Balancing metal flapperons

[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

Wayne:

Bobp has told me that you have metal flapperons and have balanced them
with lead. Do you have pics, I have looked through the archives and did
not find any pics of yours. Brian at MAM suggested that I put the
weights in the leading edge of the flapperons to balance.

Thanks,

Peter



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Gee and I thought I was the only one on the planet that didn't want cows
eating my flaperons!! Now I have competition!!

I originally looked at putting a lead bar across the leading edge (inside)
of the flaperons. I can't remember what the weight calculated out to for
that short hinge arm distance, and not going to look for my calculations
from 10 years ago (I have them somewhere), but I'm pretty sure a Gill 25
battery weighs less and you need this x FOUR (unless you have split flaps
then x TWO).

I have approximately 8 lbs of lead hanging off both sides from the middle
hinge area and this is slightly more than 100% static balanced. As Bob says
just watch your head as you're going under, since I have woke up in the
Hanger some hours later a few times with the last thing I remember
doing..... running for the phone!!!##$(*

I can't even remember how exactly I came up with the right weight, but once
you have the arm you could use a fish scale to pull down on it until the
flaperons are in a level attitude. This will give you are really good ball
park to start with starting with weight just above this and whittling them
down till things balance on final install.

When I was flying behind the 100HP O-235 I thought many times about removing
the weights and going up and slapping the stick around...with my thoughts
being that they are mechanically balanced anyhow seeing each side is linked
together by push pulls and both sides weigh the same, but considering the
slop/flex etc of the MAM control system I figured why *&#k with
fate..especially now that I am flying behind 150HP with a cruise about 30MPH
faster than I had when I built this machine.

I've had a few AME's tell me that these weights would break off in no time,
just like beavers apparently do. But so far no cracks or extra wear on the
hinge bushings from the extra weight.

Will send you a PM with a picture shortly!

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: Balancing metal flapperons

Wayne:

Bobp has told me that you have metal flapperons and have balanced them
with lead. Do you have pics, I have looked through the archives and did
not find any pics of yours. Brian at MAM suggested that I put the
weights in the leading edge of the flapperons to balance.

Thanks,

Peter

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

One other thing........that I hate to admit!!......the fabric covered
flaperon is nicer on the controls to fly!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Gee and I thought I was the only one on the planet that didn't want cows
eating my flaperons!! Now I have competition!!

I originally looked at putting a lead bar across the leading edge (inside)
of the flaperons. I can't remember what the weight calculated out to for
that short hinge arm distance, and not going to look for my calculations
from 10 years ago (I have them somewhere), but I'm pretty sure a Gill 25
battery weighs less and you need this x FOUR (unless you have split flaps
then x TWO).

I have approximately 8 lbs of lead hanging off both sides from the middle
hinge area and this is slightly more than 100% static balanced. As Bob

says

just watch your head as you're going under, since I have woke up in the
Hanger some hours later a few times with the last thing I remember
doing..... running for the phone!!!##$(*

I can't even remember how exactly I came up with the right weight, but

once

you have the arm you could use a fish scale to pull down on it until the
flaperons are in a level attitude. This will give you are really good ball
park to start with starting with weight just above this and whittling them
down till things balance on final install.

When I was flying behind the 100HP O-235 I thought many times about

removing

the weights and going up and slapping the stick around...with my thoughts
being that they are mechanically balanced anyhow seeing each side is

linked

together by push pulls and both sides weigh the same, but considering the
slop/flex etc of the MAM control system I figured why *&#k with
fate..especially now that I am flying behind 150HP with a cruise about

30MPH

faster than I had when I built this machine.

I've had a few AME's tell me that these weights would break off in no

time,

just like beavers apparently do. But so far no cracks or extra wear on the
hinge bushings from the extra weight.

Will send you a PM with a picture shortly!

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: Balancing metal flapperons

Wayne:

Bobp has told me that you have metal flapperons and have balanced them
with lead. Do you have pics, I have looked through the archives and did
not find any pics of yours. Brian at MAM suggested that I put the
weights in the leading edge of the flapperons to balance.

Thanks,

Peter

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 01:17 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

One other thing........that I hate to admit!!......the fabric covered
flaperon is nicer on the controls to fly!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Gee and I thought I was the only one on the planet that didn't want
cows
eating my flaperons!! Now I have competition!!

I originally looked at putting a lead bar across the leading edge
(inside)
of the flaperons. I can't remember what the weight calculated out to
for
that short hinge arm distance, and not going to look for my
calculations
from 10 years ago (I have them somewhere), but I'm pretty sure a Gill
25
battery weighs less and you need this x FOUR (unless you have split
flaps
then x TWO).

I have approximately 8 lbs of lead hanging off both sides from the
middle
hinge area and this is slightly more than 100% static balanced. As Bob

says

just watch your head as you're going under, since I have woke up in
the
Hanger some hours later a few times with the last thing I remember
doing..... running for the phone!!!##$(*

I can't even remember how exactly I came up with the right weight, but

once

you have the arm you could use a fish scale to pull down on it until
the
flaperons are in a level attitude. This will give you are really good
ball
park to start with starting with weight just above this and whittling
them
down till things balance on final install.

When I was flying behind the 100HP O-235 I thought many times about

removing

the weights and going up and slapping the stick around...with my
thoughts
being that they are mechanically balanced anyhow seeing each side is

linked

together by push pulls and both sides weigh the same, but considering
the
slop/flex etc of the MAM control system I figured why *&#k with
fate..especially now that I am flying behind 150HP with a cruise about

30MPH

faster than I had when I built this machine.

I've had a few AME's tell me that these weights would break off in no

time,

just like beavers apparently do. But so far no cracks or extra wear
on the
hinge bushings from the extra weight.

Will send you a PM with a picture shortly!

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: Balancing metal flapperons

Wayne:

Bobp has told me that you have metal flapperons and have balanced
them
with lead. Do you have pics, I have looked through the archives and
did
not find any pics of yours. Brian at MAM suggested that I put the
weights in the leading edge of the flapperons to balance.

Thanks,

Peter

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Probably as smart a move as any. Make sure you follow the (Stit's) Polyfiber
system from start to finish, with no magic potion short cuts. Or Ceconite
start to finish (but I hear Polyfiber bought out the STC for Ceconite so
maybe not available anymore--don't know). Seen to many times where someone
that is supposed to be a "professional" has used some magic concoction on
fabric "that is better" (in their mind only) than using the poly
brush/polyspray base coats and the proper matching paint over top. Still
lots of AME's both sides of the borders that like to use half the poly
fibers system and then start shooting dope on it (that makes it continue to
shrink after it shouldn't be). I'm sure if Steve Wittman had another chance
he would have followed the system start to finish :o(!

At least there's one good thing about all this....you at least already have
your airplane apart for a good going through. We could have thrown these
things at you after you had it all back together again!

Once you have the alum off you are looking at approx 24 hours of work to
glue and cover with fabric, shrink (don't tell your wife what you are doing
with her iron!), poly brush and the two or three coats of poly spray if my
memory serves me right. If you've never done fabric before, see if someone
local has a copy of the polyfiber video to view before you start. If not try
to track one down or even buy it with your supplies and when done with it
donate it to a local RAA chapter or resell it on Ebay!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 01:17 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

One other thing........that I hate to admit!!......the fabric covered
flaperon is nicer on the controls to fly!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Gee and I thought I was the only one on the planet that didn't want
cows
eating my flaperons!! Now I have competition!!

I originally looked at putting a lead bar across the leading edge
(inside)
of the flaperons. I can't remember what the weight calculated out to
for
that short hinge arm distance, and not going to look for my
calculations
from 10 years ago (I have them somewhere), but I'm pretty sure a Gill
25
battery weighs less and you need this x FOUR (unless you have split
flaps
then x TWO).

I have approximately 8 lbs of lead hanging off both sides from the
middle
hinge area and this is slightly more than 100% static balanced. As Bob

says

just watch your head as you're going under, since I have woke up in
the
Hanger some hours later a few times with the last thing I remember
doing..... running for the phone!!!##$(*

I can't even remember how exactly I came up with the right weight, but

once

you have the arm you could use a fish scale to pull down on it until
the
flaperons are in a level attitude. This will give you are really good
ball
park to start with starting with weight just above this and whittling
them
down till things balance on final install.

When I was flying behind the 100HP O-235 I thought many times about

removing

the weights and going up and slapping the stick around...with my
thoughts
being that they are mechanically balanced anyhow seeing each side is

linked

together by push pulls and both sides weigh the same, but considering
the
slop/flex etc of the MAM control system I figured why *&#k with
fate..especially now that I am flying behind 150HP with a cruise about

30MPH

faster than I had when I built this machine.

I've had a few AME's tell me that these weights would break off in no

time,

just like beavers apparently do. But so far no cracks or extra wear
on the
hinge bushings from the extra weight.

Will send you a PM with a picture shortly!

Wayne



----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 1:10 PM
Subject: Balancing metal flapperons

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[David Stroud]

If you want to borrow a Polyfiber video..just say the word. I've still got
mine around here
somewhere.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Probably as smart a move as any. Make sure you follow the (Stit's)

Polyfiber

system from start to finish, with no magic potion short cuts. Or Ceconite
start to finish (but I hear Polyfiber bought out the STC for Ceconite so
maybe not available anymore--don't know). Seen to many times where someone
that is supposed to be a "professional" has used some magic concoction on
fabric "that is better" (in their mind only) than using the poly
brush/polyspray base coats and the proper matching paint over top. Still
lots of AME's both sides of the borders that like to use half the poly
fibers system and then start shooting dope on it (that makes it continue

to

shrink after it shouldn't be). I'm sure if Steve Wittman had another

chance

he would have followed the system start to finish :o(!

At least there's one good thing about all this....you at least already

have

your airplane apart for a good going through. We could have thrown these
things at you after you had it all back together again!

Once you have the alum off you are looking at approx 24 hours of work to
glue and cover with fabric, shrink (don't tell your wife what you are

doing

with her iron!), poly brush and the two or three coats of poly spray if my
memory serves me right. If you've never done fabric before, see if someone
local has a copy of the polyfiber video to view before you start. If not

try

to track one down or even buy it with your supplies and when done with it
donate it to a local RAA chapter or resell it on Ebay!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 01:17 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

One other thing........that I hate to admit!!......the fabric covered
flaperon is nicer on the controls to fly!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Bob

says

but

once removing linked

about

30MPH time,

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Too add...when you get your alum off, make sure there are corner gussets on
each end rib (top and bottom) between the rib and the main spar where the
"D" skin overlaps (if you have the manuals take a look at the parts diagram
and you'll see what I mean). These make sure everything stays square and may
not be there since the alum cover was doing this job nicely. Also before
covering make sure you roll the edges down on the "D" skin and all ribs for
a nice fabric finish and less chance of the edges chafing though the fabric.
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Probably as smart a move as any. Make sure you follow the (Stit's)

Polyfiber

system from start to finish, with no magic potion short cuts. Or Ceconite
start to finish (but I hear Polyfiber bought out the STC for Ceconite so
maybe not available anymore--don't know). Seen to many times where someone
that is supposed to be a "professional" has used some magic concoction on
fabric "that is better" (in their mind only) than using the poly
brush/polyspray base coats and the proper matching paint over top. Still
lots of AME's both sides of the borders that like to use half the poly
fibers system and then start shooting dope on it (that makes it continue

to

shrink after it shouldn't be). I'm sure if Steve Wittman had another

chance

he would have followed the system start to finish :o(!

At least there's one good thing about all this....you at least already

have

your airplane apart for a good going through. We could have thrown these
things at you after you had it all back together again!

Once you have the alum off you are looking at approx 24 hours of work to
glue and cover with fabric, shrink (don't tell your wife what you are

doing

with her iron!), poly brush and the two or three coats of poly spray if my
memory serves me right. If you've never done fabric before, see if someone
local has a copy of the polyfiber video to view before you start. If not

try

to track one down or even buy it with your supplies and when done with it
donate it to a local RAA chapter or resell it on Ebay!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 01:17 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

One other thing........that I hate to admit!!......the fabric covered
flaperon is nicer on the controls to fly!

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[klehman]

FWIW, as a first timer I used darn near a whole gallon of polybrush and
3 qts of polyspray which probably means that it is cheaper to buy a
gallon of that too.
Ken

Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao wrote:

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

I'll pull the manual out and study the flapperons.

Dave I sure would appreciate borrowing your video. I have never touched
fabric before.
Peter Piascik
151 Bromley Crt
Yellowknife, NT
X1A 2Y1
Let me know how much to ship and I'll send you the money

The only thing I'm worried about is matching the Rebels original colour
when painting the flapperons. Maybe I'll just paint them white.

Thanks guys,

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 09:30 AM, David Stroud wrote:

If you want to borrow a Polyfiber video..just say the word. I've still
got
mine around here
somewhere.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Probably as smart a move as any. Make sure you follow the (Stit's)

Polyfiber

system from start to finish, with no magic potion short cuts. Or
Ceconite
start to finish (but I hear Polyfiber bought out the STC for Ceconite
so
maybe not available anymore--don't know). Seen to many times where
someone
that is supposed to be a "professional" has used some magic
concoction on
fabric "that is better" (in their mind only) than using the poly
brush/polyspray base coats and the proper matching paint over top.
Still
lots of AME's both sides of the borders that like to use half the poly
fibers system and then start shooting dope on it (that makes it
continue

to

shrink after it shouldn't be). I'm sure if Steve Wittman had another

chance

he would have followed the system start to finish :o(!

At least there's one good thing about all this....you at least already

have

your airplane apart for a good going through. We could have thrown
these
things at you after you had it all back together again!

Once you have the alum off you are looking at approx 24 hours of work
to
glue and cover with fabric, shrink (don't tell your wife what you are

doing

with her iron!), poly brush and the two or three coats of poly spray
if my
memory serves me right. If you've never done fabric before, see if
someone
local has a copy of the polyfiber video to view before you start. If
not

try

to track one down or even buy it with your supplies and when done
with it
donate it to a local RAA chapter or resell it on Ebay!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Thanks Wayne you are a real wealth of info. I'm sure everyone here
appreciates your help.

Bob suggested that I just remove the metal and cover with stits
fabric.
I think I would prefer to go lighter than heavier specially with your
comment on how much nicer it flies with the fabric flapperons.

Thanks again,

Peter

On Wednesday, January 21, 2004, at 01:17 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Bob

but

about

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao]

Thanks Wayne.

Do you think that this is the best way to go? I still have in the back
of my head to just balance the flapperons. The A/C flies very nice as
is. I wouldn't have to worry about matching paint. Do you think a
person with no experience with fabric can do a good job?

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 08:14 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Yellows a bitch to get to match for sure! Any local body shop with a
colour
meter near you that could help out with tinting? Take the removed alum
with
you, have them check colour and they should be able to help out with a
match
from there.
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

I'll pull the manual out and study the flapperons.

Dave I sure would appreciate borrowing your video. I have never
touched
fabric before.
Peter Piascik
151 Bromley Crt
Yellowknife, NT
X1A 2Y1
Let me know how much to ship and I'll send you the money

The only thing I'm worried about is matching the Rebels original
colour
when painting the flapperons. Maybe I'll just paint them white.

Thanks guys,

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 09:30 AM, David Stroud wrote:

If you want to borrow a Polyfiber video..just say the word. I've
still
got
mine around here
somewhere.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Polyfiber to chance have doing try Bob but about *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
-- *--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---* *--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---*
*--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---* *--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---*



*--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*--------------------------------------------------------------------
--
---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*







-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Yellows a bitch to get to match for sure! Any local body shop with a colour
meter near you that could help out with tinting? Take the removed alum with
you, have them check colour and they should be able to help out with a match
from there.
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

I'll pull the manual out and study the flapperons.

Dave I sure would appreciate borrowing your video. I have never touched
fabric before.
Peter Piascik
151 Bromley Crt
Yellowknife, NT
X1A 2Y1
Let me know how much to ship and I'll send you the money

The only thing I'm worried about is matching the Rebels original colour
when painting the flapperons. Maybe I'll just paint them white.

Thanks guys,

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 09:30 AM, David Stroud wrote:

If you want to borrow a Polyfiber video..just say the word. I've still
got
mine around here
somewhere.

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia C-FDWS
Fairchild 51 early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Probably as smart a move as any. Make sure you follow the (Stit's)

Polyfiber

system from start to finish, with no magic potion short cuts. Or
Ceconite
start to finish (but I hear Polyfiber bought out the STC for Ceconite
so
maybe not available anymore--don't know). Seen to many times where
someone
that is supposed to be a "professional" has used some magic
concoction on
fabric "that is better" (in their mind only) than using the poly
brush/polyspray base coats and the proper matching paint over top.
Still
lots of AME's both sides of the borders that like to use half the poly
fibers system and then start shooting dope on it (that makes it
continue

to

shrink after it shouldn't be). I'm sure if Steve Wittman had another

chance

he would have followed the system start to finish :o(!

At least there's one good thing about all this....you at least already

have

your airplane apart for a good going through. We could have thrown
these
things at you after you had it all back together again!

Once you have the alum off you are looking at approx 24 hours of work
to
glue and cover with fabric, shrink (don't tell your wife what you are

doing

with her iron!), poly brush and the two or three coats of poly spray
if my
memory serves me right. If you've never done fabric before, see if
someone
local has a copy of the polyfiber video to view before you start. If
not

try

to track one down or even buy it with your supplies and when done
with it
donate it to a local RAA chapter or resell it on Ebay!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Bob

but

about

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

That's why I sent you the last email! Looking at the picture.... the weight
is about the right angle to clear the wing with full flaps. Just not sure
about during full flap & aileron deflection!

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

Thanks Wayne.

Do you think that this is the best way to go? I still have in the back
of my head to just balance the flapperons. The A/C flies very nice as
is. I wouldn't have to worry about matching paint. Do you think a
person with no experience with fabric can do a good job?

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 08:14 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:

Yellows a bitch to get to match for sure! Any local body shop with a
colour
meter near you that could help out with tinting? Take the removed alum
with
you, have them check colour and they should be able to help out with a
match
from there.
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter, Juliet, & Wanaao" <northofsixty@mac.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: Balancing metal flapperons

I'll pull the manual out and study the flapperons.

Dave I sure would appreciate borrowing your video. I have never
touched
fabric before.
Peter Piascik
151 Bromley Crt
Yellowknife, NT
X1A 2Y1
Let me know how much to ship and I'll send you the money

The only thing I'm worried about is matching the Rebels original
colour
when painting the flapperons. Maybe I'll just paint them white.

Thanks guys,

Peter

On Thursday, January 22, 2004, at 09:30 AM, David Stroud wrote:

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*



*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*----------------------------------------------------------------------
---*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*



*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe from this list go to:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.wcx
Archives located at https://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*








-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------