seat stops

[Ron Shannon]

The manual calls for drilling and tapping the seat rail for a 10-32 AN3 to
hold the stops. I'm assuming the idea is to just tap into the rail's I-beam,
not further into the bottom of the rail. Is the drill and tap method sound
for the long term? I'm dubious about a 32 thread in aluminum -- especially
where the thread grip exists on just two narrow faces of the rail's I-beam
-- and I'm not keen to add more holes to the rail if there's a better
alternative. Obviously, the stops are critical.

I've thought of cutting the threads off an AN3 and cross-drilling the grip
shank for a cotter pin -- a sort of clevis pin arrangement. The bolt would
inevitably be subject to some wear movement as the seat whacks the stop over
time, but the clevis bolt wouldn't pop out when the aluminum threads fail at
an inconvenient moment. Any other drawbacks? Or ideas?

Ron
254R




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