Torque tube lube

[Richard DeCiero]

Hello,
Wayne, Thanks for that tip on the "torque tube lube". I am just
finishing the lower firewall reinforcement and will then procede to the
additional tail wrap. I looked at several taildraggers at the local
airport last weekend in regards to the tailspring and their
construction. Your description of the utility trailer spring sounds good
and I am looking into one similar. I think that I will end up at one of
the local automotive spring shops to get a 3 leaf spring as I envision
it. 3 leafs of 1/4" x 1 3/4 spring steel and the length about the same
as the 5/8 ths thick aluminum murphy spring.
One aspect of the spring attach point that always has bothered me was
the aluminum strut attach bracket. Of the certified ships that I looked
at, none have attached stab struts to any part of the tailspring
clamping/holding mechanism. They all have tabs that are attached to the
fusealage ahead of the tailspring clamp. As I said, the alum strut
attach bracket has always bothered me. When I add the additional tail
wrap, I am going to have to remake the strut attach bracket and I am
going to remake it out of 4130 steel as this clamps directly against the
new steel tailspring. Now I know that there are many rebels flying with
the aluminum bracket and I don't believe there have been any problems.
But I will probably be at the forward end of the C/G anyway and can use
the weight in the tail without using lead. ANY COMMENTS! I purchased
the Scott's 3200 tailwheel and hope to get at it this weekend. For a
lower spring gear reinforcement I am going to add a 1/8" thick 4130
steel plate, 6" front to back, and about 8" in. This will be riveted to
the tubes and will pick up all three bolts. I will use cherry "Q" rivets
for high shear strength. I will probably be going to 3/8" outboard
bolts. All steel parts will painted with POR-15 which is a heavy duty
automotive paint.
To the new builders, I can highly recommend a set of step drills
for drilling holes in thin sheet. At first I thought that these were a
gimmick but I tried one and have found them to be very useful all around
the shop. From my perspective I have always tried to mechanize as many
operations as possible. For removing the 200 -300 clecos from each wing
surface I purchased a pneumatic operated cleco remove/install tool for
about $75.00 from Aircraft Spruce/Specialty. This tool is well worth the
money when you get to the wings. It also does not require a high CFM. I
purchase almost exclusivly from them unless they do not stock an item. I
have found them to be very reliable and they stand behind the products.
Also keep in mind that this airplane will cost you between $25,000 and
$45,000 with the $25,000 being an absolute minimum. Any tools that you
buy will be a small precentage of the cost and will preserve your body
for future use.

Thanks to all for your support and keep the comments coming,
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 446

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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

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Your following message has been delivered to the 145 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 21:43:43 on 26 Jan 2000.
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Richard, your welcome!

As for the "Unibits", I'm not sure how I ever built the first two aircraft
without owning one of these gems!!!!!! They usually sell for between $30 and
$45cdn, but are worth every dollar. Perfectly round holes, without changing
bits to increase size or tearing up your work!

As for the stab strut bracket, you have to do what ever it takes to set your
mind at ease! Flying won't be fun, if it's in fear!!!!

Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard DeCiero <rsdec1@star.net>
To: Rebel Builders <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 9:26 PM
Subject: Torque tube lube

Hello,
Wayne, Thanks for that tip on the "torque tube lube". I am just
finishing the lower firewall reinforcement and will then procede to the
additional tail wrap. I looked at several taildraggers at the local
airport last weekend in regards to the tailspring and their
construction. Your description of the utility trailer spring sounds good
and I am looking into one similar. I think that I will end up at one of
the local automotive spring shops to get a 3 leaf spring as I envision
it. 3 leafs of 1/4" x 1 3/4 spring steel and the length about the same
as the 5/8 ths thick aluminum murphy spring.
One aspect of the spring attach point that always has bothered me was
the aluminum strut attach bracket. Of the certified ships that I looked
at, none have attached stab struts to any part of the tailspring
clamping/holding mechanism. They all have tabs that are attached to the
fusealage ahead of the tailspring clamp. As I said, the alum strut
attach bracket has always bothered me. When I add the additional tail
wrap, I am going to have to remake the strut attach bracket and I am
going to remake it out of 4130 steel as this clamps directly against the
new steel tailspring. Now I know that there are many rebels flying with
the aluminum bracket and I don't believe there have been any problems.
But I will probably be at the forward end of the C/G anyway and can use
the weight in the tail without using lead. ANY COMMENTS! I purchased
the Scott's 3200 tailwheel and hope to get at it this weekend. For a
lower spring gear reinforcement I am going to add a 1/8" thick 4130
steel plate, 6" front to back, and about 8" in. This will be riveted to
the tubes and will pick up all three bolts. I will use cherry "Q" rivets
for high shear strength. I will probably be going to 3/8" outboard
bolts. All steel parts will painted with POR-15 which is a heavy duty
automotive paint.
To the new builders, I can highly recommend a set of step drills
for drilling holes in thin sheet. At first I thought that these were a
gimmick but I tried one and have found them to be very useful all around
the shop. From my perspective I have always tried to mechanize as many
operations as possible. For removing the 200 -300 clecos from each wing
surface I purchased a pneumatic operated cleco remove/install tool for
about $75.00 from Aircraft Spruce/Specialty. This tool is well worth the
money when you get to the wings. It also does not require a high CFM. I
purchase almost exclusivly from them unless they do not stock an item. I
have found them to be very reliable and they stand behind the products.
Also keep in mind that this airplane will cost you between $25,000 and
$45,000 with the $25,000 being an absolute minimum. Any tools that you
buy will be a small precentage of the cost and will preserve your body
for future use.

Thanks to all for your support and keep the comments coming,
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 446

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*

*----------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*----------------------------------------------------*




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