builders, to x-mam employees and from the factory itself. Had some very
supportive direct emails as well and supplied them with a few "teaser
photos".
The MAM float manual isn't that bad. Some measurement numbers that are wrong
and a few areas that leave you hanging slightly since it was written for
straights and then adapted for the 'phibs. Where I really think my pictorial
library will help the most is it will be organized in the exact order I
build them....which certainly (like most things I do) doesn't match the
manual. Much less take apart put back together than the manual has you
doing. Tricks for bolting the nose retract rails onto the top deck to
proceed quickly/easily with the nose wheel retract system WHILE IT'S ALL
STILL UPSIDE DOWN on the table/etc. Details of how/when for sealer and where
to fill in "dams".... in advance of bottom skins just like building fuel
tanks (sorry to swear ! LOL). I do not install the bulkheads and side skins
per the manual and believe how I do it is not only easier...it makes for a
smoother side skin install and a flat/straight float.
BTW...if you hated deburing holes building the airplane...you'll absolutely
hate building floats with their ~13,000 or so rivets! No cheating on the
deburing with a flat file...every hole must be debured properly so every
single rivet can sit perfect for leakfree floats. Debur and surface prep is
the ABSOLUTE key to dry floats. Sealer smeared around the aluminum works no
better here than it does in a fuel tank. Every mating surface needs a good
X-hatch scotchbrite pattern extended out enough onto bulks/skins to get the
sealer "fillets" to "bite"and you have to work really hard to be sure the
X-hatch is there in all relief corners etc so you can build up a "dam" of
sealer that will stick and stay there to give you sealed compartments and
leakfree edges, nose and tails. Compared to a fuel tank where you have
limited "exposure time" to transients..... there will be many days and lots
of bare alum tempting everyone that visits your shop to touch it and for
that reason warn them you'll break their nose, the minute the walk thru the
door, if they touch anything. If you miss recleaning where they touched,
just like when painting, the oil from their skin is gonna bite you in the
arse!
I've got to get them done first, by months end is the plan, and then will
have to work on my production team of a computer whiz son finishing up his
5th year and a daughter in 3rd year working on a New Image Media degree. I
have everything for the sides and bulkheads deburred/scotchbrited (3+ FULL
days of work alone) and I sealed/riveted the side skins onto the top decks
yesterday. Hands need a rest and tomorrow will hopefully see all the
bulkheads and main gear "box"sealed/riveted in. Then it will be 24 hours +/-
of "fun" sealing and riveting all 4 side skins on (I'm building both floats
at the same time and highly recommend it if you have room for two work
tables - suggest it saves at least 25% time wise).
Enough ramblings..cutting into my fishing show viewing!
Cheers,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] 1800 Amphib Float building pictorial manual
beWayne
Absoutely yes without a second thought up to about $100.
Probably well worth a lot more but I might resist at $200...
Then I'd probably get into the manual and realize that "resistance is
futile". ;)
Ken
Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
Just a post to see if there is a sufficient number of people that would
I'minterested in buying a photo library of how to build the 1800 amphibs.
notes/dimensionscurrently well beyond 300 in process pictures, with paper
corrector writing directly on the parts in the pictures where required to
havemanual errors or building tips to speed/improve construction (such as the
picture I linked on how to align/square the main gear mechanism a while
back). I figure based on where I am and where I have to get to there will
probably be 500 to 600 pictures by the time this set makes it onto the
airplane. Will also add installation pictures of various installations of
1800's as well.
Just seeing if there is enough interest for such a CD and if so once we
Mostan approximate number we can determine if we'll bother and set a price.
protected....likely be done in a slide show presentation so it can be copy
as we're not going to go to the trouble only to have it boot legged.
Cheers,
Wayne
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