We are wrestling with whether or not to install defrosters or not. It
would require an addtional heat box to select "cabin heat" or "defrost" on
the cabin side of the firewall. I would like an opinion (especially from
the Canadian contingent) on the desirability versus additional expense and
work involved. Our Elite will have basic IFR capability and will be flown
mostly in Montana with a climate similar to lower Canada.
Thanks for the help with this decision,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
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Defrosters
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Wayne G. O'Shea
Defrosters
Ralph, on my personal Rebel I made a small defrost box out of scraps of
aluminum. Bent up a rectangular box to be riveted under the panel and then a
sliding door with a knob on it that opens and closes. I never move the
slide, so you could probably just mount a flange to the underside of the
panel. I used a 1" scat hose and it runs down to where my cabin heat valve
comes through the firewall. In front of the heat outlet I mounted a
deflector plate so you don't toast the passengers feet/legs. In the center
of this deflector plate is where the scat hose hooks on so it gets enough
air pressure to push hot air to the windshield. Works great and I have flown
around when it was -34*C.
You can make 1" duct flanges from scraps of the 1" push pull tube material
if you are careful. Use a holes saw to put a 1" diameter hole into a block
of wood. Cut a piece of tube so it leaves about 1/2" sticking out of the
block and then carefully peen over with a ball peen hammer. On large
diameter tube I start with a trailer hitch ball and then go to peening!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: Defrosters
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aluminum. Bent up a rectangular box to be riveted under the panel and then a
sliding door with a knob on it that opens and closes. I never move the
slide, so you could probably just mount a flange to the underside of the
panel. I used a 1" scat hose and it runs down to where my cabin heat valve
comes through the firewall. In front of the heat outlet I mounted a
deflector plate so you don't toast the passengers feet/legs. In the center
of this deflector plate is where the scat hose hooks on so it gets enough
air pressure to push hot air to the windshield. Works great and I have flown
around when it was -34*C.
You can make 1" duct flanges from scraps of the 1" push pull tube material
if you are careful. Use a holes saw to put a 1" diameter hole into a block
of wood. Cut a piece of tube so it leaves about 1/2" sticking out of the
block and then carefully peen over with a ball peen hammer. On large
diameter tube I start with a trailer hitch ball and then go to peening!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Baker" <rebaker@ftc-i.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: Defrosters
**We are wrestling with whether or not to install defrosters or not. It
would require an addtional heat box to select "cabin heat" or "defrost" on
the cabin side of the firewall. I would like an opinion (especially from
the Canadian contingent) on the desirability versus additional expense and
work involved. Our Elite will have basic IFR capability and will be flown
mostly in Montana with a climate similar to lower Canada.
Thanks for the help with this decision,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with
**** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself
**** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm
**** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com
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LisaFly99
Defrosters
In a message dated 1/15/02 11:29:28 AM Central Standard Time, rebaker@ftc-i.net writes:
PUT in the defrost, you'll never know you need it TILL you get in a situation where you have to have it. IT's H*^L flying with you're head out the window.
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D
RALPHWe are wrestling with whether or not to install defrosters or not. It
would require an addtional heat box to select "cabin heat" or "defrost" on
the cabin side of the firewall.
PUT in the defrost, you'll never know you need it TILL you get in a situation where you have to have it. IT's H*^L flying with you're head out the window.
Phil&Lisa Smith
#460R
N414D
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Bob Patterson
Defrosters
Hi Ralph !
I've only ever needed a defroster in the Rebel ONCE ! But
who knows what the weather will be like in a few years !!
One of our builders just drilled a row of 1/2" holes on
2" centers through the top of the panel, about 2" back from the
windshield. This allowed warm air from below to rise up and
keep the fog off.
Another bent up a channel and rivetted it to the back of
the top of the panel & ran a 1" scat tube down to the heater
inlet, with a manual flapper valve - on for winter, off otherwise.
He also drilled the 1/2" holes about 2" behind the windshield,
so the warm air from the channel was directed to the windshield.
Unibits are great for these !
The channel was just bent sheet, with a pipe flange at
one end for the scat tube, and the ends bent up & rivetted :
------ --------
\ /
PROFILE \ /
\__| |_/
| |
SIDE
====- -- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------- - -====
\ /
\-----------------------------------------| |---/
| |
Easy to bend & rivet ....
You probably don't have to worry about a valve - the extra
heat won't hurt in the winter. You could just add the channel for
now, and only install the scat tube if you find you need more heat.
You might want to add a flapper box in front of the firewall,
though, to switch from warm air in winter to cool air in summer.
These aren't hard to make, and dump the warm air out the bottom
of the cowl, instead of turning it loose in the engine compartment !
......bobp
---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 12:09 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
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I've only ever needed a defroster in the Rebel ONCE ! But
who knows what the weather will be like in a few years !!
One of our builders just drilled a row of 1/2" holes on
2" centers through the top of the panel, about 2" back from the
windshield. This allowed warm air from below to rise up and
keep the fog off.
Another bent up a channel and rivetted it to the back of
the top of the panel & ran a 1" scat tube down to the heater
inlet, with a manual flapper valve - on for winter, off otherwise.
He also drilled the 1/2" holes about 2" behind the windshield,
so the warm air from the channel was directed to the windshield.
Unibits are great for these !
The channel was just bent sheet, with a pipe flange at
one end for the scat tube, and the ends bent up & rivetted :
------ --------
\ /
PROFILE \ /
\__| |_/
| |
SIDE
====- -- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------- - -====
\ /
\-----------------------------------------| |---/
| |
Easy to bend & rivet ....
You probably don't have to worry about a valve - the extra
heat won't hurt in the winter. You could just add the channel for
now, and only install the scat tube if you find you need more heat.
You might want to add a flapper box in front of the firewall,
though, to switch from warm air in winter to cool air in summer.
These aren't hard to make, and dump the warm air out the bottom
of the cowl, instead of turning it loose in the engine compartment !
......bobp
---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 12:09 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
We are wrestling with whether or not to install defrosters or not. It
would require an addtional heat box to select "cabin heat" or "defrost" on
the cabin side of the firewall. I would like an opinion (especially from
the Canadian contingent) on the desirability versus additional expense and
work involved. Our Elite will have basic IFR capability and will be flown
mostly in Montana with a climate similar to lower Canada.
Thanks for the help with this decision,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **
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-
Walter Klatt
Defrosters
Another option is to use a small 12V DC heater that plugs into your cig
lighter outlet on your panel. I bought one last year, actually on Bob P.'s
suggestion when we last discussed this topic. I got mine from Canadian Tire,
and I think it was $19 at the time. Works great. It does use 10 A, so be
sure you have a big enough fuse and wire for your lighter outlet. I only
need it when it is below freezing, and I have another heavy breather in the
cockpit, and only to take-off. Once I'm flying it is turned off, and my
cabin heat does the job.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:43 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Defrosters
Hi Ralph !
I've only ever needed a defroster in the Rebel ONCE ! But
who knows what the weather will be like in a few years !!
One of our builders just drilled a row of 1/2" holes on
2" centers through the top of the panel, about 2" back from the
windshield. This allowed warm air from below to rise up and
keep the fog off.
Another bent up a channel and rivetted it to the back of
the top of the panel & ran a 1" scat tube down to the heater
inlet, with a manual flapper valve - on for winter, off otherwise.
He also drilled the 1/2" holes about 2" behind the windshield,
so the warm air from the channel was directed to the windshield.
Unibits are great for these !
The channel was just bent sheet, with a pipe flange at
one end for the scat tube, and the ends bent up & rivetted :
------ --------
\ /
PROFILE \ /
\__| |_/
| |
SIDE
====- -- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------- - -====
\ /
\-----------------------------------------| |---/
| |
Easy to bend & rivet ....
You probably don't have to worry about a valve - the extra
heat won't hurt in the winter. You could just add the channel for
now, and only install the scat tube if you find you need more heat.
You might want to add a flapper box in front of the firewall,
though, to switch from warm air in winter to cool air in summer.
These aren't hard to make, and dump the warm air out the bottom
of the cowl, instead of turning it loose in the engine compartment !
......bobp
---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 12:09 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
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-----------------------------------------------------------------
lighter outlet on your panel. I bought one last year, actually on Bob P.'s
suggestion when we last discussed this topic. I got mine from Canadian Tire,
and I think it was $19 at the time. Works great. It does use 10 A, so be
sure you have a big enough fuse and wire for your lighter outlet. I only
need it when it is below freezing, and I have another heavy breather in the
cockpit, and only to take-off. Once I'm flying it is turned off, and my
cabin heat does the job.
-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
Bob Patterson
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:43 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Defrosters
Hi Ralph !
I've only ever needed a defroster in the Rebel ONCE ! But
who knows what the weather will be like in a few years !!
One of our builders just drilled a row of 1/2" holes on
2" centers through the top of the panel, about 2" back from the
windshield. This allowed warm air from below to rise up and
keep the fog off.
Another bent up a channel and rivetted it to the back of
the top of the panel & ran a 1" scat tube down to the heater
inlet, with a manual flapper valve - on for winter, off otherwise.
He also drilled the 1/2" holes about 2" behind the windshield,
so the warm air from the channel was directed to the windshield.
Unibits are great for these !
The channel was just bent sheet, with a pipe flange at
one end for the scat tube, and the ends bent up & rivetted :
------ --------
\ /
PROFILE \ /
\__| |_/
| |
SIDE
====- -- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ------- - -====
\ /
\-----------------------------------------| |---/
| |
Easy to bend & rivet ....
You probably don't have to worry about a valve - the extra
heat won't hurt in the winter. You could just add the channel for
now, and only install the scat tube if you find you need more heat.
You might want to add a flapper box in front of the firewall,
though, to switch from warm air in winter to cool air in summer.
These aren't hard to make, and dump the warm air out the bottom
of the cowl, instead of turning it loose in the engine compartment !
......bobp
---------------------------------orig.---------------------------------
At 12:09 PM 1/15/02 -0500, you wrote:
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **We are wrestling with whether or not to install defrosters or not. It
would require an addtional heat box to select "cabin heat" or "defrost" on
the cabin side of the firewall. I would like an opinion (especially from
the Canadian contingent) on the desirability versus additional expense and
work involved. Our Elite will have basic IFR capability and will be flown
mostly in Montana with a climate similar to lower Canada.
Thanks for the help with this decision,
Ralph Baker / Sue Scouten
Elite 624E (reserved)
** To unsubscribe, send e-mail to list-server@dcsol.com with **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
** Archives located at http://rebel:builder@www.dcsol.com:81/default.htm **
** To contact the list admin, e-mail mike.davis@dcsol.com **
** UNSUBSCRIBE MURPHY-REBEL in the message body on a line by itself **
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