I suspect the taper was partly for looks and partly to save
weight ..... but I'm just guessing. ;-)
Sounds like you are getting right into it, and having a
good learning experience - should be no problems in future ! :-)
If you can possibly do it, please take a couple (or more !) of pictures
of the former doubler & the outside doubler to post into
the Files section here. Just email them to me if that's
a problem, and I'll shrink the image sizes & post them for
you. Things like this are a GREAT help to all the other builders !!
Thanks !
--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
http://www.prosumers.ca
http://bpatterson.qhealthbeauty.com
http://apatterson2.qhealthzone.com
http://apatterson2.ordermygift.com
-------------------------------orig.-------------------------
On Saturday 15 December 2007 20:05, John Peterson wrote:
I have just completed a rear float attachment fix which was caused by
improper riveting of the floor side panels by the original builder. Upon
inspection, the floor rivets were drilled too close into the former, ie
right next to the inside edge which affected the strength of the fuselage
former and ultimately caused a wrinkle with a hard landing. With the advise
of Wayne O'Shea and thanks again Wayne for the assistance on this, we were
able to laminate the former going over the rear strut attachment, down
across the cutout section and into the floor bracing. Worked out excellent
and we bolted it all together with 3/16" bolts. Two things from this - one
is taking care to be sure when riveting the inside floor and side panels to
be sure they are properly aligned on the inside. I know it may be a simple
thing for some but in this case, it was the root cause of the problem.
Secondly, we areputting on the outside skin and doing the tie in with the
upper part of the fuselage former, I think this is one of the Ontario mods.
My question is when doing this over lap piece, is there any advantage to
making it come to a point(not a sharp point but approx. 2" at the top) vs.
just making it straight up the whole width of the piece that is used to
overlap., in essence a rectangular piece. I have seen the ones done on
Garry Wrights and Kens a/c and they are both tapered going up. Is that
taper necessary for strength or is it a matter of looks.
Appreciate the help on this question
Thanks in advance
John Peterson
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