Does anyone have any good detailed photos of the .032 edges on the Rebel
door? I don't know where I have been but I just got to that part of the
manual and it seems pretty darn hokey (professional engineering term). The
manual calls for large gaps overlaped with 1.5" wide strips of .032.
Hopefully it is not as bad as it looks or maybe there is a better way?
Scott Hibbs
Rebel 300R
hibbs@pacifier.com
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Photos of Door edge?
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Drew Dalgleish
Photos of Door edge?
Hey Scott
Itb doesn't look that bad when you're all done from the rebels I've
looked at. I don't know if it's a better way but what I did was leave the
door skin oversize so it overlaps the fuselage. It's more fragile but it
was quick and easy.
Drew Dalgleish
At 06:24 PM 7/28/2002 -0800, you wrote:
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Itb doesn't look that bad when you're all done from the rebels I've
looked at. I don't know if it's a better way but what I did was leave the
door skin oversize so it overlaps the fuselage. It's more fragile but it
was quick and easy.
Drew Dalgleish
At 06:24 PM 7/28/2002 -0800, you wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------Does anyone have any good detailed photos of the .032 edges on the Rebel
door? I don't know where I have been but I just got to that part of the
manual and it seems pretty darn hokey (professional engineering term). The
manual calls for large gaps overlaped with 1.5" wide strips of .032.
Hopefully it is not as bad as it looks or maybe there is a better way?
Scott Hibbs
Rebel 300R
hibbs@pacifier.com
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scott.hibbs
Photos of Door edge?
Thanks Wayne, I will do the .032 underlap with proseal. It is too late for
the crease but that is ok.
On 7/29/02 11:22 AM, ROGNAL wrote to SCOTT HIBBS:
-> Scott,
-> To do a really nice clean looking door leave the
-> door skin oversize, to be the overlap. That way the body lines of the
aircraft
-> are not broken up by the little strips running around the door. Mine
-> has held up without bending for 6+ years, even considering the number of
-> children flights I have done with doors being slammed etc!
->
-> I would suggest though, if you are to do this, to
-> make it really bullet proof you can do it the way we did Howard's. We
-> left the skin oversize to be the overlap and then also put the .032 strips
-> between the door frame and the door skin. On final assembly we bonded
the .032
-> strips to the door skin with Proseal, giving a nice solid .048 "door
-> stop".
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the crease but that is ok.
On 7/29/02 11:22 AM, ROGNAL wrote to SCOTT HIBBS:
-> Scott,
-> To do a really nice clean looking door leave the
-> door skin oversize, to be the overlap. That way the body lines of the
aircraft
-> are not broken up by the little strips running around the door. Mine
-> has held up without bending for 6+ years, even considering the number of
-> children flights I have done with doors being slammed etc!
->
-> I would suggest though, if you are to do this, to
-> make it really bullet proof you can do it the way we did Howard's. We
-> left the skin oversize to be the overlap and then also put the .032 strips
-> between the door frame and the door skin. On final assembly we bonded
the .032
-> strips to the door skin with Proseal, giving a nice solid .048 "door
-> stop".
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scott.hibbs
Photos of Door edge?
Wayne, how about the top. Does the.032 gap seal go between the lexan and the
frame in that case?
Scott
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frame in that case?
Scott
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rognal
Photos of Door edge?
Scott,
This tip was in the archives from Wayne O'shea a year ago:
To do a really nice clean looking door leave the
door skin oversize, to be the overlap. That way the body lines of the aircraft
are not broken up by the little strips running around the door. Mine
has held up without bending for 6+ years, even considering the number of
children flights I have done with doors being slammed etc!
I would suggest though, if you are to do this, to
make it really bullet proof you can do it the way we did Howard's. We
left the skin oversize to be the overlap and then also put the .032 strips
between the door frame and the door skin. On final assembly we bonded the .032
strips to the door skin with Proseal, giving a nice solid .048 "door
stop".
Another thing to make things look nice, is to
continue the crease line on the fuselage side. The tail cone side is creased,
as is the Fus-24. But then the Fus-25 is plain, although the door skin
is also creased. Looks kind of funny with the Fus-25 plain. For
those of you that haven't riveted your FUS-25's on yet. Take a straight edge
and continue the crease line from FUS-24, onto FUS-25. Then use a brake (or
clamp a couple pieces of metal on the piece) and make a light crease in the
part so the crease line is continuous from the door all the way to the back of
the aircraft.
When are placing the door skin have the crease slightly higher than
the one you have made in the FUS-25, to allow for the inevitable sag of the
hinges as everyone seems to like to lean on the door top when they are getting
in the aircraft! Looks nice and also the crease in FUS-25 helps cut down on
oil canning.
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
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This tip was in the archives from Wayne O'shea a year ago:
To do a really nice clean looking door leave the
door skin oversize, to be the overlap. That way the body lines of the aircraft
are not broken up by the little strips running around the door. Mine
has held up without bending for 6+ years, even considering the number of
children flights I have done with doors being slammed etc!
I would suggest though, if you are to do this, to
make it really bullet proof you can do it the way we did Howard's. We
left the skin oversize to be the overlap and then also put the .032 strips
between the door frame and the door skin. On final assembly we bonded the .032
strips to the door skin with Proseal, giving a nice solid .048 "door
stop".
Another thing to make things look nice, is to
continue the crease line on the fuselage side. The tail cone side is creased,
as is the Fus-24. But then the Fus-25 is plain, although the door skin
is also creased. Looks kind of funny with the Fus-25 plain. For
those of you that haven't riveted your FUS-25's on yet. Take a straight edge
and continue the crease line from FUS-24, onto FUS-25. Then use a brake (or
clamp a couple pieces of metal on the piece) and make a light crease in the
part so the crease line is continuous from the door all the way to the back of
the aircraft.
When are placing the door skin have the crease slightly higher than
the one you have made in the FUS-25, to allow for the inevitable sag of the
hinges as everyone seems to like to lean on the door top when they are getting
in the aircraft! Looks nice and also the crease in FUS-25 helps cut down on
oil canning.
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
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rognal
Photos of Door edge?
Scott,
I think Wayne is on vacation until mid-August. I just snipped one of his tips
from the archives and sent it to you. I am not that far along in the building
process yet so can't help you. I did recently pickup the manual on CD and I
could send you the section on building the doors. It would be a Word file.
Let me know.
Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!
On 7/30/02 6:58 AM, SCOTT HIBBS wrote to ROGNAL:
-> Wayne, how about the top. Does the.032 gap seal go between the lexan and
the
-> frame in that case?
->
-> Scott
->
->
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I think Wayne is on vacation until mid-August. I just snipped one of his tips
from the archives and sent it to you. I am not that far along in the building
process yet so can't help you. I did recently pickup the manual on CD and I
could send you the section on building the doors. It would be a Word file.
Let me know.
Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!
On 7/30/02 6:58 AM, SCOTT HIBBS wrote to ROGNAL:
-> Wayne, how about the top. Does the.032 gap seal go between the lexan and
the
-> frame in that case?
->
-> Scott
->
->
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Drew Dalgleish
Photos of Door edge?
I can answer this one Scott. The door top gap seal goes on the outside of
the lexan And make sure that you drill the lexan 5/32 or it will crack when
you rivet it.
Drew
At 07:01 AM 7/30/2002 -0800, you wrote:
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the lexan And make sure that you drill the lexan 5/32 or it will crack when
you rivet it.
Drew
At 07:01 AM 7/30/2002 -0800, you wrote:
tipsScott,
I think Wayne is on vacation until mid-August. I just snipped one of his
buildingfrom the archives and sent it to you. I am not that far along in the
-----------------------------------------------------process yet so can't help you. I did recently pickup the manual on CD and I
could send you the section on building the doors. It would be a Word file.
Let me know.
Roger Hoffman #687R
Eugene, OR USA!
On 7/30/02 6:58 AM, SCOTT HIBBS wrote to ROGNAL:
-> Wayne, how about the top. Does the.032 gap seal go between the lexan and
the
-> frame in that case?
->
-> Scott
->
->
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scott.hibbs
Photos of Door edge?
Thanks Drew and Roger. I will go with the gap on the outside of the lexan but
under the .020 skin of the door.
Scott
-> I can answer this one Scott. The door top gap seal goes on the outside of
-> the lexan And make sure that you drill the lexan 5/32 or it will crack when
-> you rivet it.
-> Drew
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under the .020 skin of the door.
Scott
-> I can answer this one Scott. The door top gap seal goes on the outside of
-> the lexan And make sure that you drill the lexan 5/32 or it will crack when
-> you rivet it.
-> Drew
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