I would like to cover my gear legs with metal and provide a leading edge
to hide the brake lines going down the leg. Can't think of an easy,
neat way to do it with fabric ...?. Would .016 metal be thick enough
for this? Thanks, again.
Clay
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Gear Legs
Gear Legs
Using fabric also negates any abilty to inspect your gear legs after it is
installed. I found some REALLY lose bolts when I pulled the fabric off
Charles Dixons Rebel, when I was upgrading to the Gord Mohr's "pivots".
Using aluminum allows for removal at any time for full inspection if you
think you tweaked something > IF < you screw it on and not riveted like some
I have seen.
If I get some time later today I will upload a few shots of the aluminum
fairings going onto Georges PFT, that I just rebuilt, so others can see how
I do it as well.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Gear Legs
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installed. I found some REALLY lose bolts when I pulled the fabric off
Charles Dixons Rebel, when I was upgrading to the Gord Mohr's "pivots".
Using aluminum allows for removal at any time for full inspection if you
think you tweaked something > IF < you screw it on and not riveted like some
I have seen.
If I get some time later today I will upload a few shots of the aluminum
fairings going onto Georges PFT, that I just rebuilt, so others can see how
I do it as well.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Gear Legs
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*I would like to cover my gear legs with metal and provide a leading edge
to hide the brake lines going down the leg. Can't think of an easy,
neat way to do it with fabric ...?. Would .016 metal be thick enough
for this? Thanks, again.
Clay
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Gear Legs
To add: I use to use .025 material for the fairings, but as my stock of that
has run out I have been using .020 and it seems tough enough (considering
the whole airplane is .020 skinned).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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has run out I have been using .020 and it seems tough enough (considering
the whole airplane is .020 skinned).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
someUsing fabric also negates any abilty to inspect your gear legs after it is
installed. I found some REALLY lose bolts when I pulled the fabric off
Charles Dixons Rebel, when I was upgrading to the Gord Mohr's "pivots".
Using aluminum allows for removal at any time for full inspection if you
think you tweaked something > IF < you screw it on and not riveted like
howI have seen.
If I get some time later today I will upload a few shots of the aluminum
fairings going onto Georges PFT, that I just rebuilt, so others can see
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*I do it as well.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Gear Legs
I would like to cover my gear legs with metal and provide a leading edge
to hide the brake lines going down the leg. Can't think of an easy,
neat way to do it with fabric ...?. Would .016 metal be thick enough
for this? Thanks, again.
Clay
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Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
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*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Gear Legs
Clay, I built my gear leg covers from lexan.They are bent along the leading
edge which creates a nice airfoil, and joined at the trailing edge on a vee
shaped piece of aluminum. The outside is riveted to this piece while the
underside is screwed to it. The whole assembly is screwed to the gear leg
stiffeners only, on both sides. I did not drill any extra holes in the main
gear legs as recommended. I taped up windows at the attachment bolts prior
to painting which make visual inspection of the gear bolts real easy. I
Just get on my knees and look. This is part of my routine "walk around" for
pre-flight. The Lexan idea came from Bob Patterson at one of our Rebel
bi-monthly meetings-Well worth attending to pick everyone's brains on all
areas. Rebel "652"
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edge which creates a nice airfoil, and joined at the trailing edge on a vee
shaped piece of aluminum. The outside is riveted to this piece while the
underside is screwed to it. The whole assembly is screwed to the gear leg
stiffeners only, on both sides. I did not drill any extra holes in the main
gear legs as recommended. I taped up windows at the attachment bolts prior
to painting which make visual inspection of the gear bolts real easy. I
Just get on my knees and look. This is part of my routine "walk around" for
pre-flight. The Lexan idea came from Bob Patterson at one of our Rebel
bi-monthly meetings-Well worth attending to pick everyone's brains on all
areas. Rebel "652"
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Gear Legs
Posted 7 pics to Rebel Fairing section showing gear leg covers. Note that I
use to make them come up tight under the fuselage, but it is MUCH easier to
keep an eye on/lube your gear bolts/attach skis cables/etc this way. You
could also build an additional fairing to fill in the gap from gear leg
cover to the fuselage outer floor and pick up the same upper screws on the
top channel to mount it to. Channels are formed tapered to fit the 1 1/4"
width at the main leg and 1" at the drag brace. Of course the main leg
channel is 1 1/4" top to bottom and it is only bolted to the lower bolt (of
the upper pair) and the upper bolt of the drag brace brackets attachment for
retention. There are no additional holes drilled in the main gear legs!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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use to make them come up tight under the fuselage, but it is MUCH easier to
keep an eye on/lube your gear bolts/attach skis cables/etc this way. You
could also build an additional fairing to fill in the gap from gear leg
cover to the fuselage outer floor and pick up the same upper screws on the
top channel to mount it to. Channels are formed tapered to fit the 1 1/4"
width at the main leg and 1" at the drag brace. Of course the main leg
channel is 1 1/4" top to bottom and it is only bolted to the lower bolt (of
the upper pair) and the upper bolt of the drag brace brackets attachment for
retention. There are no additional holes drilled in the main gear legs!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
thatTo add: I use to use .025 material for the fairings, but as my stock of
ishas run out I have been using .020 and it seems tough enough (considering
the whole airplane is .020 skinned).
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Gear Legs
Using fabric also negates any abilty to inspect your gear legs after it
edgesomeinstalled. I found some REALLY lose bolts when I pulled the fabric off
Charles Dixons Rebel, when I was upgrading to the Gord Mohr's "pivots".
Using aluminum allows for removal at any time for full inspection if you
think you tweaked something > IF < you screw it on and not riveted likehowI have seen.
If I get some time later today I will upload a few shots of the aluminum
fairings going onto Georges PFT, that I just rebuilt, so others can seeI do it as well.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Smith" <cbsmith@nf.sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Gear Legs
I would like to cover my gear legs with metal and provide a leading
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*to hide the brake lines going down the leg. Can't think of an easy,
neat way to do it with fabric ...?. Would .016 metal be thick enough
for this? Thanks, again.
Clay
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Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
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Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
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gear legs
Wayne,
Please add me to your list too for the next batch of die spring struts.
I'm also probably within 6 months of able to use.
My kit has the cessna or grove style spring legs (from original owner) and
I have always intended to use the standard gear legs instead, to which I'll
then need to fit Wayne's die spring struts. If anyone has the standard
gear parts, either from a Rebel permanently switched to floats, or
otherwise, and would like to sell, please let me know.
Thanks
-Ben /496R
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Please add me to your list too for the next batch of die spring struts.
I'm also probably within 6 months of able to use.
My kit has the cessna or grove style spring legs (from original owner) and
I have always intended to use the standard gear legs instead, to which I'll
then need to fit Wayne's die spring struts. If anyone has the standard
gear parts, either from a Rebel permanently switched to floats, or
otherwise, and would like to sell, please let me know.
Thanks
-Ben /496R
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