I have struggled to get foam glued together and pumped about 5 cans of
expanding foam into various areas to try and get a block to start carving
and sanding for my nosebowl. I've made a huge mess, the expanding foam has
huge cavities and hard spots, pieces of foam keep breaking off or coming
unglued and my balding head is getting balder. I've been using a hot glue
gun to glue foam blocks together. It's not working very well. Anybody have
any fiberglass experience that can give me tips on getting the foam in place
reliably so I can start carving. Once I have a good block I'm confident
that I can carve and shape the dang thing. I have thought about using
drywall patch to fill gaps and stuff since it cures very fast and is easy to
sand. There's also stuff like "Ultralight" body filler. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Mike (very frustrated) Kimball
044SR
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
Ahhh yes I remember it well...
I'm no expert but if it helps I think you pretty much have to cover the
foam with something like drywall plaster anyway when you get close to
the shape you want. I had to cut back the glue lines (I used
construction adhesive and blue foam) along the joints and then fill them
with plaster. Polyester resin or bodyfiller will instantly dissolve foam
so you need to cover and seal the foam when you get to final shape. I
heard enough horror stories about the cans of foam that I stuck to
laminating blue sm sheets of styrofoam. I think some guys have had
reasonable luck with the two part liquid expanding foam but I wasn't
game to try that either.
Ken
Mike Kimball wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I'm no expert but if it helps I think you pretty much have to cover the
foam with something like drywall plaster anyway when you get close to
the shape you want. I had to cut back the glue lines (I used
construction adhesive and blue foam) along the joints and then fill them
with plaster. Polyester resin or bodyfiller will instantly dissolve foam
so you need to cover and seal the foam when you get to final shape. I
heard enough horror stories about the cans of foam that I stuck to
laminating blue sm sheets of styrofoam. I think some guys have had
reasonable luck with the two part liquid expanding foam but I wasn't
game to try that either.
Ken
Mike Kimball wrote:
I have struggled to get foam glued together and pumped about 5 cans of
expanding foam into various areas to try and get a block to start carving
and sanding for my nosebowl. I've made a huge mess, the expanding foam has
huge cavities and hard spots, pieces of foam keep breaking off or coming
unglued and my balding head is getting balder. I've been using a hot glue
gun to glue foam blocks together. It's not working very well. Anybody have
any fiberglass experience that can give me tips on getting the foam in place
reliably so I can start carving. Once I have a good block I'm confident
that I can carve and shape the dang thing. I have thought about using
drywall patch to fill gaps and stuff since it cures very fast and is easy to
sand. There's also stuff like "Ultralight" body filler. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Mike (very frustrated) Kimball
044SR
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
Try using "SM" to get the total thickness glue it together with
"Sticks-A-Foam"construction adhesive. used for bathtub surrounds.
after you got the thickness cut the rough shape, a body file might work.
after you get the rough shape cover with modeling clay. This stuff you can
smooth very nice and get fine shapes. When you are done wax it and you can
apply you're gellcoat and fibreglass over it to make the mold. Wax it well
and use a 'parting spray' or you will be cleaning allot of clay out of
you're mold before you can use it.
Let the mold cure for a couple of days before you use it.
This is where you sand any imperfections out of the mold with wet sand
paper, Put 5-6 coats of wax on the mold or you will never get the part out,
and will be starting over.
Making the part from the mold rather than from you're "sculpture" will give
you a much lighter and stronger part.
Probably never thought you would have to be an 'artist' to build a plane?
Cecil
014
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: "Rebel Builder's List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
"Sticks-A-Foam"construction adhesive. used for bathtub surrounds.
after you got the thickness cut the rough shape, a body file might work.
after you get the rough shape cover with modeling clay. This stuff you can
smooth very nice and get fine shapes. When you are done wax it and you can
apply you're gellcoat and fibreglass over it to make the mold. Wax it well
and use a 'parting spray' or you will be cleaning allot of clay out of
you're mold before you can use it.
Let the mold cure for a couple of days before you use it.
This is where you sand any imperfections out of the mold with wet sand
paper, Put 5-6 coats of wax on the mold or you will never get the part out,
and will be starting over.
Making the part from the mold rather than from you're "sculpture" will give
you a much lighter and stronger part.
Probably never thought you would have to be an 'artist' to build a plane?
Cecil
014
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball" <mkimball@gci.net>
To: "Rebel Builder's List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
hasI have struggled to get foam glued together and pumped about 5 cans of
expanding foam into various areas to try and get a block to start carving
and sanding for my nosebowl. I've made a huge mess, the expanding foam
havehuge cavities and hard spots, pieces of foam keep breaking off or coming
unglued and my balding head is getting balder. I've been using a hot glue
gun to glue foam blocks together. It's not working very well. Anybody
placeany fiberglass experience that can give me tips on getting the foam in
toreliably so I can start carving. Once I have a good block I'm confident
that I can carve and shape the dang thing. I have thought about using
drywall patch to fill gaps and stuff since it cures very fast and is easy
besand. There's also stuff like "Ultralight" body filler. Any help would
greatly appreciated.
Mike (very frustrated) Kimball
044SR
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
Interesting process.... Can you characterize the wax a little. Given your description, the wax (when dry) would need to be kind of hard. Is this like candle wax? Suggested places you can acquire this?
Rick Muller
SR70
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Rick Muller
SR70
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
Try using "SM" to get the total thickness glue it together with
"Sticks-A-Foam"construction adhesive. used for bathtub surrounds.
after you got the thickness cut the rough shape, a body file might work.
after you get the rough shape cover with modeling clay. This stuff you can
smooth very nice and get fine shapes. When you are done wax it and you can
apply you're gellcoat and fibreglass over it to make the mold. Wax it well
and use a 'parting spray' or you will be cleaning allot of clay out of
you're mold before you can use it.
Let the mold cure for a couple of days before you use it.
This is where you sand any imperfections out of the mold with wet sand
paper, Put 5-6 coats of wax on the mold or you will never get the part out,
and will be starting over.
Making the part from the mold rather than from you're "sculpture" will give
you a much lighter and stronger part.
Probably never thought you would have to be an 'artist' to build a plane?
Cecil
014
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball"
To: "Rebel Builder's List"
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
hasI have struggled to get foam glued together and pumped about 5 cans of
expanding foam into various areas to try and get a block to start carving
and sanding for my nosebowl. I've made a huge mess, the expanding foamhavehuge cavities and hard spots, pieces of foam keep breaking off or coming
unglued and my balding head is getting balder. I've been using a hot glue
gun to glue foam blocks together. It's not working very well. Anybodyplaceany fiberglass experience that can give me tips on getting the foam intoreliably so I can start carving. Once I have a good block I'm confident
that I can carve and shape the dang thing. I have thought about using
drywall patch to fill gaps and stuff since it cures very fast and is easybesand. There's also stuff like "Ultralight" body filler. Any help wouldgreatly appreciated.
Mike (very frustrated) Kimball
044SR
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
not a hard wax a good quality car wax will do.
as long as the clay is cool it is fairly hard, it helps to warm it up to
make the part but when it is cool it stiffens.
it is just to hold the shape, the gel and resin go on wet with a paint brush
or little roller. very little pressure.
A/S didn't have any thing in there catalogue that you liked allot faster,
cheaper and not as messy.
You usually only go through all this when the part is specific or not
available.
I used the MC-3B ( only $89.75 hardly worth the trouble to make one. ) for
my Rebel, I thought it was a little wide, if you need custom then its the
only way to go.
Cec
014R
----- Original Message -----
From: <rickhm@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
like candle wax? Suggested places you can acquire this?
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
as long as the clay is cool it is fairly hard, it helps to warm it up to
make the part but when it is cool it stiffens.
it is just to hold the shape, the gel and resin go on wet with a paint brush
or little roller. very little pressure.
A/S didn't have any thing in there catalogue that you liked allot faster,
cheaper and not as messy.
You usually only go through all this when the part is specific or not
available.
I used the MC-3B ( only $89.75 hardly worth the trouble to make one. ) for
my Rebel, I thought it was a little wide, if you need custom then its the
only way to go.
Cec
014R
----- Original Message -----
From: <rickhm@comcast.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
your description, the wax (when dry) would need to be kind of hard. Is thisInteresting process.... Can you characterize the wax a little. Given
like candle wax? Suggested places you can acquire this?
canRick Muller
SR70
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "british thunder" <britishthunder@sympatico.ca>
Try using "SM" to get the total thickness glue it together with
"Sticks-A-Foam"construction adhesive. used for bathtub surrounds.
after you got the thickness cut the rough shape, a body file might work.
after you get the rough shape cover with modeling clay. This stuff you
cansmooth very nice and get fine shapes. When you are done wax it and you
wellapply you're gellcoat and fibreglass over it to make the mold. Wax it
out,and use a 'parting spray' or you will be cleaning allot of clay out of
you're mold before you can use it.
Let the mold cure for a couple of days before you use it.
This is where you sand any imperfections out of the mold with wet sand
paper, Put 5-6 coats of wax on the mold or you will never get the part
giveand will be starting over.
Making the part from the mold rather than from you're "sculpture" will
plane?you a much lighter and stronger part.
Probably never thought you would have to be an 'artist' to build a
carvingCecil
014
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kimball"
To: "Rebel Builder's List"
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 9:26 PM
Subject: Super Rebel Nose Cowl Trouble
I have struggled to get foam glued together and pumped about 5 cans of
expanding foam into various areas to try and get a block to start
cominghasand sanding for my nosebowl. I've made a huge mess, the expanding foamhuge cavities and hard spots, pieces of foam keep breaking off or
glueunglued and my balding head is getting balder. I've been using a hot
confidenthavegun to glue foam blocks together. It's not working very well. Anybodyplaceany fiberglass experience that can give me tips on getting the foam inreliably so I can start carving. Once I have a good block I'm
easythat I can carve and shape the dang thing. I have thought about using
drywall patch to fill gaps and stuff since it cures very fast and is
tobesand. There's also stuff like "Ultralight" body filler. Any help wouldgreatly appreciated.
Mike (very frustrated) Kimball
044SR
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://www.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Subscription services located at:
https://www.dcsol.com/public/code/html-subscribe.htm
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------