RV-1613 Rivets

[Scott & Leere' Aldrich]

My RV-1613 rivets don't seem to fit a #11 hole unless I use undo force.
Anyone else had this problem? The heads measure out to .193 with some .194
along the ridges. I just went to a #10 drill (.193) instead of #11 (.191)

Scott




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[Tim Saxton]

Scott,

I've had exactly this problem. I've been using a drill guage to select the
rivets. If I can push (using firm hand pressure) the rivet through the #11
hole in the drill guage then I accept the rivet. Seems to shear off the
oversized edges of the rivet. Rivet will now insert okay into #11 drilled
hole. I've found about 1/3 of rivets will fail this test. This is not good
for my drill guage but at least I'm able to keep going with the RV-1613
rivets I have on hand.

My plan is to ask MAM to replace these rivets since they are clearly out of
spec.

BTW, I received these rivets in Feb. this year. Might be a batch problem.

Tim
SR 060

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich [mailto:flynski@peoplepc.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RV-1613 Rivets


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My RV-1613 rivets don't seem to fit a #11 hole unless I use undo force.
Anyone else had this problem? The heads measure out to .193 with some .194
along the ridges. I just went to a #10 drill (.193) instead of #11 (.191)

Scott


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[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Not a batch problem Tim! The RV1613 & 19 rivets have always (last 8 years
anyhow!) needed a light tap with a plastic hammer on the end of the rivet
gun, if going into a #11 hole of any substantial (over .063") material
thickness. Like they say better too tight, than too loose! There is the odd
one that is a real -itch to get in though. Most stuff being riveted with the
larger rivets is thick enough that it's not deformed by the extra exertion
required to get them in. Another trick is to take a piece of wooden dowel
about 6 inches long x 3/8" diameter and drill a centre hole in it that will
fit over the mandrel (or a piece of aluminum round bar stock is even
better). Use it as a driver to lightly tap the rivets in place.

Note that when doing solid rivets they do use a #10 drill for 3/16 rivets.
MAM has you using a #11 to give a tighter fit with the pull rivets as they
don't need as much clearance, since they are not solid or perfectly round.

Regards,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Saxton" <Tim_Saxton@CreoScitex.com>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 4:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV-1613 Rivets


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Scott,

I've had exactly this problem. I've been using a drill guage to select the
rivets. If I can push (using firm hand pressure) the rivet through the #11
hole in the drill guage then I accept the rivet. Seems to shear off the
oversized edges of the rivet. Rivet will now insert okay into #11 drilled
hole. I've found about 1/3 of rivets will fail this test. This is not good
for my drill guage but at least I'm able to keep going with the RV-1613
rivets I have on hand.

My plan is to ask MAM to replace these rivets since they are clearly out

of

spec.

BTW, I received these rivets in Feb. this year. Might be a batch problem.

Tim
SR 060

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott & Leere' Aldrich [mailto:flynski@peoplepc.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:25 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: RV-1613 Rivets

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The list archives are located at:
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My RV-1613 rivets don't seem to fit a #11 hole unless I use undo force.
Anyone else had this problem? The heads measure out to .193 with some .194
along the ridges. I just went to a #10 drill (.193) instead of #11 (.191)

Scott

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[Mike Kimball]

My SR building compatriot here in Fairbanks told me that a long time ago
(pre SR and pre Elite) he talked to Darryl Murphy and was told that they use
#29 and #10 bits when constructing planes at the factory to make the rivets
pop in easier. My buddy said that Darryl also told him not to tell other
builders that little tidbit. Oh well, call me (and my buddy) a
blabbermouth. I have used the #30 and #11 bits as instructed for my plane
and I guess I will continue doing so since I am on the downhill side of
finishing my fuselage now. Don't know if the factory still does this or
not, or even if the original story is true, but I do know that Avex rivets
are designed to swell and would not be too concerned with the very tiny
difference between a #11 and #10 bit. Usually, for me, when I find a hole
that I am having a hard time getting the rivet into, I just run the #30 or
#11 bit through the hole again and the rivet generally goes in. I also use
a little piece of dowel with a hole drilled in the end to help push the
rivet in.

Mike Kimball
SR#044

Mike Kimball
SR #044




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