It's way too thick to suck up like you would want to, so you're left
with trying to load it in with a spatula of some sort. If you haven't
worked with the stuff before....it is the stickiest substance on earth.
Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 07:42:06 -0700
From: rtpalmer@shaw.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Pro-Seal issues
Or, go to a farm supply (horse) and they have plastic syringes of
various sizes. (any Vet would have them)
BTW, you can freeze the mixed stuff for a couple of weeks and it will
still be good. On the larger jobs we put our mix in little plastic dose
cups (Dollar Store) put them in the freezer right away and pull them out
one at a time as the job progresses. Takes all of the anxiety out of the
cure time.
Bob.
On 6/17/2011 8:43 AM, Garry Wright wrote:Ron,
I think one way to get stuff in the hole is with an icing type squeeze
bottle from a kitchen store. A basting tool with a bulb on the end would
also work if it had a small enough tip.
Garry
On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Ron Shannon<rshannon@cruzcom.com> wrote:
The saga of my leaking right tank continues. For the worst remaining
rivet, neither Loctite 609 or Seal-All would do the trick when applied
with internal vacuum suction, so after lengthy cogitation, I decided
to try replacing the rivet. I drilled the rivet head off and gently
pushed the tail back up into the (springy) Pro-Seal inside, where it
remains. Am now intending to pump a bunch of Pro-Seal into the rivet
hole before replacing the tank rivet. I haven't worked with the
dreaded Pro-Seal before (didn't build the tanks) and have a couple
questions:
1) I have an (expensive but) unopened quart that has an expiration
date of 9/01/10. It's been stored in relatively cool temps. Do I dare
use it, or should I cough up the big bucks to get a fresh supply?
2) Any tips for measuring and mixing small batches? Per the can, I
gather the ratio is approx. 0.8 accelerator to 10 sealant, and per the
manual, it can be thinned with MEK if necessary.
3) My plan is to apply internal vacuum in the tank, and push as much
Pro-Seal as I can into the rivet hole from the outside using a small
suction cup. Any other ideas for methods to press it into a rivet
hole?
4) Per Wayne's earlier comments about not cracking the shop end, I'll
probably pull the new tank rivet by hand, after slobbering it with the
goop, of course.
I realize that pushing the rivet tail up into the existing Pro-Seal
carries the risk of opening more separation between sealant and metal,
but at this point it's really coming down to this tactic -- or cutting
football-sized access ports to redo the whole thing.
Ron
254R
PS - Sucking Loctite 609 into the seeps worked great on the left tank,
so it's still a viable method for others to start with.
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