dont think you want to drill the carry throughs to allow removal of wish
bone as you call it, best way would be cut floor open and install doublers
and cover plate with screws, that's how i built mine and works great
mike#007
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Dale Kilbey
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 10:33 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Removing Landig Gear for floats
Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R
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Removing Landig Gear for floats
Removing Landig Gear for floats
If you haven't installed your floor yet why not go with nutplates?
At 10:32 AM 4/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
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At 10:32 AM 4/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
DrewHi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R
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Removing Landig Gear for floats
I did access panels in the bottom outer skin.
I like the nutplate idea though. One can get creative with nutplates.
For example rivet the nutplate to a strip of aluminum with countersunk
rivets and then rivet the strip of aluminum to the carrythrough an inch
or three away where access is possible or where the rivet won't
interfere with anything. Or put a twist/bend in the strip of aluminum
and rivet it to the top or bottom of the carrythrough. I would think
that a nutplate is just as good as a regular nut in a case like this
where the bolt is in double shear and not tension.
Ken
Drew Dalgleish wrote:
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I like the nutplate idea though. One can get creative with nutplates.
For example rivet the nutplate to a strip of aluminum with countersunk
rivets and then rivet the strip of aluminum to the carrythrough an inch
or three away where access is possible or where the rivet won't
interfere with anything. Or put a twist/bend in the strip of aluminum
and rivet it to the top or bottom of the carrythrough. I would think
that a nutplate is just as good as a regular nut in a case like this
where the bolt is in double shear and not tension.
Ken
Drew Dalgleish wrote:
If you haven't installed your floor yet why not go with nutplates?
At 10:32 AM 4/8/2005 -0400, you wrote:
Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R
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Removing Landig Gear for floats
Hi all
I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R
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I am thinking of drilling access holes in the rear carrythrough large enough
to get a wrench on the nut that connects the wishbone part of the gear. The
passenger side would be on top and the pilot side from underneath..
Would this compromise the strength of the carrythroughs? I did not cut them
in half.
Dale 220R
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