I am sort of new to this, please forgive me;
I am about to place the rivets in my 3500 stabilizer. Should I prime where the pro-seal will go under the doublers or pro-seal bare aluminum to bare aluminum?
Also, I am framing the elevator now; any ideas regarding any possible interference with the beefed up fin or should I continue and see what happens....
Thank you all for your patience...
Jim Goodwin
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stabilizer
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
stabilizer
Jim, do one or the other, but not both! Either put it together with Epoxy chromate between the layers (wet so it seals out water and bonds it together), or the MAM suggested proseal route for a little more shear strength (but a messier work day).
As for the Elevator it is absolutely senseless to just proceed and see what happens. Your elevator <WILL> jam against the fin post's spar caps, I can guarantee that right now. Haven't heard the final verdict from Brian Godden on how they are proceeding with future kits. If you haven't even started the elevator <I> wouldn't hesitate to trim the "V" area skin back the 3/8"+/- (on each side) to clean off the prepunched holes and move the inboard two ribs outboard by the 3/8"+/- to give the required clearance and to also keep the fin spar caps as spelled out in the 3500 manual. Doing this will also give you the allowance for that much more rudder travel.
I have to stress that this is simply <my> opinion though and it is up to you to confirm that this is okay with MAM, or trust your own instinct and proceed on your own.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
As for the Elevator it is absolutely senseless to just proceed and see what happens. Your elevator <WILL> jam against the fin post's spar caps, I can guarantee that right now. Haven't heard the final verdict from Brian Godden on how they are proceeding with future kits. If you haven't even started the elevator <I> wouldn't hesitate to trim the "V" area skin back the 3/8"+/- (on each side) to clean off the prepunched holes and move the inboard two ribs outboard by the 3/8"+/- to give the required clearance and to also keep the fin spar caps as spelled out in the 3500 manual. Doing this will also give you the allowance for that much more rudder travel.
I have to stress that this is simply <my> opinion though and it is up to you to confirm that this is okay with MAM, or trust your own instinct and proceed on your own.
Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: goody (goody@sover.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 8:45 PM
Subject: stabilizer
I am sort of new to this, please forgive me;
I am about to place the rivets in my 3500 stabilizer. Should I prime where the pro-seal will go under the doublers or pro-seal bare aluminum to bare aluminum?
Also, I am framing the elevator now; any ideas regarding any possible interference with the beefed up fin or should I continue and see what happens....
Thank you all for your patience...
Jim Goodwin
-
Murray & Carol
stabilizer
Jim
At Arlington last year I discussed using zinc chromate or I had heard of also using SIKAFLEX 1A between mating surfaces. I was particularly concerned as one day I will be on floats in salt water.MAM's advice was to use Sikaflex 1A on all the tail surface joints.Whether this is the way to go or not is a matter of opinion. I followed through with this advice on my tail cone. My tail feathers were alreaady built. The tail did feel rock solid after it was complete.When using pro-seal or any thick in consistency sealant be sure to use lots of cleco's to pull the skins together. When riveting, pull the rivets slow to also allow the skins to be pulled together tight.I pulled some with the hand riveter and some I did keeping the pressure down on the compressor in order to not pull the rivet to fast. A good idea also to make sure the skins are warm so as not to thicken the sealant on contact.
Good Luck
Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
At Arlington last year I discussed using zinc chromate or I had heard of also using SIKAFLEX 1A between mating surfaces. I was particularly concerned as one day I will be on floats in salt water.MAM's advice was to use Sikaflex 1A on all the tail surface joints.Whether this is the way to go or not is a matter of opinion. I followed through with this advice on my tail cone. My tail feathers were alreaady built. The tail did feel rock solid after it was complete.When using pro-seal or any thick in consistency sealant be sure to use lots of cleco's to pull the skins together. When riveting, pull the rivets slow to also allow the skins to be pulled together tight.I pulled some with the hand riveter and some I did keeping the pressure down on the compressor in order to not pull the rivet to fast. A good idea also to make sure the skins are warm so as not to thicken the sealant on contact.
Good Luck
Murray Cherkas
REBEL 505
