[rebel-builders] wheel camber with die spring gear

[Garry Wright]

Thanks anyway Mike but we have machining capability here and made some
up. Haven't got them installed yet but will by the weekend. Getting the
toe-in measured took a bit of time - measure three or more times and
then do it if any agree. : )

Garry
068R

Mike Kimball wrote:

I have two tapered shims that came with my Super Rebel kit. One has more
taper than the other. I guess you just choose which one will do what you
need. Then you cut them for top and bottom bolts. I didn't need them. My
wheels are good as is. If you want them, let me know off-line and I'll ship
them to you.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Wright
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 7:22 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel camber with die spring gear

Yes. I had concluded that tapered shims would do the job. Spacing is
1.75" so thickness is not very great for 1* shift. About 0.03" will do
it for difference between the two hole. Thanks Ken.

Garry

Ken wrote:

Welllllll.....

I'd probably make tapered shims. As a wild guess - if the bolt holes are
3" apart - then one degree means shimming 3/60" or a shim that is 0.050"
thicker over the 3". So using homemade aluminum washers (possible
rectangular) is not out of the question. I'd put a thin spacer under one
bolt and a thick one under the other on both sides (staggered of
course). Might be worth checking the gear legs for any bends or twists
first.

One degree is one foot in 60 feet. Might not be worth worrying about.
Other thing is whether the 1 degree is 3 point or tail up. I think
mine is 0 toe with the tail up and some toe out with all three wheels on
the ground.

Somebody here mentioned rotating the axle 1/4 turn and milling new flats
but that's a lot of work and the extra bolt holes just might cause
enough stress concentration to be a concern.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

Hmmmmmm........ a really long 4 x 4 ????!!!!

Any suggestions, Ken ?

I guess Wayne has headed out to Temagami for
the summer .....

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[Garry Wright]

The group may well be interested in the outcome of this exercise. After
fiddling around with wedges to fix a toed-in right main, I decided I
would try to figure out why it was toed in. (Not sure why this epiphany
took so long to occur - age?) It turned out that the drag strut on the
right was built 7/8" longer than the one on the left. (Origins of the
gear are vague - not the same as the plane). The consequences of this
were that the plane would always push left on landing - sometimes fairly
severely. Since I was 'rusty' when I started with the land gear, I
thought this was just me, not the plane. This meant that every landing
was probably an incipient ground loop and only considerable attention
and care kept it from actually happening.

After cutting the drag strut by the appropriate amount the plane lands
straight and true with no tendency to loop when landed right. It even
bounces less. I guess the toed-in wheel was exerting quite a large force
both lateral and vertical. Now those 25' runways are no problem at all.
As long as I don't get overconfident. I'm very happy with today's test
flight.

Garry
068R

Mike Kimball wrote:

I have two tapered shims that came with my Super Rebel kit. One has more
taper than the other. I guess you just choose which one will do what you
need. Then you cut them for top and bottom bolts. I didn't need them. My
wheels are good as is. If you want them, let me know off-line and I'll ship
them to you.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Wright
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 7:22 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] wheel camber with die spring gear

Yes. I had concluded that tapered shims would do the job. Spacing is
1.75" so thickness is not very great for 1* shift. About 0.03" will do
it for difference between the two hole. Thanks Ken.

Garry

Ken wrote:

Welllllll.....

I'd probably make tapered shims. As a wild guess - if the bolt holes are
3" apart - then one degree means shimming 3/60" or a shim that is 0.050"
thicker over the 3". So using homemade aluminum washers (possible
rectangular) is not out of the question. I'd put a thin spacer under one
bolt and a thick one under the other on both sides (staggered of
course). Might be worth checking the gear legs for any bends or twists
first.

One degree is one foot in 60 feet. Might not be worth worrying about.
Other thing is whether the 1 degree is 3 point or tail up. I think
mine is 0 toe with the tail up and some toe out with all three wheels on
the ground.

Somebody here mentioned rotating the axle 1/4 turn and milling new flats
but that's a lot of work and the extra bolt holes just might cause
enough stress concentration to be a concern.

Ken

Bob Patterson wrote:

Hmmmmmm........ a really long 4 x 4 ????!!!!

Any suggestions, Ken ?

I guess Wayne has headed out to Temagami for
the summer .....

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