Just spoke to a rep at Poly-Fiber and this is the gist of what he told
me regarding painting the SuperRebel.
Wipe down airplane with degreaser then rinse with soap and water. Put
on a conversion coating - leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse off. Apply
a 2 part Epoxy primer system - let cure for 7 days and paint within 10
days, no sanding required.
For painting he said it was OK to use the Aero-Thane paint sold by
Aircraft Spruce and for 3 coats applied we would need approx. 9 gallons
of paint for the SR. He also said the paint would weigh .23 ounces per
square foot.
Any comments or thoughts would be appreciated.
Monica Piquette
SR003
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Do you want this big green box to go away? Well here's how...
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
Click here for full update
Wildcat! photo archives restored.
Click here for full update
Donors can now disable ads.
Click here for instructions
Add yourself to the user map.
Click here for instructions
painting
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
painting
Monica, my Rebel is painted with 2 part epoxy urethane. PPG to be specific,
that a lot of the premium body shops use. I used this paint as I have an old
car that was painted with it in 1989. The paint shines as if it was just
painted yesterday, with 3 years or more of dust on the car! My Rebel has
been flying for 6 years now and the paint is still as shinny as the old
car's.
I took over the Auto Body shop, that was 3 doors down the street from my
plastics plant, for about 2 weeks. We removed any splashed EP420 from around
rivet heads, as the body shop owner told me that it would probably cause the
paint to lift as those areas weren't prepped. That 1 week (x 2 people)
exercise taught me to clean the airframe continuously while building, with
acetone as if you are going to stay polished aluminum, so I don't ever have
to spend a week with a razor blade in my hand again! We then scotchbrited
the entire a/c with light abrasive pads and wiped down the entire aircraft
with wax remover/degreaser. It took a lot of convincing, from the body shop
owner, that I didn't need any of those etching / conversion coatings like
all the books spell out, and then we sprayed the PPG epoxy primer without
any etching / conversion coatings etc. (Keep in mind that paint technology
is away ahead of the old aircraft painting steps, as there are lots of
aluminum & rubber car parts around that this paint must stay adhered to!)
With the PPG system you MUST get all the colours on top of the primer (and
on top of each colour) within 72 hours, because if you don't you will have
to sand for adhesion before you put down the next coat. The paint hasn't
fallen off it yet (other than around some screws on the gear fairings that
have been in and out a few times and an area were I know a fairing was
picked up without a gloved hand prior to primer) so I guess we didn't need
the etch / conversion coating step!
That's all I know about painting, other than I pay someone now if I need it!
Once was enough and we were using a 3500 square foot shop, and their spray
both, so we could hang the wings and all the fairings to shoot the primer on
everything in one day. Then we assembled and disassembled and assembled and
disassembled, etc, for a 4 colour dart shaped paint scheme that required the
flaperons / wing tips, elevators, all fairings etc, to go on and off at
least 3 times to get the masking in the right places!
Good luck,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter & Monica" <capete@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
that a lot of the premium body shops use. I used this paint as I have an old
car that was painted with it in 1989. The paint shines as if it was just
painted yesterday, with 3 years or more of dust on the car! My Rebel has
been flying for 6 years now and the paint is still as shinny as the old
car's.
I took over the Auto Body shop, that was 3 doors down the street from my
plastics plant, for about 2 weeks. We removed any splashed EP420 from around
rivet heads, as the body shop owner told me that it would probably cause the
paint to lift as those areas weren't prepped. That 1 week (x 2 people)
exercise taught me to clean the airframe continuously while building, with
acetone as if you are going to stay polished aluminum, so I don't ever have
to spend a week with a razor blade in my hand again! We then scotchbrited
the entire a/c with light abrasive pads and wiped down the entire aircraft
with wax remover/degreaser. It took a lot of convincing, from the body shop
owner, that I didn't need any of those etching / conversion coatings like
all the books spell out, and then we sprayed the PPG epoxy primer without
any etching / conversion coatings etc. (Keep in mind that paint technology
is away ahead of the old aircraft painting steps, as there are lots of
aluminum & rubber car parts around that this paint must stay adhered to!)
With the PPG system you MUST get all the colours on top of the primer (and
on top of each colour) within 72 hours, because if you don't you will have
to sand for adhesion before you put down the next coat. The paint hasn't
fallen off it yet (other than around some screws on the gear fairings that
have been in and out a few times and an area were I know a fairing was
picked up without a gloved hand prior to primer) so I guess we didn't need
the etch / conversion coating step!
That's all I know about painting, other than I pay someone now if I need it!
Once was enough and we were using a 3500 square foot shop, and their spray
both, so we could hang the wings and all the fairings to shoot the primer on
everything in one day. Then we assembled and disassembled and assembled and
disassembled, etc, for a 4 colour dart shaped paint scheme that required the
flaperons / wing tips, elevators, all fairings etc, to go on and off at
least 3 times to get the masking in the right places!
Good luck,
Wayne G. O'Shea
www.irishfield.on.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter & Monica" <capete@sympatico.ca>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 6:09 PM
Subject: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*Just spoke to a rep at Poly-Fiber and this is the gist of what he told
me regarding painting the SuperRebel.
Wipe down airplane with degreaser then rinse with soap and water. Put
on a conversion coating - leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse off. Apply
a 2 part Epoxy primer system - let cure for 7 days and paint within 10
days, no sanding required.
For painting he said it was OK to use the Aero-Thane paint sold by
Aircraft Spruce and for 3 coats applied we would need approx. 9 gallons
of paint for the SR. He also said the paint would weigh .23 ounces per
square foot.
Any comments or thoughts would be appreciated.
Monica Piquette
SR003
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
David M Parrish
painting
On 17 Apr 2001, at 23:11, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
that has about a third of the paint peeled off of the roof. The
reason? Poor adhesion to the aluminum coated steel. I plan on
repainting it myself, using Polyfiber products to get a feel for the
system - starting with alodine.
---
David Parrish
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I wouldn't be too confident about that. I have a '90 Dodge Daytonaowner, that I didn't need any of those etching / conversion coatings
like all the books spell out, and then we sprayed the PPG epoxy primer
without any etching / conversion coatings etc. (Keep in mind that
paint technology is away ahead of the old aircraft painting steps, as
that has about a third of the paint peeled off of the roof. The
reason? Poor adhesion to the aluminum coated steel. I plan on
repainting it myself, using Polyfiber products to get a feel for the
system - starting with alodine.
---
David Parrish
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
painting
Stop driving so fast David!!!!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*On 17 Apr 2001, at 23:11, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
I wouldn't be too confident about that. I have a '90 Dodge Daytonaowner, that I didn't need any of those etching / conversion coatings
like all the books spell out, and then we sprayed the PPG epoxy primer
without any etching / conversion coatings etc. (Keep in mind that
paint technology is away ahead of the old aircraft painting steps, as
that has about a third of the paint peeled off of the roof. The
reason? Poor adhesion to the aluminum coated steel. I plan on
repainting it myself, using Polyfiber products to get a feel for the
system - starting with alodine.
---
David Parrish
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
klehman
painting
Peter
As yet another variant - After normal degreasing, Alumiprep (metal prep)
worked well for me and let me avoid the toxic alodine process
(carcinogenic chromium ions). Randolf and others agreed that that was
quite acceptable. You scotch-brite while wet and it etches the aluminum
a bit. Just another idea. It was easy to use. I haven't painted but I
primed the fuselage a couple of years ago. The adhesion seems excellant.
The interior adhesion where I degreased but did not use alumniprep is
not as good.
David
Any chance your Dodge is really zinc coated not aluminum coated?
FWIW Polyfibre insists that the auto (and all other) industry is
prohibited from using any true polyurethanes anymore because of
isocyanates in the hardener. Perhaps this is not true outside the USA
but I suspect that a lot of paint used in Canada is made in the USA.
They also said epoxy paint is unsuitable for a topcoat. Polyfibre sure
stresses that their polyurethane paint does contain poisonous
isocyanates and requires fresh breathing air. Do modern automotive
urethanes in Canada (PPG for instance) contain isocyanates?
Ken
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
As yet another variant - After normal degreasing, Alumiprep (metal prep)
worked well for me and let me avoid the toxic alodine process
(carcinogenic chromium ions). Randolf and others agreed that that was
quite acceptable. You scotch-brite while wet and it etches the aluminum
a bit. Just another idea. It was easy to use. I haven't painted but I
primed the fuselage a couple of years ago. The adhesion seems excellant.
The interior adhesion where I degreased but did not use alumniprep is
not as good.
David
Any chance your Dodge is really zinc coated not aluminum coated?
FWIW Polyfibre insists that the auto (and all other) industry is
prohibited from using any true polyurethanes anymore because of
isocyanates in the hardener. Perhaps this is not true outside the USA
but I suspect that a lot of paint used in Canada is made in the USA.
They also said epoxy paint is unsuitable for a topcoat. Polyfibre sure
stresses that their polyurethane paint does contain poisonous
isocyanates and requires fresh breathing air. Do modern automotive
urethanes in Canada (PPG for instance) contain isocyanates?
Ken
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
David M Parrish
painting
On 18 Apr 2001, at 8:55, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
neurtal territory, like Iowa, and discuss this besmirching of my
character. I'm in Georgia, so I'll see you in one hour! Oregon Aero
squishies at twenty paces!
---
David
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
How dare you say I drive fast! In fact, I think we should meet in----* Stop driving so fast David!!!!
neurtal territory, like Iowa, and discuss this besmirching of my
character. I'm in Georgia, so I'll see you in one hour! Oregon Aero
squishies at twenty paces!
---
David
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
David M Parrish
painting
On 18 Apr 2001, at 9:28, klehman@albedo.net wrote:
before. Definitely not like hot dip zinc. The surface looks almost
like sand blasted steel, though the coating is _very_ thin. Areas
that have been exposed the longest are beginning to rust heavily.
---
David Parrish
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Could be, but if it is, it doesn't look like any zinc coating I've seenAny chance your Dodge is really zinc coated not aluminum coated?
before. Definitely not like hot dip zinc. The surface looks almost
like sand blasted steel, though the coating is _very_ thin. Areas
that have been exposed the longest are beginning to rust heavily.
---
David Parrish
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Louis Young
painting
Chrysler screwed up in 1990 by eliminating a coat of primer designed to
protect paint from ultraviolet rays...PPG told them ( and GM ....see all
those flaky chevy trucks ?? ) that the modified clear coat top coat would
stop UV from getting through.... I think it was '93 before they realized
what a terrible error that was...... I forget what the "wash coat" is you
are seeing, but it dies pretty quickly in hot sun.......
----- Original Message -----
From: David M Parrish <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
protect paint from ultraviolet rays...PPG told them ( and GM ....see all
those flaky chevy trucks ?? ) that the modified clear coat top coat would
stop UV from getting through.... I think it was '93 before they realized
what a terrible error that was...... I forget what the "wash coat" is you
are seeing, but it dies pretty quickly in hot sun.......
----- Original Message -----
From: David M Parrish <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*On 18 Apr 2001, at 8:55, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
How dare you say I drive fast! In fact, I think we should meet in----* Stop driving so fast David!!!!
neurtal territory, like Iowa, and discuss this besmirching of my
character. I'm in Georgia, so I'll see you in one hour! Oregon Aero
squishies at twenty paces!
---
David
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
klehman
painting
This agrees with what I have been told. ie. NEVER use a clearcoat on
aircraft because it will not last as long as the base paint when exposed
to sun.
I remember Dodge advertising in the mid/late 80's galvanizing on all
body panels on at least some models and scooping production of the steel
with long term contracts. It was indeed a very thin smooth coating and
not all that effective.
Ken
Louis Young wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
aircraft because it will not last as long as the base paint when exposed
to sun.
I remember Dodge advertising in the mid/late 80's galvanizing on all
body panels on at least some models and scooping production of the steel
with long term contracts. It was indeed a very thin smooth coating and
not all that effective.
Ken
Louis Young wrote:
Chrysler screwed up in 1990 by eliminating a coat of primer designed to
protect paint from ultraviolet rays...PPG told them ( and GM ....see all
those flaky chevy trucks ?? ) that the modified clear coat top coat would
stop UV from getting through.... I think it was '93 before they
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Drew and Jan
painting
Yes Ken in Canada we're still allowed to use isocyanate hardened
polyurathanes. That and cheap labour is why most canadian paint shops are
booked over a year in advance.
Drew
-----------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
polyurathanes. That and cheap labour is why most canadian paint shops are
booked over a year in advance.
Drew
-----------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Wayne G. O'Shea
painting
Sorry David, but the chain around my ankle is connected mid-span of my
workshop and is only long enough to allow me to make it to the house and the
hanger! Unfortunately not long enough to let me off the property, let alone
to Iowa!
Take care,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
workshop and is only long enough to allow me to make it to the house and the
hanger! Unfortunately not long enough to let me off the property, let alone
to Iowa!
Take care,
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@radbsd.mcg.edu>
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: painting
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*On 18 Apr 2001, at 8:55, Wayne G. O'Shea wrote:
How dare you say I drive fast! In fact, I think we should meet in----* Stop driving so fast David!!!!
neurtal territory, like Iowa, and discuss this besmirching of my
character. I'm in Georgia, so I'll see you in one hour! Oregon Aero
squishies at twenty paces!
---
David
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
klehman
painting
I understand this for aviation shops but automotive shops don't use
isocyanates or do they?
Ken
Drew and Jan wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
isocyanates or do they?
Ken
Drew and Jan wrote:
Yes Ken in Canada we're still allowed to use isocyanate hardened
polyurathanes. That and cheap labour is why most canadian paint shops are
booked over a year in advance.
Drew
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Drew and Jan
painting
Yes they do for high end paint jobs. Immerom is one of the most common. I
used another one called Limco 1-2-3 on my plane.
Drew
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
used another one called Limco 1-2-3 on my plane.
Drew
-----------------------------------------------------I understand this for aviation shops but automotive shops don't use
isocyanates or do they?
Ken
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
bob.patterson
painting
Received: from bretweir.total.net ([154.11.89.176])
by dcsol.com (wcSMTP v5.4.449.4)
with SMTP id 29865421; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:31:35 -0800
Received: (qmail 24690 invoked from network); 22 Apr 2001 01:31:09 -0000
Received: from unknown (HELO ip55.toronto77.dialup.canada.psi.net) (154.20.71.55)
by bretweir.total.net with SMTP; 22 Apr 2001 01:31:09 -0000
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: painting
Hi Peter !
Sounds like we should have a session on painting at the
next Rebel Builders Meeting on June 10th ! ;-)
Pretty well acknowledged standard prep is to etch with
Alumiprep while Scotchbriting (be sure to rinse THOROUGHLY after !).
You <can> Alodine after etching, but this is generally considered
unnecessary and unhealthy for you, and the environment !
Primer and paint after that - many choices, but be sure to
use a MATCHED system. (not one brand primer, with different brand
paint ...) Several builders here have had good results with R-M
brand paints. These are commercial auto paints, in 3 grade levels.
There is a Straight Enamel - cheap, easy, and not very durable.
The middle grade is called "UNA", and is a 2 part Epoxy Enamel -
very easy to spray, and quite rugged. The top grade is called
"Base Clear", which is also a 2-part paint, (I believe polyurethane),
which is a system of primer, base coat, and a clear top coat.
There was a BEAUTIFUL red RV-6 here done with BASE CLEAR, and it
looked like the paint was a foot deep !! This needs to be done
by a craftsman ...
My Rebel (Yellow & Red) was done with the earlier version
of "UNA", and I was very pleased with the gloss & durability of
the paint - I'll be using the same stuff on the NEW Rebel !
PPG Durethane, Alumigrip, and Imron are also popular....
....bobp
---------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 06:09 PM 4/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
by dcsol.com (wcSMTP v5.4.449.4)
with SMTP id 29865421; Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:31:35 -0800
Received: (qmail 24690 invoked from network); 22 Apr 2001 01:31:09 -0000
Received: from unknown (HELO ip55.toronto77.dialup.canada.psi.net) (154.20.71.55)
by bretweir.total.net with SMTP; 22 Apr 2001 01:31:09 -0000
X-Sender: crs1188@inforamp.net
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
To: <murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
From: Bob Patterson <bob.patterson@canrem.com>
Subject: Re: painting
Hi Peter !
Sounds like we should have a session on painting at the
next Rebel Builders Meeting on June 10th ! ;-)
Pretty well acknowledged standard prep is to etch with
Alumiprep while Scotchbriting (be sure to rinse THOROUGHLY after !).
You <can> Alodine after etching, but this is generally considered
unnecessary and unhealthy for you, and the environment !
Primer and paint after that - many choices, but be sure to
use a MATCHED system. (not one brand primer, with different brand
paint ...) Several builders here have had good results with R-M
brand paints. These are commercial auto paints, in 3 grade levels.
There is a Straight Enamel - cheap, easy, and not very durable.
The middle grade is called "UNA", and is a 2 part Epoxy Enamel -
very easy to spray, and quite rugged. The top grade is called
"Base Clear", which is also a 2-part paint, (I believe polyurethane),
which is a system of primer, base coat, and a clear top coat.
There was a BEAUTIFUL red RV-6 here done with BASE CLEAR, and it
looked like the paint was a foot deep !! This needs to be done
by a craftsman ...
My Rebel (Yellow & Red) was done with the earlier version
of "UNA", and I was very pleased with the gloss & durability of
the paint - I'll be using the same stuff on the NEW Rebel !
PPG Durethane, Alumigrip, and Imron are also popular....
....bobp
---------------------------------orig.--------------------------------
At 06:09 PM 4/17/01 -0400, you wrote:
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
The list archives are located at:
http://www.dcsol.com:81/public/default.htm
username: rebel password: builder
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
Just spoke to a rep at Poly-Fiber and this is the gist of what he told
me regarding painting the SuperRebel.
Wipe down airplane with degreaser then rinse with soap and water. Put
on a conversion coating - leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse off. Apply
a 2 part Epoxy primer system - let cure for 7 days and paint within 10
days, no sanding required.
For painting he said it was OK to use the Aero-Thane paint sold by
Aircraft Spruce and for 3 coats applied we would need approx. 9 gallons
of paint for the SR. He also said the paint would weigh .23 ounces per
square foot.
Any comments or thoughts would be appreciated.
Monica Piquette
SR003
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
You have received this message because you have subscribed to the
murphy-rebel mailing list.
To unsubscribe from this list, send an e-mail to: list-server@dcsol.com
with "unsubscribe murphy-rebel" in the body of the message.
For assistance contact mike.davis@dcsol.com
*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-
Falcon
painting
Standard Rebel S/N 404R.
The painting has finally started. I began with the 5 loose tail pieces.
This comprises about 100 sq ft of area and I wanted to test out what
quantities of paint is required to get this done. The first step was to
scotchbrite everything with a caustic soda etch. I then water rinsed and
air dried all parts. A wipe with prep-sol completed the prep work. I
would not fill the heads of the rivets until painting is complete and
then would go back and put just enough paint in the hole to cover the
broken stem. My first layer of paint was Dupont 615S variprime using
616S mid converter. I was advised by Dupont never to use the 620S fast
converter if temp is over 70 F. The supply shop wanted to sell me the
620S because that is the one that they sell the most of. I had some
limited experience with that and it wants to cure when you are pouring
it into the paint cup.( if you use the fast converter.) This mixed
material is very heavy and I had some problems getting started. I will
use a little reducer the next time to help it flow. I did get it to go
on wet. Most of my problems came from being unfamiliar with the
equipment. The LEX- AIRE HVLP gun was purchased at a flea market and I
was unsure of it's operation. I also used a new 2 quart pressure cup to
compound my problem of unfamiliarity. I mixed 1 quart at first to try
things out and it went fairly well. When I finished with that quart I
mixed another and put in the pot without cleaning the pressure pot. I
think this is why my problems began. Surfice it to say that eventually I
overcame these problems but not without a lot of frustration. I used 2
1/2 quarts (ready to spray) to put the 2 medium coats on. Today I added
the IMRON top coat (matterhorn white). Caution, you must use a full face
fresh air mask when working with these paints. My calculations called
for two quarts to be used but things went much better and I used only 1
1/4 quarts(RTS). At first I got a little orange peel but for the most
part everything went OK. Maybe some color sanding will touch up a few
areas up. I used the material mixed as required and added 5 % reducer.
It was 80 deg F in the garage today. I think the wings will go better.
The prep for the wings will be done this week and I hope during the week
I will be able to shoot 1 of the wings and have them both done by next
Sat.
Rick D.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The painting has finally started. I began with the 5 loose tail pieces.
This comprises about 100 sq ft of area and I wanted to test out what
quantities of paint is required to get this done. The first step was to
scotchbrite everything with a caustic soda etch. I then water rinsed and
air dried all parts. A wipe with prep-sol completed the prep work. I
would not fill the heads of the rivets until painting is complete and
then would go back and put just enough paint in the hole to cover the
broken stem. My first layer of paint was Dupont 615S variprime using
616S mid converter. I was advised by Dupont never to use the 620S fast
converter if temp is over 70 F. The supply shop wanted to sell me the
620S because that is the one that they sell the most of. I had some
limited experience with that and it wants to cure when you are pouring
it into the paint cup.( if you use the fast converter.) This mixed
material is very heavy and I had some problems getting started. I will
use a little reducer the next time to help it flow. I did get it to go
on wet. Most of my problems came from being unfamiliar with the
equipment. The LEX- AIRE HVLP gun was purchased at a flea market and I
was unsure of it's operation. I also used a new 2 quart pressure cup to
compound my problem of unfamiliarity. I mixed 1 quart at first to try
things out and it went fairly well. When I finished with that quart I
mixed another and put in the pot without cleaning the pressure pot. I
think this is why my problems began. Surfice it to say that eventually I
overcame these problems but not without a lot of frustration. I used 2
1/2 quarts (ready to spray) to put the 2 medium coats on. Today I added
the IMRON top coat (matterhorn white). Caution, you must use a full face
fresh air mask when working with these paints. My calculations called
for two quarts to be used but things went much better and I used only 1
1/4 quarts(RTS). At first I got a little orange peel but for the most
part everything went OK. Maybe some color sanding will touch up a few
areas up. I used the material mixed as required and added 5 % reducer.
It was 80 deg F in the garage today. I think the wings will go better.
The prep for the wings will be done this week and I hope during the week
I will be able to shoot 1 of the wings and have them both done by next
Sat.
Rick D.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
