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[rebel-builders] Doublers

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british thunder

[rebel-builders] Doublers

Post by british thunder » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm

Hi all
I just posted a pic of the way I fixed the wrinkle in the wheel well on my
1800 amphibs.
this puts any load on the skin directly to the bottom gear bolt.
sorry for the size I should have shrunk it.
Cecil
014R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers

At 10:09 PM 6/30/2007 -0900, you wrote:
Drew
The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you
have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season is
over?
Ray
Mine is similar to what Ken described and the springs are the same as both
Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers
today
about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping that
is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be to
remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way to
the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more structure
tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle plus
the bottom skin.

-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these
cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary
to
bond
-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to
get a
-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal
for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> Drew




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Drew Dalgleish

[rebel-builders] Doublers

Post by Drew Dalgleish » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm

That looks like the right way to fix it Cecil. I didn't want to drill off
my bottom skins rigt at the start of the season. I'm going to keep an eye
on mine and if I have to I'll fix them the same way next winter.

At 08:16 AM 7/11/2007 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all
I just posted a pic of the way I fixed the wrinkle in the wheel well on my
1800 amphibs.
this puts any load on the skin directly to the bottom gear bolt.
sorry for the size I should have shrunk it.
Cecil
014R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers

At 10:09 PM 6/30/2007 -0900, you wrote:
Drew
The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you
have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season is
over?
Ray
Mine is similar to what Ken described and the springs are the same as both
Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers
today
about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping that
is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be to
remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way to
the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more structure
tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle plus
the bottom skin.

-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good. Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these
cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary
to
bond
-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to
get a
-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use pro-seal
for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> Drew




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Drew



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Walter Klatt

[rebel-builders] Doublers

Post by Walter Klatt » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:12 pm

I finally got around to taking off my float wheel well side access covers to
have a close look if I have those wrinkles and/or cracks. Well, I am very
happy to say, no sign of any problems with mine. That's after about 450
hours on the floats, mostly on paved runways, but occasionally on turf or
gravel and the odd real rough strip. Have had many really rough water
landings and take-offs, but have never dropped it in on a runway. So for
whatever reason, mine seem to have survived, so far. Maybe it is those big
blue Elite nose wheel suspension pucks I have used from day 1. They are
firm, but I do have some bounce and good travel, but they do not bottom out.

Walter

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Drew
Dalgleish
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:09 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers

That looks like the right way to fix it Cecil. I didn't want to drill off
my bottom skins rigt at the start of the season. I'm going to keep an eye
on mine and if I have to I'll fix them the same way next winter.

At 08:16 AM 7/11/2007 -0500, you wrote:
Hi all
I just posted a pic of the way I fixed the wrinkle in the wheel well on my
1800 amphibs.
this puts any load on the skin directly to the bottom gear bolt.
sorry for the size I should have shrunk it.
Cecil
014R

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers

At 10:09 PM 6/30/2007 -0900, you wrote:
Drew
The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?. The
cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that you
have
though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying season
is
over?
Ray
Mine is similar to what Ken described and the springs are the same as
both
Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers
today
about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping that
is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be to
remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way to
the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more structure
tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle plus
the bottom skin.

-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other side
is
-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any good.
Also
put
-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
->
-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where these
cracks
are,
-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >
-> >Walter
-> >
-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> >Dalgleish
-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
wheelwell.
-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the
gear
apart
-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary
to
bond
-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would need to
get a
-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
fairly
-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use
pro-seal
for
-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >Drew
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> Drew




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Drew



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ray.mason

[rebel-builders] Doublers

Post by ray.mason » Sun Feb 19, 2012 12:15 pm

Thats looks good cecil. What size of channel is that and does it go right to
the top of the wheel well? Does it look like you could do it without takng off
the skins?

On 7/17/2007 6:58 PM, walter.klatt@shaw.ca wrote to rebel-builders:

-> I finally got around to taking off my float wheel well side access covers to
-> have a close look if I have those wrinkles and/or cracks. Well, I am very
-> happy to say, no sign of any problems with mine. That's after about 450
-> hours on the floats, mostly on paved runways, but occasionally on turf or
-> gravel and the odd real rough strip. Have had many really rough water
-> landings and take-offs, but have never dropped it in on a runway. So for
-> whatever reason, mine seem to have survived, so far. Maybe it is those
big
-> blue Elite nose wheel suspension pucks I have used from day 1. They are
-> firm, but I do have some bounce and good travel, but they do not bottom
out.
->
-> Walter
->
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf
Of Drew
-> Dalgleish
-> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:09 AM
-> To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Doublers
->
-> That looks like the right way to fix it Cecil. I didn't want to drill off
-> my bottom skins rigt at the start of the season. I'm going to keep an eye
-> on mine and if I have to I'll fix them the same way next winter.
->
-> At 08:16 AM 7/11/2007 -0500, you wrote:
-> >Hi all
-> >I just posted a pic of the way I fixed the wrinkle in the wheel well on my
-> >1800 amphibs.
-> >this puts any load on the skin directly to the bottom gear bolt.
-> >sorry for the size I should have shrunk it.
-> >Cecil
-> >014R
-> >
-> >----- Original Message -----
-> >From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
-> >To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
-> >Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 6:31 PM
-> >Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >
-> >
-> >> At 10:09 PM 6/30/2007 -0900, you wrote:
-> >> >Drew
-> >> >The spring gear looks good. Did you do the same as Ken and Bob?.
The
-> >> >cracks are in the same place as mine. I don't have the crease that
you
-> >have
-> >> >though. Are you going to fix them now or wait untill the flying
season
-> is
-> >> over?
-> >> >
-> >> >Ray
-> >>
-> >>
-> >> Mine is similar to what Ken described and the springs are the same as
-> both
-> >> Ken and Bob except I added a grease fitting. I installed the doublers
-> >today
-> >> about a 3" x 4" triangle on both sides of each side skin. I'm hoping
that
-> >> is enough to prevent further cracking. I think the proper fix would be
to
-> >> remove the bottom rear skins and instal a patch that goes all the way
to
-> >> the bulkhead. Also I think that maybe there should be some more
structure
-> >> tieing the wheel well to the bulkhead right now it's just .020 angle
plus
-> >> the bottom skin.
-> >>
-> >>
-> >> >-> Just uploaded a pic of one of the cracks. The one on the other
side
-> is
-> >> >-> about the same but out of 10 tries only one picture was any
good.
-> Also
-> >> >put
-> >> >-> up a pic of the die spring gear installed.
-> >> >->
-> >> >-> At 04:36 PM 6/26/2007 -0700, you wrote:
-> >> >-> >Drew, I would be interested further to know exactly where
these
-> >cracks
-> >> >are,
-> >> >-> >and what you think may have caused them. Any pics to post?
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >Walter
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >-----Original Message-----
-> >> >-> >From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com]
On Behalf
-> >> >Of Drew
-> >> >-> >Dalgleish
-> >> >-> >Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 3:51 PM
-> >> >-> >To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
-> >> >-> >Subject: [rebel-builders] Doublers
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >Hi guys I found a couple small wrinkles and cracks in my float
-> >> >wheelwell.
-> >> >-> >No leaks last year but I want to deal with this while I have the
-> gear
-> >> >apart
-> >> >-> >to install die springs. My question is are rivets really neccessary
-> >to
-> >> bond
-> >> >-> >a doubler to the inside of the wheel well side skin. I would
need to
-> >> get a
-> >> >-> >right angle drill if I wanted to get holes in there but it would be
-> >> fairly
-> >> >-> >easy to clamp it in place with some wedges. I think I'll use
-> pro-seal
-> >for
-> >> >-> >the bonding agent instead of sikaflex. Any comments?
-> >> >-> >Drew
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> >-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> >> >-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> >> >-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> >> >-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >> >-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> >-> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> >> >-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> >> >-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> >> >-> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >> >-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> >
-> >> >-> Drew
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> > List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> >> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> >> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> >> > List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> >
-> >> Drew
-> >>
-> >>
-> >>
-> >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >> List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
-> >> username "rebel" password "builder"
-> >> Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
-> >> List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-> >> -----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >>
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> > username "rebel" password "builder"
-> > Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
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-> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> Drew
->
->
->
-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
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-> username "rebel" password "builder"
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-> -----------------------------------------------------------------
->
->
->




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