Rebel Windshield Installation

rognal · Post by **rognal** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

When using the FUS-13 aluminum retainers for the side of the windshield, as
shown in Wayne's series of photo's in the archives, how far should the
windshield overlap the FUS-9's?

The manual says the windshield overlap should be one inch, but that is with
the fiberglass retainer up the sides. Putting the FUS-13's up against a one
inch overlap places the retainer well aft on the FUS-9 and IMO looks funky.
That's with the narrow flange of the FUS-13 on the 'glass' by 3/8ths of an
inch.

Thanks for any help,

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Roger, I'm doing a new windshield (retrofit from an old Lexan sheet to
moulded) right now and I scratch my head everytime I do one as well so don't
feel bad!!

I can probably send you some newer pictures close up of it if
you require same!

I overlapped the windshield 1" onto the triangular Fus-9's this time and now
that you brought it up probably should have been a bit less. The Fus-13
material is about 1 1/2" wide. The smaller braked edge is the rear edge and
the larger braked edge is the windshield side. Bolts go in the flat are
between. I overlap the Fus-13 onto the windshield almost to the brake line
of the wider edge. This amount of Fus-13 overlap leaves about 1/2" of the
Fus-9 visible through the windshield. Looking at others I've done leaves
about 1/4".... so Most likely I have used 3/4" windshield overlap in the
past. If you want none showing you'd have to cut the windshield overlap down
to 1/2", but I really don't think that is sufficient. I find that the way I
do it allows the bolts to space very well when you get near the top of the
retainer strip (inside for the nut between the carrythrough and the braked
fwd edge of the Fus-9).

Remember to paint the fuselage areas that will be covered by the windshield,
before installation. Nothing looks worse than a nicely painted Rebel with
bare aluminum ringing the windshield area.

Also..NEVER use a can of fiberglass resin that you've had sitting around on
the shelf since the last windshield you installed to make the retainer lip.
Don't know how many times I have taught myself this lesson in the last 11
years but I NEVER seem to learn from it. Last one went fine with premeasured
coke cups of resin (2 ounces each x 4 cups) and 6 to 8 drops of catalyst per
cup.... just before needing each one for each of the 4 layers of cloth. This
time I grabbed the 3/4 full can, that I had on the shelf, and couldn't get
from one side of the cloth to the other before it jelled. Of course once you
start..you can't stop so the mess gets worse and worse as you go (doing dumb
things like brushing straight resin into the mess for cloth absorption and
then making brush strokes over top with a brush soaked in the catalyst). I'm
now 2 weeks and still waiting for some of it to harden (and praying that the
MEK didn't make it through the tape and onto the windshield!). Will see what
happens when I peel it, but think I'll be starting again!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 6:33 PM
Subject: Rebel Windshield Installation

When using the FUS-13 aluminum retainers for the side of the windshield,

as

shown in Wayne's series of photo's in the archives, how far should the
windshield overlap the FUS-9's?

The manual says the windshield overlap should be one inch, but that is

with

the fiberglass retainer up the sides. Putting the FUS-13's up against a

one

inch overlap places the retainer well aft on the FUS-9 and IMO looks

funky.

That's with the narrow flange of the FUS-13 on the 'glass' by 3/8ths of an
inch.

Thanks for any help,

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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Wayne G. O'Shea · Post by **Wayne G. O'Shea** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:05 am

Roger, After typing that I just realized that I did the latest retainer
strips backwards (reverted back to old way!) to the way I have been doing
them on the last 4 or 5!. The proper way....that I was finding worked
well.... was to use the wide braked edge as the bolting section and put the
flat center area and small braked edge overlapped onto the windshield. This
makes that 1" windshield overlap of the Fus-9 almost disappear from view and
when you tighten the bolts the retainer will tip down against the
windshield. Either way works...I just have to start paying attention to my
own improvement pictures before I do the next installations!!

Look closely at the pictures in the archives and this is what's done in
those ones.

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Rebel Windshield Installation

Roger, I'm doing a new windshield (retrofit from an old Lexan sheet to
moulded) right now and I scratch my head everytime I do one as well so

don't

feel bad!! I can probably send you some newer pictures close up of it

if

you require same!

I overlapped the windshield 1" onto the triangular Fus-9's this time and

now

that you brought it up probably should have been a bit less. The Fus-13
material is about 1 1/2" wide. The smaller braked edge is the rear edge

and

the larger braked edge is the windshield side. Bolts go in the flat are
between. I overlap the Fus-13 onto the windshield almost to the brake line
of the wider edge. This amount of Fus-13 overlap leaves about 1/2" of the
Fus-9 visible through the windshield. Looking at others I've done leaves
about 1/4".... so Most likely I have used 3/4" windshield overlap in the
past. If you want none showing you'd have to cut the windshield overlap

down

to 1/2", but I really don't think that is sufficient. I find that the way

I

do it allows the bolts to space very well when you get near the top of the
retainer strip (inside for the nut between the carrythrough and the braked
fwd edge of the Fus-9).

Remember to paint the fuselage areas that will be covered by the

windshield,

before installation. Nothing looks worse than a nicely painted Rebel with
bare aluminum ringing the windshield area.

Also..NEVER use a can of fiberglass resin that you've had sitting around

on

the shelf since the last windshield you installed to make the retainer

lip.

Don't know how many times I have taught myself this lesson in the last 11
years but I NEVER seem to learn from it. Last one went fine with

premeasured

coke cups of resin (2 ounces each x 4 cups) and 6 to 8 drops of catalyst

per

cup.... just before needing each one for each of the 4 layers of cloth.

This

time I grabbed the 3/4 full can, that I had on the shelf, and couldn't get
from one side of the cloth to the other before it jelled. Of course once

you

start..you can't stop so the mess gets worse and worse as you go (doing

dumb

things like brushing straight resin into the mess for cloth absorption and
then making brush strokes over top with a brush soaked in the catalyst).

I'm

now 2 weeks and still waiting for some of it to harden (and praying that

the

MEK didn't make it through the tape and onto the windshield!). Will see

what

happens when I peel it, but think I'll be starting again!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: <rognal@dcsol.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2004 6:33 PM
Subject: Rebel Windshield Installation

When using the FUS-13 aluminum retainers for the side of the windshield,
as
shown in Wayne's series of photo's in the archives, how far should the
windshield overlap the FUS-9's?

The manual says the windshield overlap should be one inch, but that is
with
the fiberglass retainer up the sides. Putting the FUS-13's up against a
one
inch overlap places the retainer well aft on the FUS-9 and IMO looks
funky.
That's with the narrow flange of the FUS-13 on the 'glass' by 3/8ths of

an

inch.

Thanks for any help,

Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!

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