One turnbuckle in each control system run will give the much needed
adjustment your are going to need. Although two might give more adjustment
it is also another point to have fail. Use the long ones instead of the
short ones, if you feel you need a lot of adjustment.
I have a tool made for the job of setting the Cable Thimbles (AN100)(Spruce
Pg 136). The tool clamps the thimble in 3 places, with the cable wrapped
around the thimble it holds (wedges) the cable to it on the two flats then
pushes he cable snug at the radius area to hold the cable snug while you
crimp the NICO Sleeve MS51844. Sorry, no I do not have a source on the
tool.
Dick Wampach SR-108 N331RW
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Beall
Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 12:45 PM
To: new list server
Subject: [rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
Guys,
Quick questions:
1)Do you think it's worth having at least two turnbuckles in each control
system run to give more flexibility in adjusting tension?
and...
2)Any tips/tricks on getting the cables tight prior to installing the last
turnbuckle/nicropress sleave combination? There is not much 'throw' or
'adjustment' on the turnbuckles, so I am worried I won't be able to get
things tight.
Thanks, -Jason
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[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
-
Ron Shannon
[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
A couple suggestions:
First, this job is easier with two people. Start by setting the pedals or
stick, as the case may be, where you want at the "at rest" or mid-travel.
With the pedals, you generally want the main pedal tube vertical, or perhaps
leaning aft just a smidge. Use some dowels and tubing slipped into the
horizontal tubes to keep all pedals lined up together. Find a way to fix
them in position, or have one guy keep them square to the floor.
Mount the forward turnbuckle clevis in place, and set the turnbuckle to
about 3-4 threads showing on each end. The AC-43 std. is max. 3 threads
exposed, so that will give you some room to tighten them up a smidge. Place
the thimble in the rear end of the turnbuckle. Pull the cable through the
Nicopress and around the thimble and back through the Nicopress until it's
nice and snug, and pinch the cable at the rear, narrow end of the thimble.
Use a Sharpie to mark the cable at the top of the thimble, i.e., forward
center of the turn around the thimble.
Then you can take the turnbuckle off the forward end and do the crimping in
a more comfortable position, back by the seat position for example, just by
realigning the mark to the top of the thimble. One guy will hold the cable
tight _near_ the narrow end of the thimble, while the other one handles the
crimp tool. The holder can help sight for perpendicularity and fore and aft
position. Of course, you crimp the Nicpropress three times, first in the
middle, then on the thimble side, then on the cable side.
Highly recommended to get some extra thimbles and cable and practice a
couple of those first. Of course, do the rudder ends first, and lock the
rudder in a centered position. (See http://n254mr.com/node/1375) And be
prepared to do one or more of these over, and... That's airplane building.
I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391 No matter how
careful you are with making the cables, the sides are probably going to end
up a little different length. By adjusting the length of the tangs on the
forward ends of the springs, I was able to balance the tension from side to
side more precisely.
I hope that's helpful. If it's not clear, give me a call. (360-681-7160) The
"aha" moment for me was when I was taught to mark the top of the cable at
the middle of the turn around the thimble, so you can take the forward
turnbuckle clevis pin out, and pull the whole shebang back so the actual
press crimping could be done back at the seats with the rear section of
cable loose. A "duh" for most people perhaps, but them thar "duh's" are what
I never figure out on my own, so....
Ron
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 12:45 PM, Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com>wrote:
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First, this job is easier with two people. Start by setting the pedals or
stick, as the case may be, where you want at the "at rest" or mid-travel.
With the pedals, you generally want the main pedal tube vertical, or perhaps
leaning aft just a smidge. Use some dowels and tubing slipped into the
horizontal tubes to keep all pedals lined up together. Find a way to fix
them in position, or have one guy keep them square to the floor.
Mount the forward turnbuckle clevis in place, and set the turnbuckle to
about 3-4 threads showing on each end. The AC-43 std. is max. 3 threads
exposed, so that will give you some room to tighten them up a smidge. Place
the thimble in the rear end of the turnbuckle. Pull the cable through the
Nicopress and around the thimble and back through the Nicopress until it's
nice and snug, and pinch the cable at the rear, narrow end of the thimble.
Use a Sharpie to mark the cable at the top of the thimble, i.e., forward
center of the turn around the thimble.
Then you can take the turnbuckle off the forward end and do the crimping in
a more comfortable position, back by the seat position for example, just by
realigning the mark to the top of the thimble. One guy will hold the cable
tight _near_ the narrow end of the thimble, while the other one handles the
crimp tool. The holder can help sight for perpendicularity and fore and aft
position. Of course, you crimp the Nicpropress three times, first in the
middle, then on the thimble side, then on the cable side.
Highly recommended to get some extra thimbles and cable and practice a
couple of those first. Of course, do the rudder ends first, and lock the
rudder in a centered position. (See http://n254mr.com/node/1375) And be
prepared to do one or more of these over, and... That's airplane building.
I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391 No matter how
careful you are with making the cables, the sides are probably going to end
up a little different length. By adjusting the length of the tangs on the
forward ends of the springs, I was able to balance the tension from side to
side more precisely.
I hope that's helpful. If it's not clear, give me a call. (360-681-7160) The
"aha" moment for me was when I was taught to mark the top of the cable at
the middle of the turn around the thimble, so you can take the forward
turnbuckle clevis pin out, and pull the whole shebang back so the actual
press crimping could be done back at the seats with the rear section of
cable loose. A "duh" for most people perhaps, but them thar "duh's" are what
I never figure out on my own, so....
Ron
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 12:45 PM, Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com>wrote:
Guys,
Quick questions:
1)Do you think it's worth having at least two turnbuckles in each control
system run to give more flexibility in adjusting tension?
and...
2)Any tips/tricks on getting the cables tight prior to installing the last
turnbuckle/nicropress sleave combination? There is not much 'throw' or
'adjustment' on the turnbuckles, so I am worried I won't be able to get
things tight.
Thanks, -Jason
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Ron Shannon
[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
And... of course, I agree with Dick, you definitely don't want two
turnbuckles in each cable. That introduces several more Nicopress swages --
which are the most likely weak link in this assembly -- and more weight on
the cable, and the plane as a whole, of course. In addition, there's really
no good place -- in the Rebel at least -- to put a second turnbuckle. You
don't want it hidden behind a baggage wall, where you can't check the
swages, safety wire, etc., frequently, and obviously you don't want it
hanging out in the breeze back by the rudder horn where it will corrode and
bang around, etc.
If you set it up properly, one turnbuckle gives you all the adjustment you
need. Bear in mind, if you start with three threads exposed on each end of
the buckle, you've got 6 threads worth of tightening distance, which is
actually quite a bit.
A couple more photos that may be useful perhaps are at
http://n254mr.com/node/1379 You can see I put a little heat shrink over the
rough end of the cut cables to give a nice look and protect the fingers a
bit. (Don't forget to put it on the cable before crimping... don't ask why
I'm reminding about this.) If you choose to do that, leave a little space
between the thimble and heat shrink so you can still inspect the cable at
that critical position (dissimilar metals, etc.) and leave the both ends of
the heat shrink open (no silicone sealant) to allow drainage.
Ron
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 6:36 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
turnbuckles in each cable. That introduces several more Nicopress swages --
which are the most likely weak link in this assembly -- and more weight on
the cable, and the plane as a whole, of course. In addition, there's really
no good place -- in the Rebel at least -- to put a second turnbuckle. You
don't want it hidden behind a baggage wall, where you can't check the
swages, safety wire, etc., frequently, and obviously you don't want it
hanging out in the breeze back by the rudder horn where it will corrode and
bang around, etc.
If you set it up properly, one turnbuckle gives you all the adjustment you
need. Bear in mind, if you start with three threads exposed on each end of
the buckle, you've got 6 threads worth of tightening distance, which is
actually quite a bit.
A couple more photos that may be useful perhaps are at
http://n254mr.com/node/1379 You can see I put a little heat shrink over the
rough end of the cut cables to give a nice look and protect the fingers a
bit. (Don't forget to put it on the cable before crimping... don't ask why
I'm reminding about this.) If you choose to do that, leave a little space
between the thimble and heat shrink so you can still inspect the cable at
that critical position (dissimilar metals, etc.) and leave the both ends of
the heat shrink open (no silicone sealant) to allow drainage.
Ron
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 6:36 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
A couple suggestions:
First, this job is easier with two people. Start by setting the pedals or
stick, as the case may be, where you want at the "at rest" or mid-travel.
With the pedals, you generally want the main pedal tube vertical, or perhaps
leaning aft just a smidge. Use some dowels and tubing slipped into the
horizontal tubes to keep all pedals lined up together. Find a way to fix
them in position, or have one guy keep them square to the floor.
Mount the forward turnbuckle clevis in place, and set the turnbuckle to
about 3-4 threads showing on each end. The AC-43 std. is max. 3 threads
exposed, so that will give you some room to tighten them up a smidge. Place
the thimble in the rear end of the turnbuckle. Pull the cable through the
Nicopress and around the thimble and back through the Nicopress until it's
nice and snug, and pinch the cable at the rear, narrow end of the thimble.
Use a Sharpie to mark the cable at the top of the thimble, i.e., forward
center of the turn around the thimble.
Then you can take the turnbuckle off the forward end and do the crimping in
a more comfortable position, back by the seat position for example, just by
realigning the mark to the top of the thimble. One guy will hold the cable
tight _near_ the narrow end of the thimble, while the other one handles the
crimp tool. The holder can help sight for perpendicularity and fore and aft
position. Of course, you crimp the Nicpropress three times, first in the
middle, then on the thimble side, then on the cable side.
Highly recommended to get some extra thimbles and cable and practice a
couple of those first. Of course, do the rudder ends first, and lock the
rudder in a centered position. (See http://n254mr.com/node/1375) And be
prepared to do one or more of these over, and... That's airplane building.
I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391 No matter how
careful you are with making the cables, the sides are probably going to end
up a little different length. By adjusting the length of the tangs on the
forward ends of the springs, I was able to balance the tension from side to
side more precisely.
I hope that's helpful. If it's not clear, give me a call. (360-681-7160)
The "aha" moment for me was when I was taught to mark the top of the cable
at the middle of the turn around the thimble, so you can take the forward
turnbuckle clevis pin out, and pull the whole shebang back so the actual
press crimping could be done back at the seats with the rear section of
cable loose. A "duh" for most people perhaps, but them thar "duh's" are what
I never figure out on my own, so....
Ron
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 12:45 PM, Jason Beall <super_rebel131@yahoo.com>wrote:
Guys,
Quick questions:
1)Do you think it's worth having at least two turnbuckles in each control
system run to give more flexibility in adjusting tension?
and...
2)Any tips/tricks on getting the cables tight prior to installing the last
turnbuckle/nicropress sleave combination? There is not much 'throw' or
'adjustment' on the turnbuckles, so I am worried I won't be able to get
things tight.
Thanks, -Jason
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Joel Jacobs
[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
Hi Ron,
This post came at a good time as I am just about to attach my rudder
springs. I had not thought of using a tang to attach the spring to
and provide for some adjustment - that is a great idea.
One thing I had been pondering though is this. One set of pedals is
mounted 1.5" or so in front of the other so if the springs are both
connected at the same point on the engine mounts then the angle of the
springs relative to the pedals will be different and although you can
balance them with the tang length at the neutral position I would
expect the spring force to become un-balanced at any other position.
I was thinking of mounting the springs at different points on the
engine mount bracket so that they are at the same angle to the pedals.
Maybe I'm over thinking this. Have you ever noticed your right
pedal being any 'stiffer' than the left?
Joel
R416
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
[quote]
I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391
This post came at a good time as I am just about to attach my rudder
springs. I had not thought of using a tang to attach the spring to
and provide for some adjustment - that is a great idea.
One thing I had been pondering though is this. One set of pedals is
mounted 1.5" or so in front of the other so if the springs are both
connected at the same point on the engine mounts then the angle of the
springs relative to the pedals will be different and although you can
balance them with the tang length at the neutral position I would
expect the spring force to become un-balanced at any other position.
I was thinking of mounting the springs at different points on the
engine mount bracket so that they are at the same angle to the pedals.
Maybe I'm over thinking this. Have you ever noticed your right
pedal being any 'stiffer' than the left?
Joel
R416
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Ron Shannon <rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
[quote]
I set my springs last, and used little steel tangs to set the tension
exactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391
-
Jason Beall
[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
Hi Ron,
I just finished doing just that on my Super Rebel last week. I attached the springs with an offset equivalent to the distance between the rudder pedal torque tubes.
Seem the way to do it to me, but I haven't hooked everything up yet.
-Jason
--- On Sun, 1/23/11, Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com> wrote:
[quote]From: Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2011, 9:20 AM
Hi Ron,
This post came at a good time as I am just about to attach
my rudder
springs.
I just finished doing just that on my Super Rebel last week. I attached the springs with an offset equivalent to the distance between the rudder pedal torque tubes.
Seem the way to do it to me, but I haven't hooked everything up yet.
-Jason
--- On Sun, 1/23/11, Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com> wrote:
[quote]From: Joel Jacobs <jj7499@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2011, 9:20 AM
Hi Ron,
This post came at a good time as I am just about to attach
my rudder
springs.
-
Drew Dalgleish
[rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
I have a whole row of holes on the engine mount bracket so that I could
use the springs as rudder trim. I ended up using 2 springs on the right
side and one spring set as light as possible on the left.
On 23/01/2011 4:26 PM, Jason Beall wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
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use the springs as rudder trim. I ended up using 2 springs on the right
side and one spring set as light as possible on the left.
On 23/01/2011 4:26 PM, Jason Beall wrote:
Hi Ron,
I just finished doing just that on my Super Rebel last week. I attached the springs with an offset equivalent to the distance between the rudder pedal torque tubes.
Seem the way to do it to me, but I haven't hooked everything up yet.
-Jason
--- On Sun, 1/23/11, Joel Jacobs<jj7499@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Joel Jacobs<jj7499@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] control cable turnbuckles
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Sunday, January 23, 2011, 9:20 AM
Hi Ron,
This post came at a good time as I am just about to attach
my rudder
springs. I had not thought of using a tang to attach
the spring to
and provide for some adjustment - that is a great idea.
One thing I had been pondering though is this. One
set of pedals is
mounted 1.5" or so in front of the other so if the springs
are both
connected at the same point on the engine mounts then the
angle of the
springs relative to the pedals will be different and
although you can
balance them with the tang length at the neutral position I
would
expect the spring force to become un-balanced at any other
position.
I was thinking of mounting the springs at different points
on the
engine mount bracket so that they are at the same angle to
the pedals.
Maybe I'm over thinking this. Have you ever
noticed your right
pedal being any 'stiffer' than the left?
Joel
R416
On Sat, Jan 15, 2011 at 9:36 PM, Ron Shannon<rshannon@cruzcom.com>
wrote:
set the tensionI set my springs last, and used little steel tangs toprobably going to endexactly where I want it. See http://n254mr.com/node/1391 No matter how
careful you are with making the cables, the sides areof the tangs on theup a little different length. By adjusting the lengthtension from side toforward ends of the springs, I was able to balance the-----------------------------------------------------------------side more precisely.
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