[rebel-builders] Cable tensions - Was:control cable turnbuck

[Jason Beall]

Guys,

Thanks for all your comments. I think I am over analyizing things sometimes!

For what it's worth, I found a post on the Cessna 170 associations website saying the rudder cables on the 170 shoulnd't really be tensioned, just remove the slack. Makes sense to me. If the cables were in too much tension they might start to 'saw' through the fairleads where there are slight angle changes.

My two cents, -Jason


--- On Sun, 1/16/11, Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] Cable tensions - Was:control cable turnbuckles
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Sunday, January 16, 2011, 4:14 PM
Thanks all.

One other question: I can't find any reference to cable
tensions in the builders manual!?

Thanks, -Jason

--- On Sat, 1/15/11, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
wrote:

From: Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control cable

turnbuckles

To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Saturday, January 15, 2011, 6:36 PM
A couple suggestions:

First, this job is easier with two people. Start by

setting

the pedals or
stick, as the case may be, where you want at the "at

rest"

or mid-travel.
With the pedals, you generally want the main pedal

tube

vertical, or perhaps
leaning aft just a smidge. Use some dowels and tubing
slipped into the
horizontal tubes to keep all pedals lined up together.

Find

a way to fix
them in position, or have one guy keep them square to

the

floor.

Mount the forward turnbuckle clevis in place, and set

the

turnbuckle to
about 3-4 threads showing on each end. The AC-43 std.

is

max. 3 threads
exposed, so that will give you some room to tighten

them up

a smidge. Place
the thimble in the rear end of the turnbuckle. Pull

the

cable through the
Nicopress and around the thimble and back through the
Nicopress until it's
nice and snug, and pinch the cable at the rear, narrow

end

of the thimble.
Use a Sharpie to mark the cable at the top of the

thimble,

i.e., forward
center of the turn around the thimble.

Then you can take the turnbuckle off the forward end

and do

the crimping in
a more comfortable position, back by the seat position

for

example, just by
realigning the mark to the top of the thimble. One guy

will

hold the cable
tight _near_ the narrow end of the thimble, while the

other

one handles the
crimp tool. The holder can help sight for

perpendicularity

and fore and aft
position. Of course, you crimp the Nicpropress three

times,

first in the
middle, then on the thimble side, then on the cable

side.

Highly recommended to get some extra thimbles and

cable and

practice a
couple of those first. Of course, do the rudder ends

first,

and lock the
rudder in a centered position. (See http://n254mr.com/node/1375) And be
prepared to do one or more of these over, and...

That's

airplane building.

I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to

set

the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391