push pull tubes

[Murray & Carol]

Hi All

I had to put a 1/2" bushing on the bolt at CC 48 to move the push pull tube out far enough in order to miss the bolt on the bottom of the mixer arm retainer. This is the tube which connects CC47 - CC48. My manual shows the CC48 not in the first hole but in the second from the front. The front hole is for the tele-flex cable. This is also different than I have seen before. I think that MAM did this in order to move the vertical tubes further back so as not to interfere with the door opening. The tube did not hit the bolt head until you put some flap on. Did anyone else have to put a 1/2" bushing in where I did?

Happy Building
Murray Cherkas
REBEL505

[Rick DeCiero]

Murray,
I would guess everyone has some questions when it comes to this area. I settled on putting CC-48 into the rearward hole and the flap control cable into the forward hole. My original instructions suggest that the cable goes in the rear and this was confirmed by the factory several years ago. The general concensus now is to put the cable in the forward location.
In my A/C the door doubler FUS-66, the template that was supplied was not accurate. I located the retainer holes as best as I could at the time but eventually found that the whole retainer set up was about 1/2" too close to the CC-48 when all assembled. I moved the retainer assembly as far forward as possible, i.e. the front edge of CC-76 even with the front edge of the retainer assy.
With a 1/4" delrin spacer at the rear pivot hole of CC-76, I finally got a smooth acting CC-76. I did not have to space CC-48 out any further than the instructions suggest, that is, 4 washers. This assumes that the bellcrank bearing has been assembled to CC-48 as shown. That would be with the hub of the bearing oriented closest to CC-76. (figure 47) Another confusing area is which way the CC-48 is assembled as it is not a symetrical part. My belief and installation is that the longer arm goes forward. When all assembled you will see that this allows clearance for the lower connecting control arm when CC-48 is rotated clockwise as you look at the assembled pieces.
I hope this helps.
Good luck, you'll need it
Rick D.
Rebel S/N 404R
Murray & Carol wrote:

Hi All I had to put a 1/2" bushing on the bolt at CC 48 to move the push pull tube out far enough in order to miss the bolt on the bottom of the mixer arm retainer. This is the tube which connects CC47 - CC48. My manual shows the CC48 not in the first hole but in the second from the front. The front hole is for the tele-flex cable. This is also different than I have seen before. I think that MAM did this in order to move the vertical tubes further back so as not to interfere with the door opening. The tube did not hit the bolt head until you put some flap on. Did anyone else have to put a 1/2" bushing in where I did? Happy BuildingMurray CherkasREBEL505

[klehman]

Mine was OK but I had to use a countersunk AN bolt at the bottom of the
mixer arm retainer instead of a hex head bolt.
Ken

Murray & Carol wrote:

Hi All

I had to put a 1/2" bushing on the bolt at CC 48 to move the push pull
tube out far enough in order to miss the bolt on the bottom of the
mixer arm retainer. This is the tube which connects CC47 - CC48. My
manual shows the CC48 not in the first hole but in the second from the
front. The front hole is for the tele-flex cable. This is also
different than I have seen before. I think that MAM did this in order
to move the vertical tubes further back so as not to interfere with
the door opening. The tube did not hit the bolt head until you put
some flap on. Did anyone else have to put a 1/2" bushing in where I
did?

Happy Building
Murray Cherkas
REBEL505

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[Murray & Carol]

Thanks to everyone that replied to my predicament.
I decided to put in a countersunk bolt on the bottom of the retainer. This allowed me to put a shorter sleeve on the bolt holding the push pull tube so that the tube misses the retainers when I pull on flap.

Thanks again

Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505