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DETALHES TANQUE DE COMBUST

Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Jose Luiz Gozzi

DETALHES TANQUE DE COMBUST

Post by Jose Luiz Gozzi » Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:59 pm

---------- Digest Message #1 ----------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:23:06 -0400
From: ricker@dbis.ns.ca
To: murphy-rebel
Subject: Wet Tank Stringer Seal Angle Fittings

Hi Folks

A few questions about the wet wing of our Elite, Rebel builders, pls stay
with
us, I believe you can help since the wing is supposed to be almost
identical.
We are fabricating the angle fittings which are used to help make the
Pro-Seal
seals around the stringers & spar in the wet tank and have a question or
two
about their sizing etc.

1. The fitting type which is used at the inner bulkhead/root rib of the
tank at
the stringer locations, is it supposed to fit under the stringer (raise up
the
stringer)? I have my doubts because this would raise the stringer by
.062" from
the tank skin leaving a big gap and probably a significant dip in the tank
skin
when the rivets are pulled. Should this be cut away under the stringer?

2. Same sort of question at the outboard tank bulkhead/rib, when you cut
away
the angle fitting for the "J" of the stringer, here do you cut away the
base so
the stringer stays in contact with the tank skin?

3. These angle pieces at the stringers seem oversize. They overlap the
flange
of the ribs they are mounted to and interfere with the ridges embossed in
the
bulkhead/ribs. The hole positions given also don't seem to be right, is
there a
good reason for this or is this another case where the manual hints at the
idea
but you are supposed to find your own solution? If it is correct I wish
MAM
would say something in the manual about the reason........

4. As the angle pieces are defined in the manual, the ones which go in the
front
upper & lower corners of the bulkhead/ribs leave significant gap to the
tank
skin where they sit on the spar flanges, about the thickness of the spar,
again
is there a reason or is it a case of make it fit yourself.

Thanks in advance,

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583





---------- Digest Message #2 ----------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:53:45 -0900
From: mkimball@gci.net
To: murphy-rebel
Subject: RE: Wet Tank Stringer Seal Angle Fittings

My response would be that the little picture in the manual with the
dimensions of the gap seals around the stringers are barely even starting
points. My gap seals were all sorts of different sizes and shapes.
Whatever it took to cover the hole where the stringers pass the ribs. My
rivet locations for the gap seals were wherever it seemed to make the most
sense. I tried to make the flange on the gap seal meet the skin as best
as
possible but I'm not really certain what, if any, purpose the flange
served.
The whole idea is to seal the hole in the cutout of the rib. You also
have
to dodge the rivets and whatever else gets in the way on the bottom skin
on
the outboard rib of the tank. Lots of trial and error fitting, trimming,
and refitting until you close the gap as best you can. Then, don't spare
the proseal. I have a pretty large dam around each of these areas. Goop
up
where the top skin will meet, get that skin on, rivet, then turn the wing
upside down so any flow of the proseal won't flow away from what you are
trying to seal. Then you still have another chance to smear more goop
through the access plates. This is all from my Super Rebel. Probably
applies to the Elite.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
David Ricker
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 5:23 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Wet Tank Stringer Seal Angle Fittings
---------- Digest Message #3 ----------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:25:57 -0500
From: bob.patterson@canrem.com
To: murphy-rebel
Subject: Re: Wet Tank Stringer Seal Angle Fittings


Hi Dave !

You're right ! The object is to keep the stringers tight against
the tank skin. The fittings are just to reduce the size of the hole,
and any trimming needed is fine .... (and the lip can go inside
the rib flange, if necessary, or just cut away the base of the fitting)

Some builders have placed these fittings on <both> sides of
the ribs, filling the middle with ProSeal. (Fasten one side,
squeeze in ProSeal, then fasten other side - a big, sticky reverse
Oreo cookie !)

One caution - don't make the J openings fit too tightly -
you want some ProSeal to ooze out all around & bond to the stringer
and the fitting.

....bobp

----------------------------------orig.-----------------------------------
-
At 10:23 PM 2/24/02 -0400, you wrote:
Hi Folks

A few questions about the wet wing of our Elite, Rebel builders, pls stay
with
us, I believe you can help since the wing is supposed to be almost
identical.
We are fabricating the angle fittings which are used to help make the
Pro-Seal
seals around the stringers & spar in the wet tank and have a question or
two
about their sizing etc.

1. The fitting type which is used at the inner bulkhead/root rib of the
tank at
the stringer locations, is it supposed to fit under the stringer (raise
up the
stringer)? I have my doubts because this would raise the stringer by
.062"
from
the tank skin leaving a big gap and probably a significant dip in the
tank skin
when the rivets are pulled. Should this be cut away under the stringer?

2. Same sort of question at the outboard tank bulkhead/rib, when you cut
away
the angle fitting for the "J" of the stringer, here do you cut away the
base so
the stringer stays in contact with the tank skin?

3. These angle pieces at the stringers seem oversize. They overlap the
flange
of the ribs they are mounted to and interfere with the ridges embossed in
the
bulkhead/ribs. The hole positions given also don't seem to be right, is
there a
good reason for this or is this another case where the manual hints at
the idea
but you are supposed to find your own solution? If it is correct I wish
MAM
would say something in the manual about the reason........

4. As the angle pieces are defined in the manual, the ones which go in
the
front
upper & lower corners of the bulkhead/ribs leave significant gap to the
tank
skin where they sit on the spar flanges, about the thickness of the spar,
again
is there a reason or is it a case of make it fit yourself.

Thanks in advance,

Dave R.
Francine D.
Elite 583
---------- Digest Message #9 ----------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 22:24:51 +1300
From: g.b.weck@xtra.co.nz
To: murphy-rebel
Subject: ZK-WEC 647R fly's

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------25945C68F36
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for all the good wishes,
after a 40 minutes test fly on friday morning it was of to Sportavex
2002 at Matamata NZ SAA national flyin and guess what...we were judged
champion best all metal aircraft. And we were over the moon. Always
having been very proud of our aircraft we were still staggered to pick
up this award. Especially sweet as RV aircraft had won this for the
previous 7 years and were out there in force again. We will keep the
list informed on the test flying results as we work through the next 25
hours of flight. Attached are a couple of photos just to prove it flies
like a dream.
Regards
Graeme & Britta 647 R

--------------25945C68F36
Content-Type: image/jpeg; name="wec 1st flght.jpg"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="wec 1st flght.jpg"
---------- Digest Message #10 ----------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:30:33 -0500
From: ob.johnson@sympatico.ca
To: murphy-rebel
Subject: Re: ZK-WEC 647R fly's

It is a beautiful looking aircraft, and I am sure it flies as good as it
looks. If you are interested, Murphy aircraft will send you a pair of real
nice "REBEL" decals for the fin if you want to promote the make of
aircraft.
I have them on my Rebel "652" and it adds a nice touch. Again, a great
looking machine.-Bob J.



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