[rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders] And the saga continue

WALTER KLATT · Post by **WALTER KLATT** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:54 pm

If yours is not stable in pitch, you may need to adjust your elevator trim slightly. With mine it is completely hands free, unless fuel/pax really unbalanced, or non cruise flap setting. Can even fly feet off the rudder, with the right power setting. My flap setting though, does change the roll stability, I assume because of the prop wash, with full flaperons instead of separate ailerons on the Rebel.

I actually like the near neutral stability in roll and pitch. I can take my hands off the stick, to get a map, or sunglasses, and it will stay in whatever attitude I had it. Also nice in steeper turns with little stick pressure.

The only time I really have to pay attention to stability and rudder use, is when I haul the canoe with Wayne's canoe loader. I am getting used to that now, but it can be a little unnerving in turbulence.

I also really like not having to adjust my elevator trim every time I change flap or throttle setting like in some airplanes.

I guess all airplanes are a little different, and there are compromises, but sometimes it is just preference or what you are used to.

Walter

----- Original Message -----
From: jessejenks@hotmail.com <jessejenks@hotmail.com>
Date: Saturday, August 27, 2011 7:53 am
Subject: [rebel-builders] Re: [rebel-builders] And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com

Just my opinion Bob. Maybe I've gotten too used to the handling
characteristics of larger airplanes, but I think it could
benefit from a bit more roll stability, and pitch as well; I
would rate roll stability as
Just on the positive side of neutral, and pitch, while positive
over a long period (I guess that would be dynamic) is close to
neutral short term (static?). I can fly hands off too, but I
have to hold the stick between my knees:)
I have experimented with initiating a turning descent and
letting it loose...it didn't show any signs of self correcting
before my comfort level forced me to take over. The good thing
is it doesn't pick up speed going down hill.
Overall, I really like it, but every airplane is a compromise of
some sort.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bobp@prosumers.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] And the saga continues...Rebel
#56 Build
Date: Fri, Aug 26, 2011 9:55 am

Good grief Jesse !

The old "More MUST be
better" theory !!!

The Rebel is ALREADY 'THE' most stable
aircraft I've ever flown
- admittedly only 54 years of flying, so far ....

We regularly fly across the continent, going 2
hours or more
without touching the stick !! Anyone who thinks the Rebel is
hard to fly should just buy an Ercoupe
.... ;-)
(Tricycle with interconnected rudder & ailerons - no rudder
pedals ...
one big brake pedal ... you just steer it ! Flying -
for the car driver !)

Please don't go re-designing the aircraft on a
'feeling' !!
I've seen nice kits ruined by somebody's "improvements" ...

.... and don't get me started on autopilots
!! ;-) :-)

......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson

De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !

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On Friday 26 August 2011 09:58:36 jessejenks@hotmail.com wrote:
Other than the torque tube horn flexing...I would bet the
Rebel flies
better with a bit more dihedral. Might make the yaw/roll coupling
stronger...make it easier to steer with your feet in cruise,
and the
rudder( which is very effective) more useful at slow approach
speeds as
the aileron become less positive...my opinionion only.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

----- Reply message
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga
continues...Rebel #56 Build
Date: Thu, Aug 25, 2011 10:22 pm

Roland... as Ken points out.. before you do this process again
get that
fuselage solid in place. I do all of mine with the fuselage
sitting on the
table (90 * to the table) with the fus weighted down and bolts
into the
table thru the front gear attach points. Not something
everyone can do in
the confines of their shop, but as Ken points out you can
block it outside
as well. I then use basement jack posts, that I welded the
bottom plate to
and screwed to a 3' x 3' piece of 3/4" plywood. You then use
the jack
screws, on the jack posts, to raise/lower the wings to get the
dihedral> exact and clamp/drill the struts.
As for strut material and new ends, as many have pointed out
you can
probably machine a new end and keep the existing struts
by transfering the
holes and adjusting the "fork" length accordingly to get what
you need.
Failing that, you can get the strut material from Clair Sceli
at Clamar
Floats as when it became too much of an issue for me to get
Clair a dozen
struts at a time from MAM he had his own die made to extrude
the profile.
He's just up the road from you...

Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga
continues...Rebel #56 Build

I used the same fuselage supports that I use for removing and
servicing> >
the gear. Concrete blocks and wood or jacks under the cage.
Actually I
like to put a 3 foot long wooden 2x3 on each side of the fuselage
stretching between the cage and the bulkhead that the rear
drag strut
attaches to. Then I jack on each of those with the jacks an
inch or two
behind the cage. Tail sits on something as well. As noted,
the fuselage
will move a lot if you just leave it sitting on the wheels.

IMO one should not expect better than 0.2 degree repeatable
accuracy out
of any electronic level that I've ever seen but that is good
enough. I
would only use one level though. You've heard the saying
that a man with
two watches never knows what time it is... If there is any doubt,
reverse the level (end for end) and see if the readings
agree. Exacting
carpenters like to do that to confirm a level's accuracy.
Frankly though
I don't think the dihedral is at all critical other than the
control> > horn attachments at the wing root will flex more if
the dihedral is
excessive. Left and right roughly matching makes it a touch
easier to
fly wings level I suppose ;)

Ken

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