hit. I rarely wheel land..gotta be blowin pretty darn hard 90* to the runway
before I risk the farm for a high speed arrival.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fisher" <rgfisher@zeuter.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:12 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
hi guys I have a question for those of you with wheels
how many of you wheel land ? if you do do you push the stick right
foreward when it is on the ground
the prop dosen`t touch right??
i`ve been three pointing but would like to try the other way any
ideas?
bob fisher rebel 342 off amphibs on wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "rebel-builders-d digest" <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders-d@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 8:00 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders-d] DIGEST - rebel-builders-d
vsiDigest of list: rebel-builders-d Total messages in digest: 6
1 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From : dfultz17086@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
2 Date : Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From : mkimball@gci.net
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
3 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From : admin@airnig.co.uk
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
4 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From : northernliving@sc.rr.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
5 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From : pequeajim@dcsol.com
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
6 Date : Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From : oifa@irishfield.on.ca
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 21:45:26 -0400
From: dfultz17086@earthlink.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt andcelebratingin case someone wanted to put in gyros.
Steve W. 637R
_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festivaltested---------- Digest Message #2 ----------the creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
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Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 18:13:48 -0800
From: mkimball@gci.net
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternatorbuton NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprisedtheI had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does and
seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
Ken
Mike Kimball wrote:
I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter onEliminatorthealternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later added"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. Thedoingdid help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
the
spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff orandsomething to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building
a
box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuffaircraftplugI thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.
Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap sparkRFwires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
lowinterference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, notofNAV/COMs.
Mike
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---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 09:09:23 +0100
From: admin@airnig.co.uk
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Hi Dale
I made paper cut-outs actual size of all the bits I wanted to fit on my
panel and stuck them on with blutak before I cut anything. Use the web to
download pictures of the units, then scale them to actual size and print
them out.
That way I avoided stuff not fitting (make the paper cut out maximum sizetoinstruments - sometimes things are larger behind the panel and it's easythatcut out a hole too close to something else that will interfere behind).
Also you can plan it in depth this way (although nothing I fitted cameplace.close to the firewall) and avoid hitting panel stiffeners etc.
Then you can sit in the seat and make engine noises and move things
around
till your happy that the bits you want in easy reach are in the bestcuttingI'd moved quite a few things slightly before I was happy and startedvsimetal.
Nig
745E
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Fultz
Sent: 21 October 2006 02:45
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
I want to thank all the guys that emailed ideas and opinions on the panel
build. Going to try and get it done next week so if anyone else has an
opinion please feel free to pass it along. Thanks again guys.. Dale
SR-033
N269DF
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve whitenect" <srwhitenect@hotmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Changes to panels
Hi Dale
I'm happy with my dash. A picture is in the files under interior.
Kept
as
much as I could on the left of the dash so everything is in my reach
without
leaning out of the seat. The electrical pannel is on a hinge and can
be
tilted down to work at the back after removing 7 or 8 screws. I put a
doubler to better support the instruments on the pannel and left enough
room
in the area of the two smaller instruments to the right of the alt andcelebratingin case someone wanted to put in gyros.
Steve W. 637R
_________________________________________________________________
Ready for the world's first international mobile film festivaltestedthe creative potential of today's youth? Check out Mobile Jam Fest for
your
a chance to WIN $10,000! www.mobilejamfest.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
---------- Digest Message #4 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:28:01 -0400
From: northernliving@sc.rr.com
To: rebel-builders
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
Mike - get a Bose Headset!
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Mike
Kimball
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 10:14 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
Yep. I need to try eliminating the alternator. I had the alternatorbuton NAPA's machine before I installed it and it passed then but you never
know. I could have lost a diode since then. I only just got the engine
running again so I can return to chasing radio noise. It looks possible
that my fuel pump is pushing the float needle off the seat and causing
problems. I am only reading 6 psi at the carb so I'm a little surprisedtheI had much better luck starting and running the engine at low RPM with
the
fuel pumps off, gravity feed only. However, the engine will not run
above
3000 RPM unless I turn a fuel pump on. Unless I want to adopt a fuel
pump
off at low RPM and on at high RPM operating technique I guess I'll need
to
add a fuel pressure regulator. I'm off to NAPA for a pressure regulator.
Thanks for the tips on radio noise Ken and Bob. In answer to Bob's
suggestions, my comm does not have a squelch but the audio panel does and
seems to be working properly. I am using a 30 year old David Clark right
now but I definitely plan an upgrade. No stuck mike problem.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2006 4:11 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Radio noise
I have 10 Taylor spiral core ignition wires with no apparent ignition
noise in the intercom or com radio regardless of what combination of
ignitions that I use. It is very unusual to have a problem with those.
Shielding high voltage components will only help radiated noise. So far
I don't think you know that it is radiated RF noise. In fact if power
line filters helped at all, I think that indicates that it is likely NOT
radiated RF although more than one thing could be happening. Shielding
will not help with noise on the power line or magnetic cross coupling.
Note that all the band aid filters in the world won't help much if there
is a bad diode in the alternator. Shots in the dark may not be the best
way to troubleshoot this. I'd still probably try running the nav
receiver off an independant battery or at least try running the engine
with the alternator turned off or with its drive belt removed.
Ken
Mike Kimball wrote:
I forgot to mention that I have the Ameri-King AK-950 DC line filter onEliminatorthealternator output wire and the Amer-King AK-950-FTR1 alternator filter
(capacitor to ground from the alternator as suggested) and I later added"Eliminator" power line filter to the NAV/COM power input. Thedoingdid help noticeably but there is still too much noise.
I'm quite interested in automotive engine conversions with respect to
the
spark plug wires, coils, and distributer. Just using stock stuff orandsomething to shield RF. My avionics guy started talking about building
a
box around the distributer and shielding the spark plug wires and stuffaircraftplugI thought, oh no, really?! I don't remember anything like that being
necessary on other conversions I've seen.
Oh yeah, just for thoroughness, I am using Taylor 409 spiral wrap sparkRFwires. One of the features of these wires as advertised by Taylor is
lowinterference. Of course, they are talking about car stereos, notAcidNAV/COMs.
Mike
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---------- Digest Message #5 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 15:34:23 -0800
From: pequeajim@dcsol.com
To: rbel-builders
Subject: Preping surfaces to cover
I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310 PhosphoriceverythingEtch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
Then I can start to cover.
Is all of this necessary?
---------- Digest Message #6 ----------
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:47:02 -0400
From: oifa@irishfield.on.ca
To: rebel-builders
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
NO! Glue it on and go !
Of course be sure no corrosion on anything before you start. Wipeclean with acetone and then glue the fabric on.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pequeajim@dcsol.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Preping surfaces to cover
----------I am covering my ailerons with the Poly-Fiber method.
It says to wash all the aluminum parts with Poly-Fiber E-2310
Phosphoric
Acid
Etch and Brightner with a Scotch Bright pad.
Then wash with the E-2300 Conversion coating.
Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer.
Then I can start to cover.
Is all of this necessary?
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