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Moose Tail Mods

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Bruce Uvanni

Moose Tail Mods

Post by Bruce Uvanni » Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:52 am

OK guy's I'm even more confused now.
I'm looking at the first three photos on
maddog site for the moose / Tail feathers
There titled:
|--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
------------+------+--------+------------|
| |Description
|Info |Size |Date |
|--------------------------------+-------------------------------------
------------+------+--------+------------|
|2003_0520_124154AA.JPG |

mike.davis

Moose Tail Mods

Post by mike.davis » Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:52 am

On 1/12/2004 11:46 PM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:
OK guy's I'm even more confused now.
I'm looking at the first three photos on
maddog site for the moose / Tail feathers
I see and understand the first two but as I look at the third one
(H-stab Moose, center hinge showing doublers ) I'm lost. Why is that hi
nge
going into the rear spar of the H-stap???????????

Dose anyone have a few photos of how the rear stab should look



Bruce Uvanni wrote:
Maybe it's just the angle that's confusing you... this picture was taken to
show how all the layers in the middle of the rear spar stacked up. There was
some question some time ago about how the ST-403 doublers where installed
inside the rear spar. This photo is of the center (of 5) hinge mounted on the
rear spar and pretty well shows the 5 layers of aluminum that all get rivetted
to that flange on either side.

This leads indirectly to the first two photos and why I chose to place my
doubler on the inside instead of the outside like MAM did on the
demonstrator. Since the doubler on the demonstrator wrapped around the corner
and between the hinge and the spar, it threw the alignment of the other 3
hinges out, and they then needed spacers the same thickness as the doubler
installed between them and the spar to realign everything. By placing the
doubler on the inside while building, I was able to mount all the hinges
normally.

Mike
195SR


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Bruce Uvanni

Moose Tail Mods

Post by Bruce Uvanni » Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:52 am

Hi Mike: I see, I see, I see. Yes it's an optical illusion.
I can see the hinge going into the photo and coming
out (as it really is).
Thanks for your help. I have a few questions for you.
MAM did not include any parts for the corner doublers,
They look quite easy to make, What thickness are
the corner doublers?
And when are you going to start building again? I learned
so much from your builder log on the stab, I was hopeful
to follow you thourgh the whole build process...................




BRUCE UVANNI
BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
PHONE: (802) 769-7364 Tie line (446)




mike.davis@dcsol.
com To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Sent by: cc:
<mike.davis@dcsol Subject: Re: Moose Tail Mods
.com>


01/13/2004 03:54
AM
Please respond to
murphy-rebel






On 1/12/2004 11:46 PM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:
OK guy's I'm even more confused now.
I'm looking at the first three photos on
maddog site for the moose / Tail feathers
I see and understand the first two but as I look at the third one
(H-stab Moose, center hinge showing doublers ) I'm lost. Why is that hi
nge
going into the rear spar of the H-stap???????????

Dose anyone have a few photos of how the rear stab should look



Bruce Uvanni wrote:
Maybe it's just the angle that's confusing you... this picture was taken to

show how all the layers in the middle of the rear spar stacked up. There
was
some question some time ago about how the ST-403 doublers where installed
inside the rear spar. This photo is of the center (of 5) hinge mounted on
the
rear spar and pretty well shows the 5 layers of aluminum that all get
rivetted
to that flange on either side.

This leads indirectly to the first two photos and why I chose to place my
doubler on the inside instead of the outside like MAM did on the
demonstrator. Since the doubler on the demonstrator wrapped around the
corner
and between the hinge and the spar, it threw the alignment of the other 3
hinges out, and they then needed spacers the same thickness as the doubler
installed between them and the spar to realign everything. By placing the
doubler on the inside while building, I was able to mount all the hinges
normally.

Mike
195SR


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mike.davis

Moose Tail Mods

Post by mike.davis » Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:52 am

Hi Bruce,

MAM says that the corner wraps on the stab are not really necessary, just
something they needed because of the prop they were using. I don't even
intend to use the M14, but thought it was prudent to add the doublers at this
stage. I believe MAM used 32 thou material, but I used 20 thou... that's just
what I had.

As for building again... boy you know how to hurt a guy don't you! ;-) Life
in it's cruel ways sometimes throws you one curve right after another...
dealing with mine kept me from getting my shop heated this year, so until it
warms up... probably middle to late April, I won't be doing any more work on
my kit. I have been working on the shop from time to time, so hopefully next
winter won't be another enforced work stoppage. I've put in almost as much
overtime at work since October as I did all of 2002... but until I start
working normal hours again, I won't be able to spend any of that extra income
on getting the shop finished. My wife offered to hire a contractor for my
birthday to finish up the insulation, but for some perverse reason... just
like building my own airplane, I take great satisfaction from looking at my
shop and saying, "I built it all myself".

Mike

On 1/13/2004 9:35 PM, MURPHY-REBEL@DCSOL.COM wrote to MIKE DAVIS:
Hi Mike: I see, I see, I see. Yes it's an optical illusion.
I can see the hinge going into the photo and coming
out (as it really is).
Thanks for your help. I have a few questions for you.
MAM did not include any parts for the corner doublers,
They look quite easy to make, What thickness are
the corner doublers?
And when are you going to start building again? I learned
so much from your builder log on the stab, I was hopeful
to follow you thourgh the whole build process...................




BRUCE UVANNI
BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
PHONE: (802) 769-7364 Tie line (446)

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