Lots of questions again

[Mike Kimball]

Do you eventually use the piece of tailcone side skin that you cut away to
make the cargo door? I want to know how careful I have to be cutting this
piece out. In other words, I probably shouldn't drill a hole to start the
cut if I need to use this piece later for the door itself. What's the best
tool to use to cut thin aluminum? My snips leave a curly, wrinkly edge, and
my nibbler cuts a wide slot and mars the surface. My bandsaw works great,
but only for pieces that fit through the saw width. My jigsaw only works on
thick aluminum, like the sills, but mars the surface as well. Don't use a
jigsaw on thin aluminum!
-------------------------------
Hey Bob P.,

A while ago, in response to a question someone asked about putting in the
floor one bay farther back into the tailcone, you mentioned a "trick" of
using thin mylar to transfer holes to the fuse floor. What were you
referring to? Has anyone devised a way to do this in a Super Rebel with the
flap cable in the way?
-------------------------------
I have also found Acetone to be cheaper than MEK and I also noticed that the
description on a can of MEK in the hardware store says to use MEK when a
slower evaporation rate than Acetone is desired. I must say that I like the
fast evaporation rate of Acetone. I don't want to have to wait for it to
evaporate before I scotchbrite.
-------------------------------
Thanks Tom Packard. I ended up bending the cabin to fuselage wraps with my
hands as best I could, then kind of held them in place while drilling and
clecoing carefully until done and this worked pretty well. Your right about
splitting one corner wrap in two, but I fitted each half from the sill just
past bulkhead A and overlapping the front end of the next corner wrap back.
I made no attempt to align corner wrap overlaps with bulkheads. I just laid
in a line of rivets at each overlap wherever it ended up. All corner wraps
are in place now and I still have two pieces left over. I also tried using
an edge roller on a couple of corner wraps like the manual says to, so that
the edges will be pulled down tight on the side skins, but that left a
wrinkly edge and doesn't look near as good as an unrolled corner wrap, so I
stopped edge rolling. Now I have two edge rolled corner wraps with wrinkly
edges and the rest not edge rolled. I am hoping that the extra two corner
wraps I have left over aren't needed elsewhere and I can use them to replace
the edge rolled ones. Anybody know?

Also, as a heads up for SR builders, and maybe Rebel builders if the baggage
area is built the same, the manual has you install angles that run from the
rear of the cabin into the first bay of the tailcone along the shear webs.
Unfortunately, if you follow the instructions you'll end up with angles on
both sides of the shear web and no way to use the prepunched holes in the
shear web to back drill the angles. One angle should be installed and back
drilled through the shear web before the other angle is installed. In fact,
if I had it to do over, I would final drill and rivet the angles on the top
of the shear webs right at the time the angles are first installed. You'll
have to wait on the bottom ones and the outside shear web angles since the
outside ones have to be bent in and aligned parallel with the edges of the
bottom tailcone skin, and the bottom angles need to be seated against the
bottom tailcone skin. Unfortunately, I can't figure out any way to do the
bottom angles on the two center shear webs using the prepunched holes. I
ended up drilling through the angles without using the prepunched holes in
the shear webs as a guide. I was able to roughly mark the location of the
holes and then drill between them to ensure that I wasn't ending up halfway
through a prepunched hole somewhere. A 90 degree angle drill will come in
very handy here too. I don't have one. So I used a long bit passed through
the holes in the outside shear web/angles to drill the inside shear
web/angles. Broke a lot of long bits doing this.

----------------------------------

Hey Rick,

MANGALORE! How could I forget? Lots of fun. My Stinson was white with
brown and maroon accents, and I don't have any gray hair yet at 41. Must
have missed each other. I also don't remember seeing any Murphy products
other than my Renegade Spirit and one other Renegade Spirit there or
anywhere else. Your plane will certainly spur more builders into action!
Ole' Howard Hughes will find some stiff competition for his Lightwings, eh?
Say, can I trouble you for an email address in case I want to reminisce more
about living and flying in Australia without bothering the rest of the list?
Or perhaps the list likes to hear the stories too? I have a couple of hair
raising flying stories from my outback Australia experiences, including
crashing my poor Renegade in the Mountains southwest of Brisbane.

Mike Kimball
SR #044




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[klehman]

Hi Mike

Smooth snips that do not have a serraded edge help. My favourite one is single
action rather than the compound "aviation" snips. Also I cut oversize and then
trim 1/16". It seems that trimming stretches the edge less and I have to sand or
file less. But I always have to sand/file back the edge a little unless using a
table type sheet metal shear. With a shear I only have to smooth and round the
edge a bit.

I use the less toxic acetone but you want to wipe it mostly dry before it
evaporates and redeposits the oil.

The edge rollers mounted on a 1/2" diameter 6" long bar also give me a wrinkly
edge but I get nice smooth edges with the one that has the rollers mounted in
the middle of a 1/2" thick 3" round disk.

When you are putting in the interior floor you can't see where the channels are
under the floor to drill into. One method is to pretend a sheet of acetate is
the floor, drill enough holes to locate the channels, then lay the acetate on
the real aluminum floor and transfer the holes to the real aluminum floor.

Ken



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[tjpackard]

Mike:
You and I seem to be running into the same problems in building. I also ran
into the problem trying to match drill through those angles with a
predrilled shear web in between. With a 90 deg drill I was able to get at
2/3rds of them by spreading the angles apart: and the rest I did what you
did and drilled holes in between the predrilled shear web holes.
Regarding the cargo door, yes, there is another skin to replace the one you
have already installed. Unfortunately, it sounds like you riveted it in
place. I believe you're supposed to just cleco it in place for alignment
purposes and then remove to build the real cargo door. I asked Murphy
about this one and this door skin becomes extra material. Besides it now
has a line of holes drilled in it at bulkhead 'A'.
To cut thin aluminum with snips, it's best to make two cuts - the first
one about 1/8" from the final edge location, and then the second cut on the
final edge. Just make sure that each individual snip doesn't go to the end
(tips) of the snipper. That will prevent that little wrinkle at the end of
each cut.
On the fit between the sill and the bottom corner wrap, I ended up using
the sand bag and silicone rubber skin with the hand dolly. Instead of
bending the sill inward to the corner wrap, I stretched the inside surface
of the corner wrap with the dolly till it came close to the sill. (approx.
1//32"). The small gap left, I will fill with a structural epoxy.

Good Luck

Tom




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[Bob Patterson]

Hi Mike !

This is something that builders here have been doing for
years. We use a roll of clear drafting Mylar to drill through to
position the holes in the bulkheads for the floor, then put the
Mylar on the floor skin & drill it to match. You can see through
the Mylar, so positioning is easy, and it is stable to humidity
and temperature, unlike paper. This would likely work under a
cable, as it is easy to unroll into position, and cleco in place.

I recently heard of a builder who uses the bottom fuselage
skin to position these holes, as it's already pre-punched ! Sounds
a bit tricky to position, though, and I'd worry about damage
getting it in and out of the inside of the fuse.....

.....bobp

------------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 12:07 PM 7/8/01 -0800, you wrote:

-------------------------------
Hey Bob P.,

A while ago, in response to a question someone asked about putting in the
floor one bay farther back into the tailcone, you mentioned a "trick" of
using thin mylar to transfer holes to the fuse floor. What were you
referring to? Has anyone devised a way to do this in a Super Rebel with the
flap cable in the way?
-------------------------------

Mike Kimball
SR #044

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[rebelair]

Hi Ken

Instead of acetate, I used the Lexan that was sent with the kit to be used
for the windshield. Of course I ordered a proper windshield instead of
using the Lexan. It worked really well for this job.

Brian #328R

-----Original Message-----
From: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com [mailto:murphy-rebel@dcsol.com]On Behalf Of
klehman@albedo.net
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2001 5:57 PM
To: murphy-rebel@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: Lots of questions again


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Hi Mike

Smooth snips that do not have a serraded edge help. My favourite one is
single
action rather than the compound "aviation" snips. Also I cut oversize and
then
trim 1/16". It seems that trimming stretches the edge less and I have to
sand or
file less. But I always have to sand/file back the edge a little unless
using a
table type sheet metal shear. With a shear I only have to smooth and round
the
edge a bit.

I use the less toxic acetone but you want to wipe it mostly dry before it
evaporates and redeposits the oil.

The edge rollers mounted on a 1/2" diameter 6" long bar also give me a
wrinkly
edge but I get nice smooth edges with the one that has the rollers mounted
in
the middle of a 1/2" thick 3" round disk.

When you are putting in the interior floor you can't see where the channels
are
under the floor to drill into. One method is to pretend a sheet of acetate
is
the floor, drill enough holes to locate the channels, then lay the acetate
on
the real aluminum floor and transfer the holes to the real aluminum floor.

Ken
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