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[rebel-builders] Float building 101

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Ken

[rebel-builders] Float building 101

Post by Ken » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:52 am

Interesting. That might explain why I didn't have any cracked rivets or
broken stems in my fuel tanks. I used a lot of 6402's from the floats
when I built the tanks and saved many of the longer ones from the fuel
tanks for use in the floats. Actually I think it might have been 6404's
that came with my tank upgrade kit way back when.
Ken

Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
DO NOT try to use a hydroscopic curing sealant on a day like this! Tac time
reduced to 1hr 45 minutes from the usual 4 to 5 hours!

Build your floats in the winter when you're supposed to (low temps and
humidity) and don't try and make a mad end dash run on the three days it
decides to hit 38C and you're breathing thru a fresh air system with vane
pump that raises that air temp to 47 to 49 C.

Also...all you guys with float kits...order about a 1000 extra RR6403 tank
rivets before you start. I got lucky today and found a bag I'd tucked away
with just enough to get me by. All the holes for the angle that the prop
spray rails mount to need 6403's as the 6402's aren't long enough to go thru
the .050 angle, .040 bottom skin, .050 chine. The two rails alone account
for just over 210 rivets. They are also needed in various other positions
where keel strip meets a bulkhead flange etc. Also be careful not to use too
long of a grip rivet by mistake (watch as sometimes longer ones are mixed in
with the 6402's etc). When they pull too far they will crack open on the
"shop" head side as the bulb expands...and you'll have a leak thru the
mandrel hole. This applies to guys building fuel tanks as well....watch your
grip lengths.

:O)
Wayne





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