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[rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

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Ken

[rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:17 pm

Craig

For the "rib inside the outboard rib", I just put a doubler on the
inboard side of the rib. The doubler is just a strip of metal with one
90 degree bend to make a flange onto the spar. You have one extra rivet
into the spar and two or more joining the doubler to the (vertical
forward and aft side) face of the rib. That prevents the rib from
rotating on the original one rivet that it had into the spar.

Put another way. Looking vertically down onto the assembly. The forward
flange of the original rib points outboard and is rivetted to the spar.
Add the doubler and you now also have a flange pointing inboard and
rivetted to the spar.

Happy New Year to all.
Ken

Craig Walls wrote:
Hi All! Happy New Year!!



I'm working on the elevators and I'm ready to add the extra reinforcement
pieces at the outboard end. There are 2 flat pieces that tuck up between
the rib and skin (no problem) and there's one that looks like a rib that
fits inside the rib.



My question is: is there a pattern floating around somewhere for that piece
that goes inside the rib or do I get my first lesson in fabbing curved
aluminum parts?



Update: I still haven't finished the fin. After two tries I was sick of
it. Luckily, I'm having success with the rudder and elevators! I do think
I know where I screwed it up, though. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to
just use some flat stock and put creases in it or pay MAM $144 ea for them.
Cheers, Craig















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Craig Walls

[rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

Post by Craig Walls » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:17 pm

That seems extremely simple. I guess I don't know the hx behind this fix.
Thanks for the tip. Today (and yesterday) was a good build day. CW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 4:27 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

Craig

For the "rib inside the outboard rib", I just put a doubler on the
inboard side of the rib. The doubler is just a strip of metal with one
90 degree bend to make a flange onto the spar. You have one extra rivet
into the spar and two or more joining the doubler to the (vertical
forward and aft side) face of the rib. That prevents the rib from
rotating on the original one rivet that it had into the spar.

Put another way. Looking vertically down onto the assembly. The forward
flange of the original rib points outboard and is rivetted to the spar.
Add the doubler and you now also have a flange pointing inboard and
rivetted to the spar.

Happy New Year to all.
Ken

Craig Walls wrote:
Hi All! Happy New Year!!



I'm working on the elevators and I'm ready to add the extra reinforcement
pieces at the outboard end. There are 2 flat pieces that tuck up between
the rib and skin (no problem) and there's one that looks like a rib that
fits inside the rib.



My question is: is there a pattern floating around somewhere for that piece
that goes inside the rib or do I get my first lesson in fabbing curved
aluminum parts?



Update: I still haven't finished the fin. After two tries I was sick of
it. Luckily, I'm having success with the rudder and elevators! I do think
I know where I screwed it up, though. Now I'm trying to decide if I want
to
just use some flat stock and put creases in it or pay MAM $144 ea for them.
Cheers, Craig















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Ken

[rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:17 pm

This is another Fix from the wonderful world of Wayne and he has posted
the history.
Elevator counterweight applies up and down force on the outboard rib.
Rib rotates back and forth a bit on the rivet into the spar.
Top and bottom elevator skins eventually start cracking.
The skin doublers will delay or perhaps solve the issue but stopping the
rotation is the key I think.
Ken

Craig Walls wrote:
That seems extremely simple. I guess I don't know the hx behind this fix.
Thanks for the tip. Today (and yesterday) was a good build day. CW

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 4:27 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel Elevator Reinforcement

Craig

For the "rib inside the outboard rib", I just put a doubler on the
inboard side of the rib. The doubler is just a strip of metal with one
90 degree bend to make a flange onto the spar. You have one extra rivet
into the spar and two or more joining the doubler to the (vertical
forward and aft side) face of the rib. That prevents the rib from
rotating on the original one rivet that it had into the spar.

Put another way. Looking vertically down onto the assembly. The forward
flange of the original rib points outboard and is rivetted to the spar.
Add the doubler and you now also have a flange pointing inboard and
rivetted to the spar.

Happy New Year to all.
Ken

Craig Walls wrote:


Hi All! Happy New Year!!



I'm working on the elevators and I'm ready to add the extra reinforcement
pieces at the outboard end. There are 2 flat pieces that tuck up between
the rib and skin (no problem) and there's one that looks like a rib that
fits inside the rib.



My question is: is there a pattern floating around somewhere for that piece
that goes inside the rib or do I get my first lesson in fabbing curved
aluminum parts?



Update: I still haven't finished the fin. After two tries I was sick of
it. Luckily, I'm having success with the rudder and elevators! I do think
I know where I screwed it up, though. Now I'm trying to decide if I want

to

just use some flat stock and put creases in it or pay MAM $144 ea for them.
Cheers, Craig






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