Amphib Wheel Bearings

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your following message has been delivered to the 162 members of
the list murphy-rebel@dcsol.com at 22:21:43 on 4 Nov 2000.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Bob (and All),

Lots of places (including my local guy) stock the 08125 bearings in plain
steel, but since Howard's Chrome plated ones have lasted 3 years without any
problem (since I drilled his axles to fill the wheels with grease), I don't
want to try plain steel ones like the disintigrated ones I removed from
FOKM. I would rather spend the extra $340 on bearings ($100.00/bearing vs
about $15.00 for steel) than the labour TWICE per summer to change them if
using plain steel! Stainless may even be better if available, I should look
into that and see if they are available (and at what cost)!

If it is flying weather I'll be down on the 12th! You all bring your cash
and I'll bring my 8-32 clip nuts, Delrin compatible silcon spray ($10/can),
elevator/rudder "thrust" washers ($5/dozen), photo albums, etc (and yes
Curt, your firewall plates) and at least half my brain. IF ANYONE WANTS ME
TO BRING ANYTHING SPECIFIC, LET ME KNOW, SO I CAN BRING IT WITH ME!!!!!! I
will be cutting and forming firewall reinforcing plates for Curt, Joel and
an inhouse refurb job on Monday or Tuesday, so if anybody else wants a set
(or just the top 2 plates for a refurb) let me know ASAP. Full set of 3
plates $125 cdn ($85 U.S) or top 2 plates only $85.00 cdn ($57.50 U.S.) They
are just under the oversize limit for shipping for parcel post, so very
cheap to mail out (compared to Courier). Especially to the states (as far as
Montana so far for about $22.50cdn (that's $15 cdn postage and $7.50
handling for my packaging time and the trip to the post office etc.)), as
this way I can send as a "gift" to my "cousin" and avoid the customs
expenses and hassles!

Blue skies,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca




----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2000 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Hi Wayne !

As for XWI, maybe you could make VERY LARGE "oil" doors on both sides of

the

cowling. Like from the center "spine" hump, to just above the existing

hinge

line. About 6 of those Hartzell latches per side should hold a 5 square

foot

door shut!

That's kind of what I'm thinking about !! GOT to be a better
way !!!! It might be ugly, but it'd sure be easy to work on ....

HHMMMMmmmmmmmm - probably the same folks that took the
original owner to the cleaners for the "wood" instrument panel &
wiring ($4,000 !!) <and> the "custom GREEN interior" (another $4,000 +) !!
No wonder there was a lot of noise on the radio when the strobes
were on !! Didn't use them much, but DID have to replace the tail
strobe - original setup let it fill up with water !!

Of course you're welcome !! Would have been nice to see FOKM
all re-done !! I think AeroSpares <stock> those bearings - but
maybe not in stainless ....

Hope we'll see you on the 12th - looks like a big crowd !!

.....bobp

--------------------------orig.-----------------------------------------
At 08:13 PM 11/4/00 -0500, you wrote:

It's all right Bob, I was just having <ANOTHER> bad day myself, trying to
get FOKM back in order!! It has been a never ending, 4 month battle so

far,

of hidden factory construction surprises and part availability delays to
correct and modify them. Now 4 months since ordered and still no Chrome
plated wheel bearings from Timken for the Amphibs. Now promised for Nov.
10th. If I had them already, I could have probably shown up for the

12th's

meeting with the "NEW" C- FOKM to show off. Even if I get the bearings on
the 10th (and I'm not holding my breath) it won't leave enough time to

get

the gear back together, weight and balance done and the engine break in
completed. It still needs the panel redone (but that will probably have

to

wait until spring, as it's getting pretty cold in the hanger), but it is
amazing what $32,000 (so far) and 300 hours of work can do to an already
flying aircraft! I think she will be a "keeper" unless someone has
$100,000Cdn to part with!

As for XWI, maybe you could make VERY LARGE "oil" doors on both sides of

the

cowling. Like from the center "spine" hump, to just above the existing

hinge

line. About 6 of those Hartzell latches per side should hold a 5 square

foot

door shut!

OR maybe you can drill a hole through the firewall to fed the wire from

the

back! I forget where the hinge line lined up in relation to the firewall
"plates", motor mount "bath tub" fittings etc, but it may be possible OR
just another stupid notion of mine!

By they way, after a $130 strobe bulb and a $400 dollar power supply I
finally figured out why the right wing strobe light didn't work properly

or

double flash. Whom ever did the wiring swapped the black and red strobe
wires inside the quick connector plugs at the wing root, therefore

reversing

the polarity to the bulb. That is why the bulb was dead when we "swapped"
planes as the flash tubes will flash if reverse powered but the element

is

not designed to do it for very long. Also loads down the discharge
capacitors in the power pack when trying to fire them backwards.

Maybe see you on the 12th, IF it's a flying day and IF I'm still

welcome!!!

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Patterson" <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: "Murphy Rebel Builders List" <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: 0 320 engine mounts / cowling

Sorry Wayne !!

I wasn't meaning that there was anything wrong with your
installation !! In fact, because you did <such> a good job of making
the sides flush by hiding the hinge completely, it looks great,
but is very hard to get the wires in from the back....
and, if you hadn't <added> that oil filler door, I would REALLY
have been unhappy with the cowling !! You did as much as possible
to make it functional - It's just that the design of these fibreglass
cowls is REALLY poor for easy maintenance.

There just HAS to be a better way !! ( Dave Fife - I think
I hear opportuntity knocking again !! ;-) ;-) )

I was pleased to see that the cowling on the Super Rebel
was designed so that the wires DO go in from the back, and can be
locked in place by wrapping them around the cowling retaining screws !

......bobp

--------------------------orig.---------------------------------------
At 12:35 PM 11/3/00 -0500, you wrote:

is a

Bob's

camlocks

to

and I

think

while

checks

cowl

(unless

instead,

to

go

at

the

that

NEVER,

more

installation.

either.

minutes

technique

as

the

The

out,

but

and,

right

done

this

visibility

change

the

standard

and

it

don't

know

for

the

the

aircraft

has

upset.

^%$^%$%^

Australia

-----------------------------orig.--------------------------------------

-

heard

cowling.

The

worth

*------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

-

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

---------*

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

---------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

--------*

The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------

-

--------*

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm

*--------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------*

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm

*---------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------*

*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The Murphy Rebel Builders List is for the discussion
between builders and owners of Murphy Rebel aircraft.
Archives located at:
http://www.dcsol.com/murphy-rebel/lists/default.htm
*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Walter Klatt]

Had my wheels and bearings apart this weekend, and drilled and installed a
grease nipple in the axle. Also, fitted a collar inside to contain the
grease to the bearings so it doesn't fill up the inside wheel cavity. I put
it all back together, and then noticed that the nut side of the axle had a
big gap between the nut and the felt seal. That means that water gets in at
the bearing on that side, as there is no tight seal. The other side has the
axle diameter increased to fit snug against the felt seal which should help
keep out the water.

I read back in the archives and saw mention of a spacer on the nut side to
close this gap to keep the water and dirt out of the bearings. So I
contacted MAM thinking that I was missing that spacer, but they said they
don't supply it.

Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions on how to seal up the nut
side of the axle?




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Walter, the old drawings showed a spacer (and it was used as there on the
one set of amphibs I have in the hanger) and by the time I built Howard's
the spacer was no longer being included in the kits (I guess to cut part
count and costs!) even though the drawing still showed it. Your right, this
leaves it wide open to dirt and water infiltration if the wheel bearings are
only hand packed. Hasn't been an issue since we have been keeping Howard's
wheels filled with grease and continuing to pump a few shots into them at
least once a month throughout the summer to keep them full. Then a good
thorough flushing each fall by pumping grease in until all the
discoloured/milky stuff quits oozing out .

Your idea to cut down on filling the entire wheel with grease is a good one
in one respect (cutting down on grease usage and probably less mess changing
a tube), however half the reason I decided to fill the entire wheel with
grease was so that there would be no water in the wheel come winter storage.
The original design, or your grease sleeve for that matter, will leave the
wheel 1/2 full of water (to the bearing races) and come the -*C weather the
wheels may split from the ice formation. I guess you could drill a few drain
holes in the wheel halves, flush with the inner rim, in maybe 3 spots per
wheel with each halves holes staggered so you have 6 possible low spots.

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:44 PM
Subject: Amphib Wheel Bearings

Had my wheels and bearings apart this weekend, and drilled and installed a
grease nipple in the axle. Also, fitted a collar inside to contain the
grease to the bearings so it doesn't fill up the inside wheel cavity. I

put

it all back together, and then noticed that the nut side of the axle had a
big gap between the nut and the felt seal. That means that water gets in

at

the bearing on that side, as there is no tight seal. The other side has

the

axle diameter increased to fit snug against the felt seal which should

help

keep out the water.

I read back in the archives and saw mention of a spacer on the nut side to
close this gap to keep the water and dirt out of the bearings. So I
contacted MAM thinking that I was missing that spacer, but they said they
don't supply it.

Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions on how to seal up the nut
side of the axle?

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Walter Klatt]

The inside sleeve has an OD of 2 1/8 and is press fitted with aluminium anti
seize compound on the ends so it should be sealed tight enough that no water
can get in from the inside. Then I have the valve stems also sealed with the
rubber grommet and same compound so hopefully that will keep it from coming
in from there. I don't know where else then it could get in.

However, your point is a good one, and I will take them apart again in late
Fall before we get any serious frost and check everything out. If the sleeve
somehow leaks, then there should be grease in the wheel cavity outside the
sleeve. If there is water and no grease, well, then I know it is getting in
from somewhere else.

I still don't like the idea of water being able to get at my bearings so
directly with that gap. I might take it into the salt chuck here some day,
and that would be even worse.

So, next time I take them apart, I will look at making some kind of
washer/spacer to seal up the nut side, too.

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Wayne G. O'Shea
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 8:05 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings


Walter, the old drawings showed a spacer (and it was used as there on the
one set of amphibs I have in the hanger) and by the time I built Howard's
the spacer was no longer being included in the kits (I guess to cut part
count and costs!) even though the drawing still showed it. Your right, this
leaves it wide open to dirt and water infiltration if the wheel bearings are
only hand packed. Hasn't been an issue since we have been keeping Howard's
wheels filled with grease and continuing to pump a few shots into them at
least once a month throughout the summer to keep them full. Then a good
thorough flushing each fall by pumping grease in until all the
discoloured/milky stuff quits oozing out .

Your idea to cut down on filling the entire wheel with grease is a good one
in one respect (cutting down on grease usage and probably less mess changing
a tube), however half the reason I decided to fill the entire wheel with
grease was so that there would be no water in the wheel come winter storage.
The original design, or your grease sleeve for that matter, will leave the
wheel 1/2 full of water (to the bearing races) and come the -*C weather the
wheels may split from the ice formation. I guess you could drill a few drain
holes in the wheel halves, flush with the inner rim, in maybe 3 spots per
wheel with each halves holes staggered so you have 6 possible low spots.

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Klatt" <Walter.Klatt@shaw.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:44 PM
Subject: Amphib Wheel Bearings

Had my wheels and bearings apart this weekend, and drilled and installed a
grease nipple in the axle. Also, fitted a collar inside to contain the
grease to the bearings so it doesn't fill up the inside wheel cavity. I

put

it all back together, and then noticed that the nut side of the axle had a
big gap between the nut and the felt seal. That means that water gets in

at

the bearing on that side, as there is no tight seal. The other side has

the

axle diameter increased to fit snug against the felt seal which should

help

keep out the water.

I read back in the archives and saw mention of a spacer on the nut side to
close this gap to keep the water and dirt out of the bearings. So I
contacted MAM thinking that I was missing that spacer, but they said they
don't supply it.

Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions on how to seal up the nut
side of the axle?

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*


*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Forwarding this to the list just in case there was anyone that ignored this advise, before, while building their amphibs. It's an obvious fact that hand packed bearings won't last very long after your first water landing, as you can read from Chuck Smith's (Florida I beleive) attached e-mail below!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
To: Chuck Smith (seneca3@gte.net)
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings



You guys really need to be on the Rebel builders mail list at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm I have been harping at the guys for over 4 years with the solution for this, that only adds an hour or so to the construction time while building the floats originally. Howard's has gone 4 summers on a set of bearings since I modified his and he lives on the water, so all take offs are from the lake.

You will never keep grease in the bearings the way you are doing it. The wheel fills with water and becomes a centrifuge that just spin washes the bearings clean. What you need to do is take it all apart again. First drill a hole through the diameter of the axle, midway between the bearing locations. Then from the brake disc end (outside) drill a hole lengthwise into the axle until you hit the first cross hole that you drilled, to form a "T". Then tap the axle end hole for a grease fitting. Before you reassemble, fill the entire wheel with grease by hand up to the bearing races (this just saves some time and lets you know the wheel is almost full. I find a tongue depressor works good for this. Then install the axle, bearings (hand pack them first) etc, put the nut on and while someone is rotating the tire continue to pump grease through the grease nipple until it starts to oouz out the axle nut side.

If the wheel is kept full of grease, the water can't get in. Every once in awhile, when on hard ground, give it a few pumps of grease to keep the wheel full. Buy a dedicated gun to carry with you at all times so it is always handy and so you never get the wrong grease in there. I use a synthetic boat trailer wheel bearing grease, with obvious great success. Each fall I just put an entire cartridge of grease through Howard's to get the milky looking stuff out and new stuff in. Still rolling fine after 4 + summers.

Another thing is are you putting plain steel bearings in or chrome plated ones? Not sure if it matters 100%, if you keep them full of grease, but that is what is in Howard's and they are standing up. His first set, that failed in about the same time span as yours, were also chrome plated and when the grease washed off the chrome plate chipped off. They are somewhat harder to get and about $76 for bearing and $32 for race Canadian, but we have had good success with them since keeping the wheel filled with grease.

Cheers,
Wayne G.O'Shea

----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Smith (seneca3@gte.net)
To: Wayne G. O'Shea (oifa@irishfield.on.ca)
Cc: Skip (skomlodi@hotmail.com) ; Seaplpilot@aol.com (Seaplpilot@aol.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Wheel Bearings


Wayne, need a little of your expert help. We have Murphy's 1800 Amphibs. We have about 35 hours on them and have gone through two sets of wheel bearings. No matter what we do the water seems to wash the grease out of the bearings the current bearings lasted for 6 hours and 11 water landings. We are using a good marine grease and are packing the bearings properly.

Have you heard of anyone else with this problem and can you suggest corrective action?

[brian amendala]

Wayne, do you repack the bearings more frequently or use a different type of
bearing?

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Amphib Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 23:18:34 -0400

Forwarding this to the list just in case there was anyone that ignored this
advise, before, while building their amphibs. It's an obvious fact that
hand packed bearings won't last very long after your first water landing,
as you can read from Chuck Smith's (Florida I beleive) attached e-mail
below!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea
To: Chuck Smith
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings


You guys really need to be on the Rebel builders mail list at
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm I have been harping at
the guys for over 4 years with the solution for this, that only adds an
hour or so to the construction time while building the floats originally.
Howard's has gone 4 summers on a set of bearings since I modified his and
he lives on the water, so all take offs are from the lake.

You will never keep grease in the bearings the way you are doing it. The
wheel fills with water and becomes a centrifuge that just spin washes the
bearings clean. What you need to do is take it all apart again. First drill
a hole through the diameter of the axle, midway between the bearing
locations. Then from the brake disc end (outside) drill a hole lengthwise
into the axle until you hit the first cross hole that you drilled, to form
a "T". Then tap the axle end hole for a grease fitting. Before you
reassemble, fill the entire wheel with grease by hand up to the bearing
races (this just saves some time and lets you know the wheel is almost
full. I find a tongue depressor works good for this. Then install the axle,
bearings (hand pack them first) etc, put the nut on and while someone is
rotating the tire continue to pump grease through the grease nipple until
it starts to oouz out the axle nut side.

If the wheel is kept full of grease, the water can't get in. Every once in
awhile, when on hard ground, give it a few pumps of grease to keep the
wheel full. Buy a dedicated gun to carry with you at all times so it is
always handy and so you never get the wrong grease in there. I use a
synthetic boat trailer wheel bearing grease, with obvious great success.
Each fall I just put an entire cartridge of grease through Howard's to get
the milky looking stuff out and new stuff in. Still rolling fine after 4 +
summers.

Another thing is are you putting plain steel bearings in or chrome plated
ones? Not sure if it matters 100%, if you keep them full of grease, but
that is what is in Howard's and they are standing up. His first set, that
failed in about the same time span as yours, were also chrome plated and
when the grease washed off the chrome plate chipped off. They are somewhat
harder to get and about $76 for bearing and $32 for race Canadian, but we
have had good success with them since keeping the wheel filled with grease.

Cheers,
Wayne G.O'Shea


----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Smith
To: Wayne G. O'Shea
Cc: Skip ; Seaplpilot@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Wheel Bearings


Wayne, need a little of your expert help. We have Murphy's 1800
Amphibs. We have about 35 hours on them and have gone through two sets of
wheel bearings. No matter what we do the water seems to wash the grease
out of the bearings the current bearings lasted for 6 hours and 11 water
landings. We are using a good marine grease and are packing the bearings
properly.

Have you heard of anyone else with this problem and can you suggest
corrective action?

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com




-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Brian, I don't want to, or not trying to, sound rude but I thought I laid it
out pretty clearly below and in the past.

I haven't taken Howard's wheels apart, or even out of his floats for that
matter for over 4 years (read about 300 hours of water, grass strips and
pavement!!). Howard lives on the water and flies into my grass strip at
least once a week for fuel. The wheels are kept full of grease with the
occasional pump of grease throughout the summer and his annual in the fall
involves putting an entire cartridge of grease through the wheel to get as
much of the milky looking stuff out as possible. They still roll just fine
and when up on blocks the bearings/axle has no play in it what so ever, so
we take this to mean everything is fine. As long as they roll smooth, don't
click or wobble we aren't taking them apart!!

On the other hand if you simply hand pack per MAM's assembly instructions ,
or buy them prebuilt from the "Islands" you will be lucky to get a summer
out of them. Howard's first set went in about 2 months. As you see from
Chuck Smiths e-mail he has gone through 2 sets of bearings in 35 hours
(starts to hurt at $400/set!!).

I use the bearings that originally came in the Cleveland Wheels, no black
magic here that I'm not sharing. They are Chrome plated and can be confirmed
by an engraved CP in front of the part number. We have been down this road
before with all the float builders on the list and found that some wheels
had plain steel bearings in them and others had chrome plated depending on
which wheels MAM received from Cleveland and shipped out at the time.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian amendala" <n667ba@hotmail.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings

Wayne, do you repack the bearings more frequently or use a different type

of

bearing?

From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Reply-To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Amphib Wheel Bearings
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 23:18:34 -0400

Forwarding this to the list just in case there was anyone that ignored

this

advise, before, while building their amphibs. It's an obvious fact that
hand packed bearings won't last very long after your first water landing,
as you can read from Chuck Smith's (Florida I beleive) attached e-mail
below!!

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea
To: Chuck Smith
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel Bearings


You guys really need to be on the Rebel builders mail list at
http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm I have been harping at
the guys for over 4 years with the solution for this, that only adds an
hour or so to the construction time while building the floats originally.
Howard's has gone 4 summers on a set of bearings since I modified his and
he lives on the water, so all take offs are from the lake.

You will never keep grease in the bearings the way you are doing it. The
wheel fills with water and becomes a centrifuge that just spin washes the
bearings clean. What you need to do is take it all apart again. First

drill

a hole through the diameter of the axle, midway between the bearing
locations. Then from the brake disc end (outside) drill a hole lengthwise
into the axle until you hit the first cross hole that you drilled, to

form

a "T". Then tap the axle end hole for a grease fitting. Before you
reassemble, fill the entire wheel with grease by hand up to the bearing
races (this just saves some time and lets you know the wheel is almost
full. I find a tongue depressor works good for this. Then install the

axle,

bearings (hand pack them first) etc, put the nut on and while someone is
rotating the tire continue to pump grease through the grease nipple until
it starts to oouz out the axle nut side.

If the wheel is kept full of grease, the water can't get in. Every once

in

awhile, when on hard ground, give it a few pumps of grease to keep the
wheel full. Buy a dedicated gun to carry with you at all times so it is
always handy and so you never get the wrong grease in there. I use a
synthetic boat trailer wheel bearing grease, with obvious great success.
Each fall I just put an entire cartridge of grease through Howard's to

get

the milky looking stuff out and new stuff in. Still rolling fine after 4

+

summers.

Another thing is are you putting plain steel bearings in or chrome plated
ones? Not sure if it matters 100%, if you keep them full of grease, but
that is what is in Howard's and they are standing up. His first set, that
failed in about the same time span as yours, were also chrome plated and
when the grease washed off the chrome plate chipped off. They are

somewhat

harder to get and about $76 for bearing and $32 for race Canadian, but we
have had good success with them since keeping the wheel filled with

grease.

Cheers,
Wayne G.O'Shea


----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Smith
To: Wayne G. O'Shea
Cc: Skip ; Seaplpilot@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: Wheel Bearings


Wayne, need a little of your expert help. We have Murphy's 1800
Amphibs. We have about 35 hours on them and have gone through two sets

of

wheel bearings. No matter what we do the water seems to wash the grease
out of the bearings the current bearings lasted for 6 hours and 11 water
landings. We are using a good marine grease and are packing the bearings
properly.

Have you heard of anyone else with this problem and can you suggest
corrective action?

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Drew Dalgleish]

Hi Wayne I was thinking that I would have to take apart my gear every year
to lube up all the hinge pionts. Have you added lots of grease fittings to
Howards gear or do you just give them a squirt of oil?
Drew Dalgleish

I haven't taken Howard's wheels apart, or even out of his floats for that
matter for over 4 years (read about 300 hours of water, grass strips and
pavement!!). >

-----------------------------------------------------





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Drew, we just do it the lazy mans way and squirt LPS-1 Greaseless lube in
first (as it doesn't attract dirt) to seep in on the bolt and then coat the
area with a spray of white lithium to keep the water at bay as best we can.
Doesn't seem to be too much slop in any pivot points <yet> and I figure that
when there final is we will disassemble and "bush" all the pivots back to
size and start the cycle over again. Going into the 5th summer on Howard's
and I know he is good for at least a couple more before this is necessary. 7
years of tear down labour saved by him could buy him a couple sets of
retract system gear, so neither of us are worried about it and I'm not
looking that hard for work. The secret to his shock rubbers survival is the
fact that I block his floats off the ground and let the gear hang (just like
I do with my old cars to re-arch the leaf springs every year). Probably not
as big an issue if the floats are removed from your aircraft for the winter,
but Howard's stays on floats and gets stored for about 6 1/2 months a year.

Don't get me wrong, it probably is a good idea to tear apart every fall if
you have the extra spare time, but not imperative that it gets done if you
have better things to do with your time.

Cheers,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Drew Dalgleish" <drewjan@cabletv.on.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: Amphib Wheel Bearings

Hi Wayne I was thinking that I would have to take apart my gear every year
to lube up all the hinge pionts. Have you added lots of grease fittings to
Howards gear or do you just give them a squirt of oil?
Drew Dalgleish

I haven't taken Howard's wheels apart, or even out of his floats for that
matter for over 4 years (read about 300 hours of water, grass strips and
pavement!!). >

-----------------------------------------------------

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*

To unsubscribe go to http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/listserv.htm
Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com

*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*





-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------