on trying to understand the manual sometimes ans then
having to redo things later I think all you can do is
make things better!! I'll be getting one of your Float
CD's when I get to that point also.
Keith
--- "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca> wrote:
http://www.irishfield.on.ca/gallery/randyfuselage3.jpgGlad someone appreciates the post Rich and note that
while I am sharing some
links to pictures on my website, to help builders
out, they are not for
uplink to other storage mediums other than your own
computer. If I
want/wanted to upload them elsewhere I will/would do
it myself. I'm
disturbed by some liberties being taken around here
with privately shared
pictures and private emails lately.
It's just so much nicer to throw an already built
bulkhead into place, that
is already riveted to the right width etc. Just cut
the side channels to
length and put it in place. Another thing I like to
do when I cut them.....
is too cut with an extra 3/4" of length. Then I
drill, with a #11 drill, on
the side flange's radius at the 3/4" mark and then
clip the side off and
bend over what's left for built in flanges and skip
the necessity of using
ST-40 angles, per the manual, to tie them in.
Also right after you are done building the bulkheads
in the jig, take two of
the square sets and do the ST-40 reinforcements to
the cut out areas on two
of them.... so that they are ready for when you are
epoxy/riveting the
overlaps. These ones are for the top of "F" and it's
doubler bulkhead for
the rear wing attach fittings. I also like to do the
side cut outs on the
"F" bulkhead just to strengthen it up a tad
more....so where the manuals
says cut 4.... cut 6 instead.... and put 4 of them
on F covering the top and
side cutouts and 2 on the other bulkheads top cut
outs only.
Now a few steps before you need these
bulkheads........
If you can, you should also bend up the edges of the
Fus-39......... after
you have cleco'd it to "A"..... marked it for
location on the outside edge
of the bent flange of the lower tailcone skin. Then
remove and bend the
Fus-39 from the mark to the forward end of the
sheet... about a 1/4" in from
the edge...both sides. This will hold the Fus-39
flat and make it a lot
easier setting up the tailcone transisiton to the
fus-40 and for placing the
"F" bulkhead. I also like to continue the three
crease lines from the
tailcone onto the Fus-39 to stop oil canning. I also
do this onto the Fus-40
as well and the Fus-25 to continue the side crease
to the door skin which
has a crease in it....just so it looks right!
Also..when you have the carrythru cage clamped down
and ready to place the
Fus-40..be sure you have centerlines drawn on
everthing. Be sure to
constantly check that the cage is square to the
centerline of the table. Now
before you place that Fus-40.....Take a couple nails
and drive one on each
side of the fus-39..about 4 inches back from the
front edge...so they hold
the Fus-39 centered on the table...as once you place
Fus-40 you can't see
the C/L anymore. The nails also mainly keep the
tailcone from moving side to
side as you attach things.
Fus-40 WILL NOT cleco to the Fus-39 as stated in the
manual. You will also
most likely find that Fus-39 is about 3/4" longer
than it needs to be after
placing the rear drag brace bulkhead. I trim this
off before going any
further. Fus-40 still doesn't cleco to
Fus-39...there are no pre-punched
matching holes. The only way to get Fus-40 in the
right place is to make
sure it's on the table centerline and then install
the most forward bulkhead
in the cabin floor. Cleco it to the Fus-26's and
then move the Fus-40 until
the prepunched holes line up in the bulkhead and the
fus-40. Drill and cleco
to table AFTER making sure you have the Fus-26 area
straight on the table.
This is really easy...if you c/l is right on the
centerline of your table
and your table is 48" wide..then you can draw a line
about 1 15/16" in on
both sides and the Fus-26's should run right along
the line. Another trick
for check for straightness....take a full length of
ST-31 and hold it
against the side.... from the Fus-4, across the
fus-26/fus-25 and to
bulkhead A. Check this constantly and always be eye
balling cabin squareness
as you place new pieces....as it's very easy to
nudge something crooked
while working in this area for a fair amount of
time.
As for the CD...I'm still working on it. 758
pictures of this build up until
this point...
-----------------------------------------------------------------Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Dodson" <r_dodson@yahoo.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:30 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rebel Fuselage
building tip - probably applies
to Elite as well.
market your CD on theWayne,
Thanks SO much for this tip! Another reason to<rebel-builders@dcsol.com>fuse!
Rich
Rebel 806
----- Original Message ----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: Murphy Rebel Builders Listtip - probably appliesSent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 1:04:42 AM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rebel Fuselage buildingto Elite as well.
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