[rebel-builders] Polygone - Proseal Polysulfide eater! Produ

[Wayne G. O'Shea]

Paul, It says after 4 hour dwell time you have to reapply... so assume it
quits working. The layer I left on overnight in the shop dried right out and
wasn't doing anything in the morning. It had softened everything though and
it wiped off easily with acetone.

Ken... I should have some sikaflex covered float bulkheads somewhere, from a
previous float rebuild. I'll dig those out today and throw some on one !

Wayne


----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Michel" <n616pm@gmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Polygone - Proseal Polysulfide eater! Product
Review

Thanks Wayne
It's going to make the Rebel repair a lot more bearable. Didn't see the 4
hour thing on the spec sheet that ACS sent me.
Paul

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 11:53 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea
<oifa@irishfield.on.ca>wrote:

The gel doesn't seem to migrate too far from where you put it, if at all.
In
a case where you're just trying to bare a spot I think you could tape it
off
and gel the area you want.. scrape and then rinse well WITH WATER without
effecting too much beside it.

I generally fix most tanks from the outside, when I find a leaking lap
seem,
with great success by cleaning the entire joint area as well as the
entire
perimiter of the effected tank bulkhead to skin area and lay up a fillet
around the entire thing. It's just trying to get the area clean enough to
do
so while working thru a limited access hole you've cut out of the lower
wing
skin. This stuff Polygone might be the ticket for that. If you've got a
really bad tank and you're already inside a tank and trying to clean it
up
to reseal, I don't think it would be real issue as to what it did to the
lap
joints as long as you rinse the heck out of it once you have things
clean.
The stuff stops working after 4 hours anyhow according to the product
info
and is organic based, unlike paint stripper that can continue to work for
ever when it gets in places you don't want it. In a tank that bad the
correct approach..... you'd have already drilled off the top skin. Lay
the
Polygone to the entire thing and then get it all cleaned up and rinsed.
Scotchbrite the hell out of every rib/bulkhead flange and mating skin
areas,
clean with acetone and then butter everything with Proseal coming off
every
flange and out onto the tank skin and filleting the unflanged rib sides.
With them filleted on one side to the skin, buttered to the skin on the
flange side and all the rivets coated over, it doesn't matter how good
the
seal is under the flange. Build your "bridges" to fill the stringer
cutouts
on the outboard solid rib and all your corners and let that tack and then
lay down the top skin with a nice rim of new Proseal dipping all the
rivets
as you go.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Michel" <n616pm@gmail.com>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2011 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Polygone - Proseal Polysulfide eater!
Product
Review

Wayne
Did this stuff seem to work its way into the lap joints also? Should
it
effect the integrity of any seal between the numerous pieces of tank
structure? I guess in your problem that wouldn't matter but in a clean
and
reseal it may.
Paul in Sunny North Florida

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 7:38 PM, Wayne G. O'Shea
<oifa@irishfield.on.ca>wrote:

on.

tank

with

hours

a

doesn't

the

needed

removes

for

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