up. Haven't got them installed yet but will by the weekend. Getting the
toe-in measured took a bit of time - measure three or more times and
then do it if any agree. : )
Garry
068R
Mike Kimball wrote:
I have two tapered shims that came with my Super Rebel kit. One has more
taper than the other. I guess you just choose which one will do what you
need. Then you cut them for top and bottom bolts. I didn't need them. My
wheels are good as is. If you want them, let me know off-line and I'll ship
them to you.
Mike
044SR
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Wright
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 7:22 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel camber with die spring gear
Yes. I had concluded that tapered shims would do the job. Spacing is
1.75" so thickness is not very great for 1* shift. About 0.03" will do
it for difference between the two hole. Thanks Ken.
Garry
Ken wrote:Welllllll.....
I'd probably make tapered shims. As a wild guess - if the bolt holes are
3" apart - then one degree means shimming 3/60" or a shim that is 0.050"
thicker over the 3". So using homemade aluminum washers (possible
rectangular) is not out of the question. I'd put a thin spacer under one
bolt and a thick one under the other on both sides (staggered of
course). Might be worth checking the gear legs for any bends or twists
first.
One degree is one foot in 60 feet. Might not be worth worrying about.
Other thing is whether the 1 degree is 3 point or tail up. I think
mine is 0 toe with the tail up and some toe out with all three wheels on
the ground.
Somebody here mentioned rotating the axle 1/4 turn and milling new flats
but that's a lot of work and the extra bolt holes just might cause
enough stress concentration to be a concern.
Ken
Bob Patterson wrote:
Hmmmmmm........ a really long 4 x 4 ????!!!!
Any suggestions, Ken ?
I guess Wayne has headed out to Temagami for
the summer .....
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