Hello folks,
Please help! When constructing my bulkhead F - according to my manual dated
1993, it says in step 158:
"Cleco two round bulkhead sections to fus-39 and fus-24's. Figure 63."
My fus-39 has no flanges on it, just a single row of holes down each side.
There was only one possible way to cleco the bulkhead quarters to fus-39 so
I built it that way. Here is a picture:
http://www.spyparts.com/users/jj/Rebel/BulkheadF.jpg
My bulkhead F is completed and riveted to fuse-39. Fuse-39 is already
riveted to the next bulkhead back where the float attach fittings are. I am
making the three half bulkheads that go between the F bulkhead and the front
carrythrough and I notice - The bottom of Bulkhead F is almost an inch wider
than the top! The cage assy, the top of F and A bulkheads are 44", the
bottom of F is nearly 45". The cutouts in bulkhead A straddle the row of
holes in fus-39 like in this picture:
http://www.spyparts.com/users/jj/Rebel/fus-39rear.jpg
As you saw in the first pix the cutouts on bulkhead F are outboard of the
row of holes and that was the only way to cleco it as the manual said. This
does not look right to me. If it's wrong I need a plan to remedy this.
Would it be acceptable to cut out a 1/2" section of F right over the cutouts
on both sides and slap a doubler over it? Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Joel Jacobs
Rebel 416
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Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
Joel, you're right! Your "F" is wrong!
ALL the bulkheads from the float point forwards are 44" wide. I make them
all at once in a simple jig made from a piece of plywood and rivet mandrels.
I lay one bulkhead set out so it is perfectly straight/square and 44" wide
and hammer in mandrels along all the sides to hold the bulkhead set tightly
in place. Then drill the 9 overlap rivet holes. Remove the bulkhead and now
you have a jig to do the other 8 or 10 sets exactly the same width for a
nice square cabin, and mainly it cuts the time considerable if you make them
all up in advance!
Joel, I would just remove it (F) and drill out the 9 overlap rivets. The
bulkhead should cleco onto the FUS-39 the same way that float bulkhead is
showing in your picture. To others building this section it is a LOT easier
to build if you have access to a brake and bend up both sides of the FUS-39
about 80*, to put a small edge on them to hold the sheet out straight while
you fit the next bulkheads etc.
Sorry for the extra work Joel, but better now than when you get any further!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 12:12 PM
Subject: Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
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ALL the bulkheads from the float point forwards are 44" wide. I make them
all at once in a simple jig made from a piece of plywood and rivet mandrels.
I lay one bulkhead set out so it is perfectly straight/square and 44" wide
and hammer in mandrels along all the sides to hold the bulkhead set tightly
in place. Then drill the 9 overlap rivet holes. Remove the bulkhead and now
you have a jig to do the other 8 or 10 sets exactly the same width for a
nice square cabin, and mainly it cuts the time considerable if you make them
all up in advance!
Joel, I would just remove it (F) and drill out the 9 overlap rivets. The
bulkhead should cleco onto the FUS-39 the same way that float bulkhead is
showing in your picture. To others building this section it is a LOT easier
to build if you have access to a brake and bend up both sides of the FUS-39
about 80*, to put a small edge on them to hold the sheet out straight while
you fit the next bulkheads etc.
Sorry for the extra work Joel, but better now than when you get any further!
Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 12:12 PM
Subject: Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
datedHello folks,
Please help! When constructing my bulkhead F - according to my manual
so1993, it says in step 158:
"Cleco two round bulkhead sections to fus-39 and fus-24's. Figure 63."
My fus-39 has no flanges on it, just a single row of holes down each side.
There was only one possible way to cleco the bulkhead quarters to fus-39
amI built it that way. Here is a picture:
http://www.spyparts.com/users/jj/Rebel/BulkheadF.jpg
My bulkhead F is completed and riveted to fuse-39. Fuse-39 is already
riveted to the next bulkhead back where the float attach fittings are. I
frontmaking the three half bulkheads that go between the F bulkhead and the
widercarrythrough and I notice - The bottom of Bulkhead F is almost an inch
Thisthan the top! The cage assy, the top of F and A bulkheads are 44", the
bottom of F is nearly 45". The cutouts in bulkhead A straddle the row of
holes in fus-39 like in this picture:
http://www.spyparts.com/users/jj/Rebel/fus-39rear.jpg
As you saw in the first pix the cutouts on bulkhead F are outboard of the
row of holes and that was the only way to cleco it as the manual said.
cutoutsdoes not look right to me. If it's wrong I need a plan to remedy this.
Would it be acceptable to cut out a 1/2" section of F right over the
**on both sides and slap a doubler over it? Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Joel Jacobs
Rebel 416
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Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
bottom? I had to locate all the holes across fus-39 - none were
pre-punched. If I drill all those out and re-do the overlap none of the
holes in the bulkhead or fus-39 will line up anymore. They would be about
half a hole off. If I did that I would have to drill new holes between all
the existing holes on the bottom of F. Do you think it would be acceptable
to do it that way?
Thanks.
Joel
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From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Rats, I hate when that happens!Joel, you're right! Your "F" is wrong!
Did I mention F is already riveted on the sides and across fus-39 on theJoel, I would just remove it (F) and drill out the 9 overlap rivets. The
bulkhead should cleco onto the FUS-39 the same way that float bulkhead is
showing in your picture.
bottom? I had to locate all the holes across fus-39 - none were
pre-punched. If I drill all those out and re-do the overlap none of the
holes in the bulkhead or fus-39 will line up anymore. They would be about
half a hole off. If I did that I would have to drill new holes between all
the existing holes on the bottom of F. Do you think it would be acceptable
to do it that way?
Thanks.
Joel
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Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
Yes Joel, that is what I would do (double pitch of rivets), as I believe
that is your last set of round cornered bulkheads so you can't reuse them
somewhere else and back drill into "virgin" sheet metal in a new location.
The bulkheads are worth $60 Cdn each (about $10 American!), so don't throw
them away because you have to add 30 rivets!
I guess there is also the option of what I think you were "getting at" in
your earlier mailing. Cut each side about 3 inches in from the cut outs so
you can get at least a 5" overlap doubler centered over the cut. One side
you will be able to use a scrap piece of the smaller width bulkhead "arm"
and the other you will have to make one up so they fit inside the bulkhead
channel. 6 to 9 rivets, each side of the cut, should suffice and I would
probably add a backer to the flat side of the bulkhead across the splice to
tie it all together nicely. This way you won't have as much to drill apart
and make sure that when you do the skin rivets that the rivet pitch ties the
channel flanges together at the splice also.
Good luck!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
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that is your last set of round cornered bulkheads so you can't reuse them
somewhere else and back drill into "virgin" sheet metal in a new location.
The bulkheads are worth $60 Cdn each (about $10 American!), so don't throw
them away because you have to add 30 rivets!
I guess there is also the option of what I think you were "getting at" in
your earlier mailing. Cut each side about 3 inches in from the cut outs so
you can get at least a 5" overlap doubler centered over the cut. One side
you will be able to use a scrap piece of the smaller width bulkhead "arm"
and the other you will have to make one up so they fit inside the bulkhead
channel. 6 to 9 rivets, each side of the cut, should suffice and I would
probably add a backer to the flat side of the bulkhead across the splice to
tie it all together nicely. This way you won't have as much to drill apart
and make sure that when you do the skin rivets that the rivet pitch ties the
channel flanges together at the splice also.
Good luck!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Jacobs" <jj@netexp.net>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
is----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne G. O'Shea <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
Rats, I hate when that happens!Joel, you're right! Your "F" is wrong!
Joel, I would just remove it (F) and drill out the 9 overlap rivets. The
bulkhead should cleco onto the FUS-39 the same way that float bulkhead
allDid I mention F is already riveted on the sides and across fus-39 on theshowing in your picture.
bottom? I had to locate all the holes across fus-39 - none were
pre-punched. If I drill all those out and re-do the overlap none of the
holes in the bulkhead or fus-39 will line up anymore. They would be about
half a hole off. If I did that I would have to drill new holes between
acceptablethe existing holes on the bottom of F. Do you think it would be
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Possible screwup - Bulkhead F
Hi Joel,
I would suggest you buy a copy of the new manual on CD from MAM. They are
only about $25 US and have all the mods and changes, as well as real
pictures, you may want to incorporate into the your kit.
Bruce G
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I would suggest you buy a copy of the new manual on CD from MAM. They are
only about $25 US and have all the mods and changes, as well as real
pictures, you may want to incorporate into the your kit.
Bruce G
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