The old "More MUST be better" theory !!!
The Rebel is ALREADY 'THE' most stable aircraft I've ever flown
- admittedly only 54 years of flying, so far ....
We regularly fly across the continent, going 2 hours or more
without touching the stick !! Anyone who thinks the Rebel is
hard to fly should just buy an Ercoupe .... ;-)
(Tricycle with interconnected rudder & ailerons - no rudder pedals ...
one big brake pedal ... you just steer it ! Flying - for the car driver !)
Please don't go re-designing the aircraft on a 'feeling' !!
I've seen nice kits ruined by somebody's "improvements" ...
.... and don't get me started on autopilots !! ;-) :-)
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson
De-fenestrate now ! Linux is the answer !
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On Friday 26 August 2011 09:58:36 jessejenks@hotmail.com wrote:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Other than the torque tube horn flexing...I would bet the Rebel flies
better with a bit more dihedral. Might make the yaw/roll coupling
stronger...make it easier to steer with your feet in cruise, and the
rudder( which is very effective) more useful at slow approach speeds as
the aileron become less positive...my opinionion only.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone
----- Reply message
From: "Wayne G. O'Shea" <oifa@irishfield.on.ca>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Subject: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
Date: Thu, Aug 25, 2011 10:22 pm
Roland... as Ken points out.. before you do this process again get that
fuselage solid in place. I do all of mine with the fuselage sitting on the
table (90 * to the table) with the fus weighted down and bolts into the
table thru the front gear attach points. Not something everyone can do in
the confines of their shop, but as Ken points out you can block it outside
as well. I then use basement jack posts, that I welded the bottom plate to
and screwed to a 3' x 3' piece of 3/4" plywood. You then use the jack
screws, on the jack posts, to raise/lower the wings to get the dihedral
exact and clamp/drill the struts.
As for strut material and new ends, as many have pointed out you can
probably machine a new end and keep the existing struts by transfering the
holes and adjusting the "fork" length accordingly to get what you need.
Failing that, you can get the strut material from Clair Sceli at Clamar
Floats as when it became too much of an issue for me to get Clair a dozen
struts at a time from MAM he had his own die made to extrude the profile.
He's just up the road from you...
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken" <klehman@albedo.net>
To: <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: And the saga continues...Rebel #56 Build
I used the same fuselage supports that I use for removing and servicing
the gear. Concrete blocks and wood or jacks under the cage. Actually I
like to put a 3 foot long wooden 2x3 on each side of the fuselage
stretching between the cage and the bulkhead that the rear drag strut
attaches to. Then I jack on each of those with the jacks an inch or two
behind the cage. Tail sits on something as well. As noted, the fuselage
will move a lot if you just leave it sitting on the wheels.
IMO one should not expect better than 0.2 degree repeatable accuracy out
of any electronic level that I've ever seen but that is good enough. I
would only use one level though. You've heard the saying that a man with
two watches never knows what time it is... If there is any doubt,
reverse the level (end for end) and see if the readings agree. Exacting
carpenters like to do that to confirm a level's accuracy. Frankly though
I don't think the dihedral is at all critical other than the control
horn attachments at the wing root will flex more if the dihedral is
excessive. Left and right roughly matching makes it a touch easier to
fly wings level I suppose ;)
Ken
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