tool kit from mam

[Legeorgen]

That's funny. When I finished my kit I found out I needed MORE tools. A whole
new set of them just to maintain it! Well, try and explain that one to your
wife.

Then tell her you need ANOTHER plane because they serve different purposes.
When I mentioned I needed amphibs, she was so tired of me spending so much time
in the hanger/shop she told me to buy them pre assembled. I didn't argue with
her, after all, it was her idea. I followed her orders.

Bruce 357R



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[Paul Chamberlin]

The one we have is from Princess Auto.....here in canada...less than
$100...seems to work great...had it for ...hmmmm about 3000 rivets up to
now...still working fine....just gotta oil it up now and again...I wouldnt
trust it tho for too many 3/16 rivets...... it comes with the proper head
etc...but it seems to work a bit when pulling the big ones....but on the
other hand ..it even pulled some 3/16...( or number 6 cherry max
rivets..which is a REAL-PULL) without too much problem....I dont know how
many of those it would pull on a day to day basis tho...buit it worked great
and still is kicking...


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Stroud
Sent: September 15, 2003 7:40 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam


Paul..could you please say what brand or type of pneumatic rivet puller you
recommend? Thanks

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

Well I dont know what is included in any of the tool kits they have to
offer...
I have been doing aircraft structural work since 1977 andc i am currently
building a rebel for a client. But I can tell you this much:

A Good quality drill is essential....readily available on ebay. Dont count
on a canadian tire campbell huasfeild model lasting too long....and they

are

noisy and use way too much air and dont run as nice as one would like

A 90 degree angle drill is good to have too...almost indespensible really
I also have a 45 degree angle drill which is handy too

Any files you can get a hold of..I mean hand files, rasps etc....I bet

they

are about the most used tools I have for building the rebel or any

aircraft.

I pnuematic rivet puller ..for sure...they are under $100 and when you
figure the thousands of rivets you're gonna be doing....dont try a hand
puller unless you want arthritis real fast.

get good drill bits.....number 40, 30, 20, 10...I sorta prefer using the 6
inch type.....I find I can control them easier and they dont break as much
as short ones....

any other questions just ask!

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam


Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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[Paul Chamberlin]

hey...I gotta lot of feedback over my comments to you.....one guy says the
hole spacer works great....but then he goes on to say in curves it sorta is
weird...it all boils down to whatever works for you and whatever you feel
comfortable with. All I know is what works for me...and that's a good
strait edge/ruler but if the hole spacer works..then go for it. I have been
working on structural aircaft for boeing, dehavilland, mitsubishi, short
brothers, canadair, Hughes...and never seen one used yet...but hey...like I
said before..whatever you find works best!

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam


Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R



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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Dave, buy the cheapest "piece of shit" you can at a bargain tool supplier,
at a local flee market. I've had the blue one from China, that MAM used to
ship with their tool kits, for 10+ years and it has pulled over 200,000
rivets! I have taken it apart ONCE and have never had to replace the pulling
tips! I've always been concerned that it was going to crap out in the middle
of a wet proseal pull on a fuel tank and have had a princess auto gun
sitting on the shelf waiting, but have yet to open the box!

Others have bought expensive name brands and over the last 5 or 6 years on
here I have heard many of them complain of failure of the unit, persistant
pulling problems or the tips wearing out.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

Paul..could you please say what brand or type of pneumatic rivet puller

you recommend? Thanks

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

Well I dont know what is included in any of the tool kits they have to
offer...
I have been doing aircraft structural work since 1977 andc i am

currently

building a rebel for a client. But I can tell you this much:

A Good quality drill is essential....readily available on ebay. Dont

count

on a canadian tire campbell huasfeild model lasting too long....and they

are

noisy and use way too much air and dont run as nice as one would like

A 90 degree angle drill is good to have too...almost indespensible

really

I also have a 45 degree angle drill which is handy too

Any files you can get a hold of..I mean hand files, rasps etc....I bet

they

are about the most used tools I have for building the rebel or any

aircraft.

I pnuematic rivet puller ..for sure...they are under $100 and when you
figure the thousands of rivets you're gonna be doing....dont try a hand
puller unless you want arthritis real fast.

get good drill bits.....number 40, 30, 20, 10...I sorta prefer using the

6

inch type.....I find I can control them easier and they dont break as

much

as short ones....

any other questions just ask!

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam


Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I

have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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[Paul Chamberlin]

I may not be gods gift to sheet metal..but I do know some tricks...been at
it for longer than I care to remember...(oh yeah..1977 I think)...give me a
call with any questions and I would also love to keep on learning. I can be
reached at home
Toll Free 1-877-675-6575

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam


Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have
to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R



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[Paul Chamberlin]

Diito on wayne's post about the puller.......( but our's is silver....must
be better huh?,...nanner nannner nanner!)

end of story....our's is the same as he has probably....differant
paint...but it works fine..and it will cost you probably more to replace the
tips in a "brand name puller" as it would to buy a whole new puller like
what I talked about.

Paul


-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: September 16, 2003 9:28 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam


Dave, buy the cheapest "piece of shit" you can at a bargain tool supplier,
at a local flee market. I've had the blue one from China, that MAM used to
ship with their tool kits, for 10+ years and it has pulled over 200,000
rivets! I have taken it apart ONCE and have never had to replace the pulling
tips! I've always been concerned that it was going to crap out in the middle
of a wet proseal pull on a fuel tank and have had a princess auto gun
sitting on the shelf waiting, but have yet to open the box!

Others have bought expensive name brands and over the last 5 or 6 years on
here I have heard many of them complain of failure of the unit, persistant
pulling problems or the tips wearing out.

Cheers,
Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud@rogers.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

Paul..could you please say what brand or type of pneumatic rivet puller

you recommend? Thanks

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:51 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

Well I dont know what is included in any of the tool kits they have to
offer...
I have been doing aircraft structural work since 1977 andc i am

currently

building a rebel for a client. But I can tell you this much:

A Good quality drill is essential....readily available on ebay. Dont

count

on a canadian tire campbell huasfeild model lasting too long....and they

are

noisy and use way too much air and dont run as nice as one would like

A 90 degree angle drill is good to have too...almost indespensible

really

I also have a 45 degree angle drill which is handy too

Any files you can get a hold of..I mean hand files, rasps etc....I bet

they

are about the most used tools I have for building the rebel or any

aircraft.

I pnuematic rivet puller ..for sure...they are under $100 and when you
figure the thousands of rivets you're gonna be doing....dont try a hand
puller unless you want arthritis real fast.

get good drill bits.....number 40, 30, 20, 10...I sorta prefer using the

6

inch type.....I find I can control them easier and they dont break as

much

as short ones....

any other questions just ask!

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Jean Poirier
Sent: September 15, 2003 3:50 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: tool kit from mam


Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I

have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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[Angus McKenzie - McKenzie]

One item I use all the time on sheet alum.work but have not seen mentioned
yet is a Roper-Whitney hand punch.They have a jaw reach of about 2"so are
limited to creating holes within that dimension from an edge.Comes with a
variety of die sizes and
though requiring an indent from a center-punch makes an accurate
sized,exactly located hole.Also I use a magnifying locator punch,it is a
brass base with an o-ring on the bottom(to prevent slippage) which you set
over your marks at your intended hole location and align the cross-hairs on
the removable magnifying rod with your layout marks.Then you remove the
magnifying rod
and insert the machined punch into the brass base and whack,you have an
exactly located indent.For myself these two tools are my most often used
hole
makers on initial layouts.The magnifying punch was from Lee Valley,around
$40cdn,and most industrial suppliers should have the hand punch for around
$50.Also,there is no substitute for good quality left and right snips of two
different angles.Stay away from any cheap,off-shore, knock-offs some of the
apprentices at our shop have bought some and there is a big difference in
the quality of the finished edge when compared to a set of good
snips.i.e.Snap-On,etc.As usual just MHO...........Angus



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[Mike Kimball]

You absolutely, positively must have a Dremel (or similar) with cut off
wheels and drum sanders (tons of them). You'll have to cut out holes in the
fuselage for windows, trim stuff already in place like the fuselage skin at
the front door posts that overlaps the door, instrument panel cutouts, etc.
It's priceless.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rbesecker@dcsol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam


If it's anything like the SR deluxe tool kit, I'd get it (or duplicate it).
May need to get more clecos--I haven't needed more yet, but I'm only
skinning the wings now (and from what I've heard, I'll need more)--plan to
borrow extras when needed from EAA chapter members. The fluting pliers are
quick, just be carefull not to flute too close to a rivet hole--the
stretcher-shrinker is a pretty neat tool (to a sheet metal neophyte) but, so
far, not absolutely necessary. The air rivet gun works great--same one (or
an exact copy) is available on sale at Harbor Freight for around $40 (I
think)--if you're there pick up a couple of boxes of nitrile gloves, chip
brushes and those small brushes for the primering.



I went the cordless Makita route (Costco pack with an extra battery and
charger)--by the time I wear out a battery the other one's ready, and I
don't keep the neighbors awake listening to the air compressor kick on and
off all night. Anyway, after two or three battery recharges, I'm spent
anyway. I'm still on my first drill bits (you will be drilling aluminum with
high speed steel drill bits, and they don't get hot).



If you go the duplicate-the-kit route:

There are always clecos for sale on ebay (or beg/borrow/steal from a
fellow builder).

Get the hole spacer.

You will need the long drill bits--plus spring-type drill stops for each
size.

Deburring tool--the cheapee works fine, but I really like the Avery
Tools unit that I borrowed (for the next five years).

Haven't used the safety pliers yet.



In addition, stuff not included in the MAM tool kit:

Harbor Freight (or similar, read, cheap) die grinder with a small
cut-off/grinding wheel and a set of the scotch-brite type sanding pads (if
they're on sale ~$15, get two--you'll get tired or changing utensils).

Not sure about the Rebel, but a set of reamers (not cheap, but cuts a
nice hole) came in handy for the SR.

My Harbor Freight drill press works great for drilling/reaming/sanding.

Get a decent air compressor--my neighbor's large tank, 1HP was not
enough to pull 3/16" rivets. My Campbell-Hausfeld has no problems.

Notcher tool--I bought a hand notcher and it works as advertised--but
then I bought the Harbor Freight air-notcher. Still use the hand notcher for
close work.



Just coming off of a weekend of drilling some of the wing stringers (6
stringers X 140-ish holes per X 2 passes per), and the Makita is still
working. Now I get to start (and finish) the leading edge stringers, then
deburr.



Congratulations on your purchase.



Rick Besecker

2154 E Trenton Ave

Fresno CA 93720

(559) 297-8361

rbesecker@comcast.net

Murphy SR2500 178SR-1





"Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net> wrote in message
news:001101c37bc2$a8bf0a30$0500000a@JEAN...

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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[Terry Dazey]

After ordering my Rebel kit in July 99, I interviewed some local builders to
get some ideas on what tools and equipment were required. After all notes were
taken, I decided to make a simple "equipment needed" spread sheet in Excel to
sort out the best prices available from the best supplier.

Most of these tools were new to my shop, as my previous aircraft building
project required different type of assortment. Here is a list of major tools I
came up with for MY project:

Air Compressor
Pneumatic Blind Riveter (Harbor Freight)
Tape Measurer (12 foot / inches and decimals)
Steel 6 inch Scale (ruler)
X-Acto Hand Saw (fine and medium blades)
X-Acto Knife
Hand Pull Riveters
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (left hand)
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (right hand)
Dremel Tool Kit (various cutters, drum sanders, disks and grinder bits)
Cleco Pliers
Clecos: 400@ 3/32 inch
Clecos: 400@ 1/8 inch
Clecos: 50@ 3/16 inch
Clecos Side Clamp: 6 @ 1/2 inch
Clecos Side Clamp: 6@ 1 inch
90 degree Drill (Tight Fit kit)
SmartTool Sensor Module
Digital Level 24" (SmartTool)
Digital Level 48" (SmartTool)
Rivet Spacing tool
Circle Templates
Good Center Punch (spring loaded)
Edge Marker Block
100 degree countersink cutter (used with Microstop)
Microstop
3/16 inch Reamer
1/4 inch Reamer
Unibit Drill Bit 1/8 ? 1/2 inch
Unibit Drill Bit 1/4 ? 3/4 inch
Drill Stop #40
Drill Stop #30
Drill Stop #11
Pull Rivet Head Dimplers: 3/32
Pull Rivet Head Dimplers: 1/8
Fluting Pliers (plier type)
Fluting Pliers (vice grip type)
Hand Nibbler Tool (Adel)
Metal Stretcher/Shrinker
Edge Rolling Tool (for pre-bending skin edge)
"C" Clamps X inch (small)
"C" Clamps X inch (medium)
"Quick Grip" Clamps
Spring Clamps (various sizes)
Chip Chaser
Circle Fly Cutter
Drill Press
Precision Calipers
Band Saw
Hack Saw
Bench Grinder
Electric Rechargeable Screwdriver (Black & Decker)
Deburr Bit (for above screwdriver)
2-Way Deburring Tool 1/8 inch
2-Way Deburring Tool 3/16 inch
Misc. Drill bits #40, #30, #11inch, (I use Cobolt Jobbers bought by the pack)
Misc. Files (make sure they are GOOD files)
Needle File Set (Ignition files)
10 inch Vixen (push at 40 degree angle to edge of material)
8 inch Mill Bastard
Card File Brush
Electronic Scale
Hand Swaging Tool
Safety Wire Pilers
Scotch-Brite Pads
Rubber Exam Gloves
Basic hand tools, torque wrench etc.
Kitplane Construction Book ? Ron Wanttaja
Firewall Forward Books ? Tony Bingelis
Most Important . . . Duct Tape! =:-)

I know that there is a lot of stuff here, but most will be used for "double
duty" around the house and for other misc. projects. Justification for me . .
.Yes! My philisophy is that if one is going to spend literally "thousands of
dollars" on a kit, the percent spent on good (and proper) tools is relatively
small. That's just me.

When I was building my Long-EZ, I did commerce almost exclusively with Aircraft
Spruce. Nowadays with the business competition environment and tight money, it
pays (literally) to shop around.

Here are some suppliers I conjured up (I know there are more, but I didn

[Paul Chamberlin]

Best thing is a die grinder..or if you dont have access to air....get one of
those $99 canadian tire routers...the kid they use for drywall etc..it will
work in a pinch and still takes 1/4 inch tools

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Mike Kimball
Sent: September 18, 2003 9:13 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam


You absolutely, positively must have a Dremel (or similar) with cut off
wheels and drum sanders (tons of them). You'll have to cut out holes in the
fuselage for windows, trim stuff already in place like the fuselage skin at
the front door posts that overlaps the door, instrument panel cutouts, etc.
It's priceless.

Mike Kimball
SR #044

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
rbesecker@dcsol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam


If it's anything like the SR deluxe tool kit, I'd get it (or duplicate it).
May need to get more clecos--I haven't needed more yet, but I'm only
skinning the wings now (and from what I've heard, I'll need more)--plan to
borrow extras when needed from EAA chapter members. The fluting pliers are
quick, just be carefull not to flute too close to a rivet hole--the
stretcher-shrinker is a pretty neat tool (to a sheet metal neophyte) but, so
far, not absolutely necessary. The air rivet gun works great--same one (or
an exact copy) is available on sale at Harbor Freight for around $40 (I
think)--if you're there pick up a couple of boxes of nitrile gloves, chip
brushes and those small brushes for the primering.



I went the cordless Makita route (Costco pack with an extra battery and
charger)--by the time I wear out a battery the other one's ready, and I
don't keep the neighbors awake listening to the air compressor kick on and
off all night. Anyway, after two or three battery recharges, I'm spent
anyway. I'm still on my first drill bits (you will be drilling aluminum with
high speed steel drill bits, and they don't get hot).



If you go the duplicate-the-kit route:

There are always clecos for sale on ebay (or beg/borrow/steal from a
fellow builder).

Get the hole spacer.

You will need the long drill bits--plus spring-type drill stops for each
size.

Deburring tool--the cheapee works fine, but I really like the Avery
Tools unit that I borrowed (for the next five years).

Haven't used the safety pliers yet.



In addition, stuff not included in the MAM tool kit:

Harbor Freight (or similar, read, cheap) die grinder with a small
cut-off/grinding wheel and a set of the scotch-brite type sanding pads (if
they're on sale ~$15, get two--you'll get tired or changing utensils).

Not sure about the Rebel, but a set of reamers (not cheap, but cuts a
nice hole) came in handy for the SR.

My Harbor Freight drill press works great for drilling/reaming/sanding.

Get a decent air compressor--my neighbor's large tank, 1HP was not
enough to pull 3/16" rivets. My Campbell-Hausfeld has no problems.

Notcher tool--I bought a hand notcher and it works as advertised--but
then I bought the Harbor Freight air-notcher. Still use the hand notcher for
close work.



Just coming off of a weekend of drilling some of the wing stringers (6
stringers X 140-ish holes per X 2 passes per), and the Makita is still
working. Now I get to start (and finish) the leading edge stringers, then
deburr.



Congratulations on your purchase.



Rick Besecker

2154 E Trenton Ave

Fresno CA 93720

(559) 297-8361

rbesecker@comcast.net

Murphy SR2500 178SR-1





"Jean Poirier" <oxyport@globetrotter.net> wrote in message
news:001101c37bc2$a8bf0a30$0500000a@JEAN...

Hello!

My Rebel kit (s/n 747R) is ready for shippement. The last decision I have

to take before they ship, is to buy the basic or the deluxe tool kit.
Please let me know....

Jean Poirier
747R

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[Alan Hepburn]

Further to the extensive lists already provided, you're gooing to find,
sooner rather than later, that you have to remove some rivets. Even if
you're perfect, Murphy's instructions are far from that, and tell you to
rivet some areas prematurely. So, get yourself a Noxon spring centre punch
(US Tool Catalogue page 127, part # TP294S), and grind the "heavy blow" end
down to the diameter of the mandrel on a 1/8" Avex rivet. To remove the
rivet, place the puch in the mandrel hole and give it one or two whacks,
then drill off the rivet head. Prior to this, I was using a regular punch
and a weight to stop the part from getting damaged, but this works like a
charm!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Dazey" <dazey@earthlink.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

After ordering my Rebel kit in July 99, I interviewed some local builders

to

get some ideas on what tools and equipment were required. After all notes

were

taken, I decided to make a simple "equipment needed" spread sheet in Excel

to

sort out the best prices available from the best supplier.

Most of these tools were new to my shop, as my previous aircraft building
project required different type of assortment. Here is a list of major

tools I

came up with for MY project:

Air Compressor
Pneumatic Blind Riveter (Harbor Freight)
Tape Measurer (12 foot / inches and decimals)
Steel 6 inch Scale (ruler)
X-Acto Hand Saw (fine and medium blades)
X-Acto Knife
Hand Pull Riveters
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (left hand)
Pro-Snip or Weiss Cutters (right hand)
Dremel Tool Kit (various cutters, drum sanders, disks and grinder bits)
Cleco Pliers
Clecos: 400@ 3/32 inch
Clecos: 400@ 1/8 inch
Clecos: 50@ 3/16 inch
Clecos Side Clamp: 6 @ 1/2 inch
Clecos Side Clamp: 6@ 1 inch
90 degree Drill (Tight Fit kit)
SmartTool Sensor Module
Digital Level 24" (SmartTool)
Digital Level 48" (SmartTool)
Rivet Spacing tool
Circle Templates
Good Center Punch (spring loaded)
Edge Marker Block
100 degree countersink cutter (used with Microstop)
Microstop
3/16 inch Reamer
1/4 inch Reamer
Unibit Drill Bit 1/8 ? 1/2 inch
Unibit Drill Bit 1/4 ? 3/4 inch
Drill Stop #40
Drill Stop #30
Drill Stop #11
Pull Rivet Head Dimplers: 3/32
Pull Rivet Head Dimplers: 1/8
Fluting Pliers (plier type)
Fluting Pliers (vice grip type)
Hand Nibbler Tool (Adel)
Metal Stretcher/Shrinker
Edge Rolling Tool (for pre-bending skin edge)
"C" Clamps X inch (small)
"C" Clamps X inch (medium)
"Quick Grip" Clamps
Spring Clamps (various sizes)
Chip Chaser
Circle Fly Cutter
Drill Press
Precision Calipers
Band Saw
Hack Saw
Bench Grinder
Electric Rechargeable Screwdriver (Black & Decker)
Deburr Bit (for above screwdriver)
2-Way Deburring Tool 1/8 inch
2-Way Deburring Tool 3/16 inch
Misc. Drill bits #40, #30, #11inch, (I use Cobolt Jobbers bought by the

pack)

Misc. Files (make sure they are GOOD files)
Needle File Set (Ignition files)
10 inch Vixen (push at 40 degree angle to edge of material)
8 inch Mill Bastard
Card File Brush
Electronic Scale
Hand Swaging Tool
Safety Wire Pilers
Scotch-Brite Pads
Rubber Exam Gloves
Basic hand tools, torque wrench etc.
Kitplane Construction Book ? Ron Wanttaja
Firewall Forward Books ? Tony Bingelis
Most Important . . . Duct Tape! =:-)

I know that there is a lot of stuff here, but most will be used for

"double

duty" around the house and for other misc. projects. Justification for me

. .

.Yes! My philisophy is that if one is going to spend literally "thousands

of

dollars" on a kit, the percent spent on good (and proper) tools is

relatively

small. That's just me.

When I was building my Long-EZ, I did commerce almost exclusively with

Aircraft

Spruce. Nowadays with the business competition environment and tight

money, it

pays (literally) to shop around.

Here are some suppliers I conjured up (I know there are more, but I didn't

want

to make it my life's work). Remember to get current prices and shipping
charges. And search the web. (Note: The below also have email addresses):

Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.: 1-800-824-1930

http://www.aircraft?spruce.com

Aircraft Tool Supply Co.: 1-800-248-0638 http://www.aircraft-tool.com
Avery Tool Co. 1-800-652-8379 http://www.averytools.com
Brown Aviation Tool Supply: 1-800-587-3883 http://www.browntool.com
Chief Aircraft: 1-800-447-3408 http://www.chiefaircraft.com
Cleveland Aircraft Tool: 1-800-368-1822 http://www.clevelandtool.com
Edmunds Scientific: http:/www.scientificonline.com, 800-728-6999
Grizzly Industrial: 1-800-523-4777 http://www.grizzlyindustrial.com
Harbor Freight Co. : 1-800-423-2567 http://www.harborfreight.com
McMaster-Carr: Teflon rods, tools unique products,

http://www.mcmaster.com

Metric parts: http://rswww.com It's a European version of McMaster Carr
Murphy Aircraft Co. : 604-792-5855 http://www.murphyair.com
Small Parts: small quantities of metals brass rod, aluminum tubing,

Delron,

nylon rod, etc). www.smallparts.com
Sphinx: http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/sphinx/ desiccant drying

material

Tool Crib: 1-800-358-3096 http://www.toolcribofthenorth.com
Wag-Aero, Inc: Box 181 1216 Norta Rd, Lyons, WI 53148
Wicks Aircraft Supply: 1-800-221-9425 http://www.wicks.com/aircraft

I hope this helps in your quest for building your aircraft. Have a good

time

and keep us posted on your progress.

Terry Dazey
Rebel #662

PS. We also have a Pacific Northwest Rebel Builders Web Site
http://communities.msn.com/NWRebelExperimentalAircraft that Chuck Bailey

and

Chuck
Scourpa started. Signing on is pretty self -explainatory, but if you have
problems, one of the two Chucks (is that Chuck squared or two Chuckles?)

can

fill you in on how to log on etc. There are a few photos and a forum.

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[Mike Davis]

I followed Mike Kimball's example and just got a small awl... put the point
into the rivet and give it a tap with a hammer, and out comes the mandrel.
I think I paid about $3 for the one I got.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam

Gee for $12.50 I must try that. Most of my rivet heads drill off without
the mandrel getting in the way. Those that do interfere with the drill
can be a pain if you can't get at the back to rip out the mandrel with a
pair of diagonal (or end nipping) wire cutters and the material is also
too thin to use a center punch.

Even as a confessed Tool guy I've noticed this list of tools is getting
darn near long enough to build a 747... ;)

Ken

Alan Hepburn wrote:

Further to the extensive lists already provided, you're gooing to find,
sooner rather than later, that you have to remove some rivets. Even if
you're perfect, Murphy's instructions are far from that, and tell you to
rivet some areas prematurely. So, get yourself a Noxon spring centre

punch

(US Tool Catalogue page 127, part # TP294S), and grind the "heavy blow"

end

down to the diameter of the mandrel on a 1/8" Avex rivet. To remove the
rivet, place the puch in the mandrel hole and give it one or two whacks,
then drill off the rivet head. Prior to this, I was using a regular

punch

and a weight to stop the part from getting damaged, but this works like

a

charm!

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[Terry Dazey]

Rebelers:

Wanna go one better? Take a concrete nail (the shank is not quite 3/16 inch)
and grind 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the tip so it looks like a small drift pin
punch (3/32?? constant diameter tip). Make one for the 3/16 inch rivets too.
Light, small and cheap. About .02 cents U.S.

Chuck Bailey gave me one FREE! Now, that's cheap.

Have fun building.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington U.S.A.

I followed Mike Kimball's example and just got a small awl... put the point
into the rivet and give it a tap with a hammer, and out comes the mandrel.
I think I paid about $3 for the one I got.

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[klehman]

Gee for $12.50 I must try that. Most of my rivet heads drill off without
the mandrel getting in the way. Those that do interfere with the drill
can be a pain if you can't get at the back to rip out the mandrel with a
pair of diagonal (or end nipping) wire cutters and the material is also
too thin to use a center punch.

Even as a confessed Tool guy I've noticed this list of tools is getting
darn near long enough to build a 747... ;)

Ken

Alan Hepburn wrote:

Further to the extensive lists already provided, you're gooing to find,
sooner rather than later, that you have to remove some rivets. Even if
you're perfect, Murphy's instructions are far from that, and tell you to
rivet some areas prematurely. So, get yourself a Noxon spring centre punch
(US Tool Catalogue page 127, part # TP294S), and grind the "heavy blow" end
down to the diameter of the mandrel on a 1/8" Avex rivet. To remove the
rivet, place the puch in the mandrel hole and give it one or two whacks,
then drill off the rivet head. Prior to this, I was using a regular punch
and a weight to stop the part from getting damaged, but this works like a
charm!

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[Mike Davis]

Guess we didn't offer enough detail... I just supposed that everyone knew we
only intended our list of tools to be used to knock out the mandrel, then
drill the head of and remove the rest of the rivet as you described below.
But you've certainly covered it beyond question now.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Chamberlin" <cham@quicklinks.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: tool kit from mam

Ok.....hate to say it but I haven't read one good answer yet...but then
again I guess it all boils down to whatever works for you.
First off...and words cannot impress upon you, that whenever a rivet is to
be removed that the utmost diligence must be taken so that the existing

hole

is not deteriorated or "oversized".

All of the above mentioned methods lead me to believe that the hole will

be

deformed unless you get lucky. The prescribed method ( and one that I

have

used for 25plus years) is to use the same sized drill as was used to
originally install the rivet. In this case ...a #30.....and if you are
worried. then a spring drill stop set to just below rivet head
depth.....will work. In the case of Avex Rivets as well as Cherry- Max (
which are unbelievably hard on Cobalt drills) it also help to use an
automatic centre punch on the stem just to make sure it is "Knocked Out"

to

just below skin depth. the proceed to drill in the centre until the

"Head"

of the rivet pops off. You should be left with a rivet donut on your drill
bit.

As far as the remaining shank of the rivet...it can be easily be removed
with either a pair of pliers or by using the same automatic centre punch

as

you used to knock the stem down.

If the material ( I.e.: skin) is deformed at all, ( as in sorta looks like
it has been dimpled) you can use a plastic hammer on a good solid surface

to

hammer it flat and back into the round hole shape....in the case of a
dimpled skin it is better to hammer the round hole back first and then
re-dimple it...making sure that the hole is not oversize first.


Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Terry Dazey
Sent: September 25, 2003 3:08 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: tool kit from mam


Rebelers:

Wanna go one better? Take a concrete nail (the shank is not quite 3/16

inch)

and grind 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the tip so it looks like a small drift pin
punch (3/32?? constant diameter tip). Make one for the 3/16 inch rivets

too.

Light, small and cheap. About .02 cents U.S.

Chuck Bailey gave me one FREE! Now, that's cheap.

Have fun building.

Terry Dazey
Rebel 662
Sumner, Washington U.S.A.

I followed Mike Kimball's example and just got a small awl... put the

point

into the rivet and give it a tap with a hammer, and out comes the

mandrel.

I think I paid about $3 for the one I got.

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