[rebel-builders] Rivet Removal

[Mike Kimball]

You don't need a special rivet removal tool. Those are for bucked rivets.
The cool thing about blind rivets is that once you punch the mandrel out
(step 1) the hole in the rivet centers your drill bit which is something you
don't get when drilling out bucked rivets, hence the need for a rivet
removal tool for those. The easy four step process is as follows:

1. Punch out the mandrel. I have been using a cheap scribe that I have
repeatedly reground to get a nice new point when it wears down or gets
damaged. Try to grind the taper out of the scribe and it'll be easier to
get out after the mandrel is punched out.

2. Using the same size drill as originally used for final sizing the hole
prior to riveting, drill into the head of the rivet. Some people use a bit
that's one size smaller which might help prevent damage to the rivet hole.

3. Turn the same drill bit upside down and use it to wiggle the head off.

4. Punch out the rest of the rivet. I found a nice flat-faced punch that
is just the right size for 1/8 inch rivets to do this. You could use an old
drill bit as a punch too.

You could actually just drill all the way through after punching out the
mandrel and most of the time you get the rivet out without damaging the
hole, but once in a while the hole can get damaged with this shortcut. Some
holes will be damaged using the four step process above too. No big deal,
just go up to a 5/32 rivet. Remember, Avex rivets are known to be much
better at "filling" a less than perfect hole than bucked rivets. Be
advised, sometimes the dang mandrel will simply not cooperate and won't come
out. You have to get creative and sometimes have a damaged hole to deal
with when this happens. When the mandrel stands a little proud of the rivet
head it can be challenging to get your punch onto it without slipping off to
the side. Hold your tongue just right and cross your eyes and you'll get
it.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Richard E. Swan
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:19 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Rivet Removal

Hello Again Murhpy Builders and Flyers:

I thought I had saved in my "tips and techniques" files the procedures for
removing blind rivets, but now can't seem to find it.

I'm just about finished cleaning up the wings of the project I purchased and
will soon be moving to phase 2 - replacing a couple of sheets under the
cabin area. I've noticed there are a couple of the aircraft suppliers that
offer "rivet removal" tools, but these are kind of pricey. Is there a "home
made" method that works just as well, or am I better off going with a tool
designed for this purpose?

thanks,
Richard



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[Dave Ricker]

Presuming you're working with the typical Avex rivit all you need is an automatic centre punch and your normal #30 drill. Give the mandrel a couple of hits with the punch to drive it back and drill the head off the rivit. You can use the punch again to drive the remains of the rivit out of the underlying layers of metal. You may need to knock the mandrel back more than once during the drilling.

Cheers

Dave

"Richard E. Swan" wrote:

Hello Again Murhpy Builders and Flyers:

I thought I had saved in my "tips and techniques" files the procedures for removing blind rivets, but now can't seem to find it.

I'm just about finished cleaning up the wings of the project I purchased and will soon be moving to phase 2 - replacing a couple of sheets under the cabin area. I've noticed there are a couple of the aircraft suppliers that offer "rivet removal" tools, but these are kind of pricey. Is there a "home made" method that works just as well, or am I better off going with a tool designed for this purpose?

thanks,
Richard

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--
David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Ken]

Often I can take the rivet head off without knocking the mandrel further
back. I like the automatic center punch but sometimes I have to support
around the back of the rivet to use it on thin metal. Another technique
for thin material is to squeeze the back of the rivet with side cutters
or end nippers. That often retracts the mandrel enough to drill off the
head. . I'm a proponent of a one size smaller drill bit (7/64") in case
I drill a bit deeper than just the rivet head and it isn't centered.
Ken

Dave Ricker wrote:

Presuming you're working with the typical Avex rivit all you need is an automatic centre punch and your normal #30 drill. Give the mandrel a couple of hits with the punch to drive it back and drill the head off the rivit. You can use the punch again to drive the remains of the rivit out of the underlying layers of metal. You may need to knock the mandrel back more than once during the drilling.

Cheers

Dave


snip

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[Drew Dalgleish]

At 11:19 PM 2/24/2007 -0600, you wrote:

Hello Again Murhpy Builders and Flyers:

I thought I had saved in my "tips and techniques" files the procedures for

removing blind rivets, but now can't seem to find it.

I'm just about finished cleaning up the wings of the project I purchased

and will soon be moving to phase 2 - replacing a couple of sheets under the
cabin area. I've noticed there are a couple of the aircraft suppliers that
offer "rivet removal" tools, but these are kind of pricey. Is there a
"home made" method that works just as well, or am I better off going with a
tool designed for this purpose?

thanks,
Richard

All the other tricks plus often I like to drill just to the mandrel without
knocking it back then cut the head off with a wood chisel
Drew



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[Ted Waltman]

The only time it is worth just drilling the head off then using a punch to
"pop" out the rivet tail is when you have the ability to back up the
material on the other (back) side (e.g. with wood or a bucking bar). If you
try to punch out the rivet tail on thin material you will only manage to
create a nice dent in your part.

If the rivets are on a flange (e.g. a rib) that you can get to, then using a
rivet shank removal tool like this from ACS works well
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivet.php ).

A 1/8" drill is of course a few thousands smaller than a #30, so using a
1/8" drill to remove rivets works well in some situations.

Also, another trick is to take a pair of inexpensive diagonal cutting pliers
(dykes) and use a grinder to get a truly flat edge on one side. I've used
this modified tool thousands of times to grab the rivet tail and
carefully/successfully work the tail out of material.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Beall
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Having just had to drill out a bunch of rivets on my lower tail wrap, I
highly suggest you don't dip your rivets in anything that will 'glue' them
in!

Man, drilling the AVEX rivets out is a b@&ch! FWIW, I found it easier and
cleaner to drill the rivet all the way through with a 1/8 inch drill (not
#30) than to only drill the head and snap the head off. I did considerably
more damage trying to get the rivet 'tails' off that I did by just drilling
the rivet all the way out. Your milage may vary.

-Jason



--- On Thu, 12/30/10, Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org> wrote:

[quote]From: Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 7:34 AM
Jerry,

I chromate all mating surfaces for sure.

[Bob Palmer]

I have been carefully drilling the head off with a #30. Slow rotation of
the bit about four or five turn till the head comes off then drill the
tail out with a #40. The smaller diameter bit relieves the tail and
twists it out. If the head comes off properly then it leaves a small
dimple for perfect alignment of the #40 bit and so there is no danger of
enlarging the hole beyond what is already done by stretching from the
original rivet. I would not use a punch on anything thinner than .032.

Bob.

On 12/30/2010 9:46 AM, Ted Waltman wrote:

The only time it is worth just drilling the head off then using a punch to
"pop" out the rivet tail is when you have the ability to back up the
material on the other (back) side (e.g. with wood or a bucking bar). If you
try to punch out the rivet tail on thin material you will only manage to
create a nice dent in your part.

If the rivets are on a flange (e.g. a rib) that you can get to, then using a
rivet shank removal tool like this from ACS works well
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivet.php ).

A 1/8" drill is of course a few thousands smaller than a #30, so using a
1/8" drill to remove rivets works well in some situations.

Also, another trick is to take a pair of inexpensive diagonal cutting pliers
(dykes) and use a grinder to get a truly flat edge on one side. I've used
this modified tool thousands of times to grab the rivet tail and
carefully/successfully work the tail out of material.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Beall
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Having just had to drill out a bunch of rivets on my lower tail wrap, I
highly suggest you don't dip your rivets in anything that will 'glue' them
in!

Man, drilling the AVEX rivets out is a b@&ch! FWIW, I found it easier and
cleaner to drill the rivet all the way through with a 1/8 inch drill (not
#30) than to only drill the head and snap the head off. I did considerably
more damage trying to get the rivet 'tails' off that I did by just drilling
the rivet all the way out. Your milage may vary.

-Jason



--- On Thu, 12/30/10, Ted Waltman<ted@vafm.org> wrote:

From: Ted Waltman<ted@vafm.org>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 7:34 AM
Jerry,

I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally,
though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a
time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before
pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this).
While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also
makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a
clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no
longer recommend
this "dipping" step.

To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all
parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were
doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the
skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a
mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of
construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part
to dry.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Gentlemen,

I'm
getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force
Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a
variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial
discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality
(something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing
seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that
would make my work
easier?



Happy New Year

Jerry Folkerts

SR2500 #093









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[Bob Andrews]

I'm sure someone mentioned it ... I fly through these pretty fast. But just
in case, punch the steel mandrel out the tail of the rivet before drilling.
Several items can be used as a "mandrel removal tool". A regular punch with
the end ground down to provide a 3/8" length or so narrow diameter cylinder
(no point at the end) that is small enough in diameter to facilitate getting
into the "hole in the head" ... to then drive the mandrel out the shop side
(tail) with a good blow by a small steel hammer. I even used a 2-1/2" dry
wall screw once ... worked out ok. Once the steel rivet mandrel has been
punch out, the drilling can commence. I also have found drilling all the
way through for over lapped skin rivets works well. Again, with the
mandrel's removed, the drill tends to follow the inside mandrel hole pretty
well. So ... first punch out (remove) the mandrels from all the rivets that
are to be removed ... then pick up the drill and have at it.

Cheers, Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jose &
Terry
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:40 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

Hi, my two cents, I've drilled off the head and used a push punch center
punch. Usually 1 to 3 careful snaps and the tail is out with out damage.
Grind the punch point flat first. My center punch is adjustable so I can
make it have less force when I need.

Cheers

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Waltman" <ted@vafm.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

The only time it is worth just drilling the head off then using a punch to
"pop" out the rivet tail is when you have the ability to back up the
material on the other (back) side (e.g. with wood or a bucking bar). If
you
try to punch out the rivet tail on thin material you will only manage to
create a nice dent in your part.

If the rivets are on a flange (e.g. a rib) that you can get to, then using

a
rivet shank removal tool like this from ACS works well
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivet.php ).

A 1/8" drill is of course a few thousands smaller than a #30, so using a
1/8" drill to remove rivets works well in some situations.

Also, another trick is to take a pair of inexpensive diagonal cutting
pliers
(dykes) and use a grinder to get a truly flat edge on one side. I've used
this modified tool thousands of times to grab the rivet tail and
carefully/successfully work the tail out of material.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jason
Beall
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Having just had to drill out a bunch of rivets on my lower tail wrap, I
highly suggest you don't dip your rivets in anything that will 'glue' them
in!

Man, drilling the AVEX rivets out is a b@&ch! FWIW, I found it easier and
cleaner to drill the rivet all the way through with a 1/8 inch drill (not
#30) than to only drill the head and snap the head off. I did considerably
more damage trying to get the rivet 'tails' off that I did by just
drilling
the rivet all the way out. Your milage may vary.

-Jason



--- On Thu, 12/30/10, Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org> wrote:

From: Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 7:34 AM
Jerry,

I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally,
though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a
time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before
pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this).
While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also
makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a
clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no
longer recommend
this "dipping" step.

To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all
parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were
doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the
skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a
mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of
construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part
to dry.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Gentlemen,

I'm
getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force
Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a
variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial
discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality
(something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing
seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that
would make my work
easier?



Happy New Year

Jerry Folkerts

SR2500 #093









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[Jose & Terry]

Absolutely right, I forgot to mention I push the mandrel out ( usually not
all the way )using again my push puncher that is not ground flat and the
drill follows the center hole usually perfectly. Sometimes it drills itself
completely out and if it doesn't thats when the ground down snap punch comes
into play, no hitting, just push and pop it goes, just like a mini impact.
I've also grabbed the tails from the back with side cutters after drilling
the heads, that works too.

Cheers

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Andrews" <robert@montanasky.us>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 11:27 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

I'm sure someone mentioned it ... I fly through these pretty fast. But
just
in case, punch the steel mandrel out the tail of the rivet before
drilling.
Several items can be used as a "mandrel removal tool". A regular punch
with
the end ground down to provide a 3/8" length or so narrow diameter
cylinder
(no point at the end) that is small enough in diameter to facilitate
getting
into the "hole in the head" ... to then drive the mandrel out the shop
side
(tail) with a good blow by a small steel hammer. I even used a 2-1/2" dry
wall screw once ... worked out ok. Once the steel rivet mandrel has been
punch out, the drilling can commence. I also have found drilling all the
way through for over lapped skin rivets works well. Again, with the
mandrel's removed, the drill tends to follow the inside mandrel hole
pretty
well. So ... first punch out (remove) the mandrels from all the rivets
that
are to be removed ... then pick up the drill and have at it.

Cheers, Bob 612e

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jose
&
Terry
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:40 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

Hi, my two cents, I've drilled off the head and used a push punch center
punch. Usually 1 to 3 careful snaps and the tail is out with out damage.
Grind the punch point flat first. My center punch is adjustable so I can
make it have less force when I need.

Cheers

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Waltman" <ted@vafm.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

The only time it is worth just drilling the head off then using a punch
to
"pop" out the rivet tail is when you have the ability to back up the
material on the other (back) side (e.g. with wood or a bucking bar). If
you
try to punch out the rivet tail on thin material you will only manage to
create a nice dent in your part.

If the rivets are on a flange (e.g. a rib) that you can get to, then
using

a
rivet shank removal tool like this from ACS works well
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivet.php ).

A 1/8" drill is of course a few thousands smaller than a #30, so using a
1/8" drill to remove rivets works well in some situations.

Also, another trick is to take a pair of inexpensive diagonal cutting
pliers
(dykes) and use a grinder to get a truly flat edge on one side. I've
used
this modified tool thousands of times to grab the rivet tail and
carefully/successfully work the tail out of material.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jason
Beall
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Having just had to drill out a bunch of rivets on my lower tail wrap, I
highly suggest you don't dip your rivets in anything that will 'glue'
them
in!

Man, drilling the AVEX rivets out is a b@&ch! FWIW, I found it easier and
cleaner to drill the rivet all the way through with a 1/8 inch drill (not
#30) than to only drill the head and snap the head off. I did
considerably
more damage trying to get the rivet 'tails' off that I did by just
drilling
the rivet all the way out. Your milage may vary.

-Jason



--- On Thu, 12/30/10, Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org> wrote:

From: Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 7:34 AM
Jerry,

I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally,
though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a
time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before
pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this).
While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also
makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a
clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no
longer recommend
this "dipping" step.

To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all
parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were
doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the
skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a
mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of
construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part
to dry.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Gentlemen,

I'm
getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force
Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a
variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial
discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality
(something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing
seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that
would make my work
easier?



Happy New Year

Jerry Folkerts

SR2500 #093









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[Jose & Terry]

Hi, my two cents, I've drilled off the head and used a push punch center
punch. Usually 1 to 3 careful snaps and the tail is out with out damage.
Grind the punch point flat first. My center punch is adjustable so I can
make it have less force when I need.

Cheers

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Waltman" <ted@vafm.org>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Rivet removal

The only time it is worth just drilling the head off then using a punch to
"pop" out the rivet tail is when you have the ability to back up the
material on the other (back) side (e.g. with wood or a bucking bar). If
you
try to punch out the rivet tail on thin material you will only manage to
create a nice dent in your part.

If the rivets are on a flange (e.g. a rib) that you can get to, then using
a
rivet shank removal tool like this from ACS works well
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivet.php ).

A 1/8" drill is of course a few thousands smaller than a #30, so using a
1/8" drill to remove rivets works well in some situations.

Also, another trick is to take a pair of inexpensive diagonal cutting
pliers
(dykes) and use a grinder to get a truly flat edge on one side. I've used
this modified tool thousands of times to grab the rivet tail and
carefully/successfully work the tail out of material.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Jason
Beall
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:16 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Having just had to drill out a bunch of rivets on my lower tail wrap, I
highly suggest you don't dip your rivets in anything that will 'glue' them
in!

Man, drilling the AVEX rivets out is a b@&ch! FWIW, I found it easier and
cleaner to drill the rivet all the way through with a 1/8 inch drill (not
#30) than to only drill the head and snap the head off. I did considerably
more damage trying to get the rivet 'tails' off that I did by just
drilling
the rivet all the way out. Your milage may vary.

-Jason



--- On Thu, 12/30/10, Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org> wrote:

From: Ted Waltman <ted@vafm.org>
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Thursday, December 30, 2010, 7:34 AM
Jerry,

I chromate all mating surfaces for sure. Generally,
though I know it adds
(some?) weight, I fully chromate all aluminum. For a
time, I also had
dipped each rivet tail in Stits EP-420/EP-430 primer before
pulling the
rivet (I know several builders who have done this).
While this last "dip"
step sure makes for a much better/stronger rivet, it also
makes it darn near
impossible to later drill out any of those rivets in a
clean manner without
enlarging the diameter of the original hole--so I do no
longer recommend
this "dipping" step.

To make your work easier, I started to debur and prime all
parts before
assembling a structure. In other words, if I were
doing the rudder, for
instance, I'd lay out all the rudder parts, including the
skin, and
debur/prime everything. That way I had a
mini-inventory at hand, didn't
have to go searching for this or that in the midst of
construction, and had
everything ready to go together without waiting for a part
to dry.

Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com
[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Jerald
Folkerts
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 7:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal, Primer, or Chromate

Gentlemen,

I'm
getting ready to pull the first rivets within the next
couple of weeks. I've been reading the Vans Air Force
Forum lists on
pro-seal, automotive primers, or chromates and have found a
variety of
opinions. It's not my intent to start a controversial
discussion, but would
like to hear your opinions as to the best quality
(something that will hold
up over time) and efficient method of sealing
seams/rivets. In addition,
are there any techniques for your preferred method that
would make my work
easier?



Happy New Year

Jerry Folkerts

SR2500 #093









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