778R
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-12-06, at 2:00 PM, "Mike Davis" <mike.davis@dcsol.com> wrote:
A quick thought here from someone at the other end of the spectrum.
Granted, you will definitely want the best heat you can get in your
airplane, and keeping your windows defrosted is a must... but please
remember that "if" you ever find yourself on the ground prior to reaching
your planned destination, you will often find that you have only what you
are wearing. In other words, dress warmly, and turn the heat down if you
get too warm.
I had to do a search last winter for a lost snow machiner near Fort Yukon,
and the temperature on the ground was -53F... at 1500 AGL it jumped up to
-25F... but I still flew with a sleeping back across our laps! And yes, you
can land a C206 without ever getting the RPM below the green arc!
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Eduardo Gutierrez Sosa
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2011 7:32 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Winter Rebel Flying
Hi: I am not at all familiar with below freezing temperatures, because I
live in a tropical area of this globe. Food for thought is the fact that
below freezing temperatures, the air tends to be dry, it's only logical,
although when you raise the temperature of air around an object, as warmer
air has a larger capacity to store humidity (relative humidity is "relative"
to ambient temperature) that humidity will condense in contact with an
object which has a lower temperature, unless that object has a higher
temperature than its surrounding air, which is when it will reject humidity
and stay dry.
This explains why inside the cargo trailer will condense air when heat is
turned up, the trailer is colder than its ambient temperature.
My advice is to leave the engine cold below freezing till the time you must
start it, which is when the engine must be heated to well above freezing
temperatures, let´s say around 15 to 20°C, especially the oil. This is if
you want to save money in electric bill, but best is to keep the engine
above freezing temperatures all the time it´s not in use.
Instruments is another story; I´m sure these will not allow freezing
temperatures, so the cabin must be left with temperatures above freezing,
all the time. Two good 100 watts incandescent bulbs should do the trick (not
sure about this). Just hang them somewhere inside the cabin where they will
not fall and heat something up to the point it will produce a fire. Keep the
cabin well covered to avoid heat dissipation.
Regards, Eduardo
-----Mensaje original-----
De: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] En nombre de Dan Cook
Enviado el: viernes, 02 de diciembre de 2011 06:24 p.m.
Para: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Asunto: RE: [rebel-builders] Winter Rebel Flying
Hello all, I have followed the forms for a while now but have never got in
on the discussions..... I cant help myself this time. I have also often
wondered if it would be a good idea to leave a little heat on under the cowl
through the winter. I suspect if the cowl was well bundled up it would not
take very much power (even 50 to 100 watts) would make a big temperature
differential between outside the cowl and inside on a -40 degree centigrade
night especially inside a good hangar. The effects of this heat would even
migrate into the cabin and some of those expensive instruments (especially
glass panels) would benefit even if they were only 5 degrees warmer than
outside. Most of all the wife might not even notice the cost of the 50 or
100 watts on the electricity bill (how many 100 watt light bulbs burn all
evening in the house ??)
However the internet brings out all opinions and I am tore as to whether
this would promote or lessen corrosion.
My brain argues with itself as follows.....
a) I have an enclosed cargo trailer and as soon as I put any heat in it ice
instantly forms on the walls and roof and as long as the heat is there it
"sweats" inside ...... I don't want this to happen in my engine
b) In central Canada typically the humidity goes down in the winter with the
cold anyway so is it even worth the effort.
c) Cold air holds less water than warm air so if the inside of the cowl is
warm could there potentially be more water there now to eventually condense
inside the engine and cause rust
d) Perhaps the heating element would "dry out" the air inside the cowl and
eliminate the humidity which is required for corrosion???
I have heard that while reiff style heaters work well they do cause sweating
inside the engine as is the case with my trailer and should only be used if
you plan on flying soon .....
This is just my rambling and I am no expert. I would love to get all other
points of view. I am very tempted to bundle the cowling up real tight and
put some heat inside possibly on a thermostat that keeps the temperature
around +2 Celsius. Also note that due to our situation we don't plan on
much winter flying so we are essentially storing the airplane for the
winter.
-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of
Eduardo Gutierrez Sosa
Sent: December-02-11 3:14 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Winter Rebel Flying
Hi John: I've heard of Reiff heaters (Reiff preheat systems, or
reiffpreheat.com) which mainly heat electrictly the base of the cylinders,
individually, and have thermostatic control to avoid those unwanted
surprises of overheated engines. They also have oil pan heaters. I have in
my engine to keep it warm and avoid humidity inside the engine (24/7), and I
live in a humid warm area. Regards, Eduardo
El 02/12/11 16:45, "John R. Davidson" <skidaddy20000@hotmail.com> escribió:
warming?
Hello All,
I am planning to do some winter flying this year and am looking for
some advice and guidelines on preheating the engine, an O-320 in my case.
The Rebel lives in a fully enclosed, unheated hangar, with
electricity. The plane has a Tannis type sump heater.
1) At what outside temperature do you consider pre-heating desirable,
mandatory?
2) Is it necessary, advisable, a waste of time to have a hot air
blower circulating air over the cylynders? I've seen some propane
powered, some electric powered.
One of my ultra-light friends uses an electric paint stripping gun to
preheat his engine. I keep telling him its a snowmobile engine, and
likes the cold, but to no avail.
3) I'm not likely to spring for custom insulated cowl covers, but is
there any point in wrapping an old sleeping-bag around the cowls while4) Would it be unwise to put the Tannis on a programmable timer set to
come on a couple of hours before I expect to arrive next time? Don't
want to arrive to a pile of ashes and cinders.
5) Are there any other thoughts, ideas, considerations to make this
project safer, more convenient, more comfortable?
Thanks for your suggestions.
John
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login username
"rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login username "rebel"
password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login username "rebel"
password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login username "rebel"
password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------
List archives located at: https://mail.dcsol.com/login
username "rebel" password "builder"
Unsubscribe: rebel-builders-unsubscribe@dcsol.com
List administrator: mike.davis@dcsol.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
