Converted from Wildcat! database. (read only)
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Wayne G. O'Shea
Post
by Wayne G. O'Shea » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm
Louis, I have attached a picture of the fuselage "hull" I completed yesterday. For any that are interested total construction time was 197 hours and 15 minutes. It has the Spring Gear option "plates" installed, engine mount FUS85/86's installed, the firewall moved back 3" (customer request, not mine), "float fix" bulletin c/w, .032 doors sills, .040 Fus 26's, .032 Fus-25's, Fus-30 doubler and tail post service bulletin all done, along with numerous other mods, all seam edges rolled over for a nice fit, etc. It was completely assembled (WET) with EP-420 Stits (polyfiber) epoxy primer between ALL seams and ALL the rivets were dipped prior to insertion and pulling. As you can see in the picture there is no reason that this aircraft couldn't be polished and left in bare aluminum. I went through 2 quarts of Acetone while building this fuselage to clean up all the splashed and excess EP420, immediately after each riveting session. If you wanted to polish, of course you wouldn't fill the rivet mandrel holes with EP420 like Howard did prior to paint!
Regards,
Wayne G.O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis & Kathy Young (
louis@c-gate.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: Solid Rivets
Wayne, for the benefit if the not-ready-for -prime time- builders.... Is EP420 a liquid or a primer or what ? Please detail that process.... ( I have wondered what "spot putty-ing" 18k worth of rivets would be like....! Yowww my aching finger ! )
Also, Darryl told me at S-n-Fun that surfaces should be assembled wet and rivets placed and pulled wet..... Does that negate the ability to polish the airplane ? I assumed that the corrosion inhibiters etched the skins in a permanent way... I would think a few well placed painted stripes and a polish, instead of a all-over paint, would be worth the weight of a radio or two .... These are really not small planes !
Comments ?? Suggestions ?
Louis Young
www.justplanevideos.com
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:29 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets
Bruce, I believe it only takes about 3 solid rivets to be as strong in shear as 5 of the Avex/Avdel 1/8" pull rivets, so no reason you couldn't use solids as they would be stronger. Aircraft would also be a bit lighter using solids, as you won't have all those steel mandrels riding along with you. The extra work would be IMMENSE though, to build it with solid rivets, let alone adding to it your wanting to dimple every rivet hole. There are about 18,000+ rivets in the Rebel. Rivet spacing, on just about everything, is 15/16" (and you won't have the ability to increase this spacing due to prepunched pilot holes). I know it's hard to change you solid rivet builders over to these "POP" rivets, but once you build something with them you will have a hard time going back to building RV's!!!! One man operation and smoother skins when the rivets are pulled (vs impacted) into place, make these rivets a dream to work with. If you want the solid rivet look, instead of having that extra person of yours buck rivets, give him a cup of EP420 and a rivet mandrel and get him to dip and fill all the mandrel holes. This is a great thing to do with those drop by visitors also. That's what Howard did with his uninvited guests! He had them fill all his mandrel holes, then buffed them all off smooth with scotchbrite before painting. Most people think his Rebel is solid riveted because of this.
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: LisaFly99@aol.com (
LisaFly99@aol.com)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets
In a message dated 4/22/01 9:04:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
flyinb@kfalls.net (
flyinb@kfalls.net) writes:
BRUCE
Check with MAM tech department. I remember asking that question to someone in
tech back in 97, might have been Frances. And they said yes it could be done
with solid rivets. It was made with pulled rivets so Joe Builder wouldn't
need riveting skills.
Making it easier for more people to build.
Phil&Lisa Smith #460 N414D
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Attachments
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Louis & Kathy Young
Post
by Louis & Kathy Young » Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:55 pm
I understand now.... I assumed that it was an etching type fluid, not a paint process..... Thanks for the great info you provide.... Louis
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 1:29 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Corrosion Proof / Polished A/C
Louis, I have attached a picture of the fuselage "hull" I completed yesterday. For any that are interested total construction time was 197 hours and 15 minutes. It has the Spring Gear option "plates" installed, engine mount FUS85/86's installed, the firewall moved back 3" (customer request, not mine), "float fix" bulletin c/w, .032 doors sills, .040 Fus 26's, .032 Fus-25's, Fus-30 doubler and tail post service bulletin all done, along with numerous other mods, all seam edges rolled over for a nice fit, etc. It was completely assembled (WET) with EP-420 Stits (polyfiber) epoxy primer between ALL seams and ALL the rivets were dipped prior to insertion and pulling. As you can see in the picture there is no reason that this aircraft couldn't be polished and left in bare aluminum. I went through 2 quarts of Acetone while building this fuselage to clean up all the splashed and excess EP420, immediately after each riveting session. If you wanted to polish, of course you wouldn't fill the rivet mandrel holes with EP420 like Howard did prior to paint!
Regards,
Wayne G.O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Louis & Kathy Young (
louis@c-gate.net)
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com (
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: Solid Rivets
Wayne, for the benefit if the not-ready-for -prime time- builders.... Is EP420 a liquid or a primer or what ? Please detail that process.... ( I have wondered what "spot putty-ing" 18k worth of rivets would be like....! Yowww my aching finger ! )
Also, Darryl told me at S-n-Fun that surfaces should be assembled wet and rivets placed and pulled wet..... Does that negate the ability to polish the airplane ? I assumed that the corrosion inhibiters etched the skins in a permanent way... I would think a few well placed painted stripes and a polish, instead of a all-over paint, would be worth the weight of a radio or two .... These are really not small planes !
Comments ?? Suggestions ?
Louis Young
www.justplanevideos.com
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]
On Behalf Of Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:29 AM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Solid Rivets
Bruce, I believe it only takes about 3 solid rivets to be as strong in shear as 5 of the Avex/Avdel 1/8" pull rivets, so no reason you couldn't use solids as they would be stronger. Aircraft would also be a bit lighter using solids, as you won't have all those steel mandrels riding along with you. The extra work would be IMMENSE though, to build it with solid rivets, let alone adding to it your wanting to dimple every rivet hole. There are about 18,000+ rivets in the Rebel. Rivet spacing, on just about everything, is 15/16" (and you won't have the ability to increase this spacing due to prepunched pilot holes). I know it's hard to change you solid rivet builders over to these "POP" rivets, but once you build something with them you will have a hard time going back to building RV's!!!! One man operation and smoother skins when the rivets are pulled (vs impacted) into place, make these rivets a dream to work with. If you want the solid rivet look, instead of having that extra person of yours buck rivets, give him a cup of EP420 and a rivet mandrel and get him to dip and fill all the mandrel holes. This is a great thing to do with those drop by visitors also. That's what Howard did with his uninvited guests! He had them fill all his mandrel holes, then buffed them all off smooth with scotchbrite before painting. Most people think his Rebel is solid riveted because of this.
Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca