wet wings

[Ralph Baker]

The Pro Sealing is one of those things best looked back on and not
forward to. However, it is not as bad as you expect. Be sure the
surfaces are scrupulosly clean and Scotchbrited. Be sure gap filler
plates at the stringers and any other penetration fit as closely as
reasonably possible. Mix accurately. Mix only as much as can be used
before setup. Setup occurs much faster as temperature rises above 70
degrees F. Wear old clothes. Wear latex gloves. Use 1/2" stiff
brushes to spread material as well as small spoons. Have a helper who
knows how to help. Remember, no tank ever leaked from too much Pro
Seal. Think the sequence of work through before opening the Pro Seal
container. Get a can of acetone for Pro Sealed clecoes. Use still
wires to maintain rib and filler plate alignment as parts are brought
together. Use a coat of "brush grade" Pro Seal in the "tub" after
initial assembly. Be sure that Pro Seal does not form a dam between the
root rib and stringer preventing complete water sumping.

The brush grade Pro Seal is a lighter viscosity that can be brushed
rather than the "peanut butter" consistency. Some have advocated
thinning the thicker material with MEK but I chose to order rather than
chance changing the chemistry. Do not put more than 2-3 pounds of
pressure at a max for leak tests. 1 1/2 pounds will show leaks. I
found that a stethoscope with a tube would hiss at any leak and the 2
that we had were where they could be found this way. I do recommend
that prevention is the best course.

The penetrations, such as at the stringers, are closed with .020
aluminum made to suit and riveted in placed with Pro Seal. A search of
the archives will turn up more commentary than one would imagine as
well.
Ralph Baker


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[Rebflyer]

Just one more tid-bit on proseal, I found a couple of plastic syringes in
the 20cc size (cheap at the medical store) with the hub that the needle goes on
to cut off really gave you the ability to push the proseal into the tight
corners. I always had problems with the popcicle stick or what ever I was trying
to use to push it into the corners. The pro seal would cling to the stick and
it would pull away from the material when you pulled the stick away. I could
just really goop it into the corners with a syringe.
Keep a clsoe eye on the rivet holes for your dams and such. It's easy to
miss one when its covered in proseal.
I really like the line " No tank has ever leaked proseal"!!!
With all of that we had one minor leak on a top skin around a stringer.
That would not have happened if we had used the drill rod for alignment of the
top skin method, but it was accessible from the fuel filler neck area and the
outside of the rib so we are leak free now.
Last suggestion. When you're ready to start with the big assembly areas,
just grab a finger full of proseal, then smear it all over you and your cloths.
It gets that part out of the way right off the bat!! JK. Have fun, it's not
that bad. Curt N97MR
I'm getting the urge to build again!!! Please help me!!!! Is there a 12
step for this? Worse than that it'll be glass!



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