make groves
the length and then drilled holes with a step drill to lighten. the taper of
the step drill looks good too. When mounting on the struts I mixed an epoxy
putty, wrapped in plastic wrap squished into place and let dry. then trimmed the
dried block to length and finished bolting it on. 23.00 us cost. be sure to
let the step hang by enough to use to reach the fuel fill. sorry no pic's Curt
n97mr
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